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MS3X setup assistance needed

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I have built and installed an MS3X system on a L28 turbo motor in a 260Z.  I have it running, and idles, and am getting ready to get it out of the garage and drive it.  I configured the tune from scratch and it is very rough.  I am looking for someone with tuning experience to look over my tune and make suggestions or changes to get a safe, basic starting tune.  Below is the engine specs, and I have attached my current tune.  Thanks for any assistance!


F54 block, dished pistons
P79 head w/E30 cam - "B" stamp
ARP head studs
N42 non-EGR intake
440cc injectors
LSx coil-on-plug
T3/T4E 50 Trim with .63 AR (best that I can determine, Craigslist deal)
Intercooler - 11x17x2.5
60mm 240sx throttle body
280ZXT fuel pump & FPR
MS3X running sequential
DIY Auto CAS Disc in 280ZXT dist
Innovate LC2 AFR
2 1/2" to 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust
?? BOV
Vintage Air a/c
No idle control, yet
No boost control, yet
No oil cooler


A couple of items in particular I have questions about is that I have under basic settings, 1 squirt per cycle; I have seen other setups where this is configured for 2.  I also would like to use idle timing advance for warm up, and for when the A/C is on.


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Good thing you checked. Tune is VERY rough.  Your Spark Timing Table is dangerously high under boost, just for one example.  I do remote tuning sessions. I've helped several members here get a " safe " baseline tune going. I do charge for remote tuning, but I think you will find that my rates are very reasonable and you will learn at TON of information. I'll send you a PM.


In the meantime, don't run that Tune under boost for any reason. Firmware for ECU needs to be updated to latest version. You are currently running very old Firmware. With ECU connected to your laptop and Laptop connected to Internet, simply Auto Update the ECU Firmware . Go to the Menu Bar and choose Tools> Update/Install firmware. The Wizard will do the rest.


Note: Firmware for ECU is different from Tuner Studio software. 


Alos need to know if injectors are Hi Impedance or Low Impedance. If Low impedance, are you using the factory dropping resistors. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

We worked with Chickenman yesterday, he stared with a clean slate and tuning from scratch.  He got the basics dialed in but when we started the engine and let it run for just a short time, we ran into fueling issues and stopped there.  So I have some work to do on the fueling, get my AFR gauge installed in the car, and some new spark plugs, and try again.  :)


My current fuel setup is the stock 260Z tank and stock 5/16 fuel lines. An electric low-pressure pump pulls fuel from the tank and pumps into a converted (BC Broncos version) fuel filter canister acting as a sort of surge tank.  From there the stock 280Z (need to confirm part number for specific type pump) electric pump pulls from the canister and pumps to the fuel rail with the stock FPR.


We found that fuel pressure was dropping the longer the engine ran running the AFR way lean.  Research on the filter shows it as a 10 micron, which was basically starving the high pressure pump.  So I will start with removing the low pressure pump and canister filter arrangement and replace it with a 100 micron inline filter and verify I have proper pressure (37 psi at the rail) before trying again.


Richard (Chickenman) is indeed very knowledgeable on the ways of MS3, and L28s; thank you for sharing it.

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Travis, I've sent you an E-mail with some info on pre-filters. You can still use that Wix 33281 as a canister style filter post pump before the injectors if you like.  You still need a fine filter ( 10-20 Microns ) ahead of the injectors, but after the fuel pump.


Once we get the Fuel Pump starvation problem fixed, it should be smooth sailing.... 


BTW, any one using those Fram G-3  filters as a pre-pump EFI  filter ( As suggested in AZ Car articles ) should throw them out. They are a 15 to 20 microns and will strangle the high pressure EFI fuel pump. You should be using a coarse 100 -120 Micron Stainless Steel filter as a fuel pump pre-filter

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