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240z L28et Overheating


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Good Question,

 

I do not have ac, but was considering it as the prior owner had everything in it besides the compressor. To me, it most likely will hit the fan. Which pulley position does the ac run on in my setup? If its the small front one, I highly doubt it will clear. If its the second one the belt might squeeze by, but I don't know about the actual compressor mounted up. If that was the case you might want a slim single fan I don't know. I plan on putting ac in the car before the summer, but I don't know right now.

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I have a 280z and I know there is a height issue in the difference between the radiators, but I'm not sure if there is any other difference. 

 

As for A/C, it normally runs off the middle pulley on a L28et.  I had an unknown 16" fan in there before that was 3.5" thick and ran into clearance issues with the tensioner pulley when recently installing A/C.  Now I have a SPAL fan that is ~2.5" thick and have ~7/8" of clearance.  I have a Champion 3-row radiator that measures 2.75" at the top, but the core is inset from the edge of the end tank by about 3/8" and my fan is just flat up against the core (no shroud.)

 

*edit*

 

Just looked, and if you have a Champion 4-row for your 240z, you should have ~.3" less clearance than I do.  

Edited by Namor
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On 2/13/2018 at 6:02 AM, Namor said:

You don't have AC though, right?  How thick are the altima fans at the motor?  I had a fan that was 3.5" thick at the motor and had to go to a thinner one because it interfered with my AC pulley.  


It looks like it clears an AC pulley, but it seems like it might interfere with the belt / compressor. Hard to tell from the pics.

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One downside that I noticed is the huge amp draw. Normally I would not see this as a big issue, but its changing my afr as its really grabbing amps. I have a 60 amp alternator, but damn.

It draws upwards of 35 amps when on. I might switch to half power instead and use a switch for the full power.

 

Just an update.

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Shane... we may have to alter the Battery Voltage correction to keep your AFR's more consistent. This is where a big 80 or 90 Amp small frame Alternator has an advantage. An  90 Amp Maxima alternator will crank out 51 amps at 1,000 RPM. The old 70 Amp IR 280Z and ZX alternators can't do that.  60 Amps just won't cut it with Electric Fans and EFI. 

 

Most newer style alternators ( since the mid to late 80's ) are a lot more efficient and really pump out the Amps at low RPM's.  I absolutely wouldn't consider anything less than 80 amps with EFI and decent electric fans ( 2,500 CFM plus ) . 

 

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