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How to remove a head with ARP studs

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This is a warning for newbs trying to remove a head with ARP studs:


Remove the studs first using an allan wrench and then the head. Otherwise the studs will scrape the head and you will get a nice pile of aluminum shavings in bores, oil gallary or coolant passage. Its also very hard to remove the head with studs in place.


Also dont drop stuff into the coolant passages, very interesting exercise to get them out...


(I should write a datsun for dummies book, you have no idea...)


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13 hours ago, Tony D said:

Did you feel that resistance on your head on installation?
I've taken mine on and off for tech inspection I can't count the times and not had this issue.
Was the head warped from overheating, possibly?


Hmm...so you are saying it should just lift off easily?


I had a shop inspect the head, I would assume they checked it. 


Now you made me nervous...





I am pretty sure the cylinder head shop inspected it for straightness, could the block be slightly warped? I have less trust in the machine shop doing the block than the cylinder head guy.


Also the head went on just fine, I then tried to remove it directly after and that is when I had problems.  (I did a mockup install to check everything).


I also tried to remove it myself, maybe it would have worked with a helper. I could lift of the head halfway but as soon as the head got a little tilted it got stuck on the studs.

Edited by turbogrill

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THERE we have the answer. You're fine, you just have to lift it level... if you tilt, it will bind.
I've never pulled the studs to remove the head, it kind of defeats the purpose of having them there in the first place! LOL

Oh, I got a photo for this comment regarding a helper...  Let me get my phone and see if I can attach it... mowhahahaha!


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This is how you lift a head off with a helper.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Note assistant was present to photodocument the process.


This really should be put in the FAQ, the pictures make it so much clearer, huh?



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