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gmorrone1214

Building MS2 V3 Board

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1 hour ago, HuD 91gt said:

I just looked at your toothed wheel settings.  Why on earth do you have it set as 387 degrees before TDC?

 

As per chickenman using the method to set inital timing to 10 deg using fixed timing and a timing light I had to go to 387 to get to tooth angle to 10 deg.  Did this all last year and had the car running with these setting running 10lbs of boost (on that setup with high output single coil).  As I stated the only thing changed was the ignition output. 

 

I mean is 387 bad?

 

I will verify the timing tomorrow. I read somewhere that I may need a different type of timing light to wasted spark, is that true?

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I only have experience with my old unit, but I suspect 387 would be the same as 27 degrees. (360 degrees of rotation). I’ve never heard of a tooth angle that large.  Check your timing. Something seems off.

 

If your timing checks out ok.  Try tooth angle at 27 degrees, and see if it stays the same.  More for my own knowledge then anything else.

 

 

 

Also, I see you have it setup as a toothed wheel. Is that the correct setting using the VR distributor?   I’m focusing my attention on the timing settings as, if the spark output is working appropriately with each channel, it’s all about the timing. Start at the basics.  

 

 

 

 

Edited by HuD 91gt

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I just compared my last MS2 tune with yours.  I used three logic coil outputs using a 60-2 toothed wheel.  If you compare our tunes, our settings are quite a bit different.  EG Sequenced batch fire on, on yours off on mine, wasted spark vs wasted COP etc.  it's been far too long since I messed with my MS to remember everything correctly.  Ill load mine up,  check out my settings in the compare tune section and try them out.

CurrentTune.msq

Edited by HuD 91gt

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9 hours ago, HuD 91gt said:

I just compared my last MS2 tune with yours.  I used three logic coil outputs using a 60-2 toothed wheel.  If you compare our tunes, our settings are quite a bit different.  EG Sequenced batch fire on, on yours off on mine, wasted spark vs wasted COP etc.  it's been far too long since I messed with my MS to remember everything correctly.  Ill load mine up,  check out my settings in the compare tune section and try them out.

CurrentTune.msq 116.59 kB · 1 download

 

Problem Solved!! 

 

It was the timing.  Went back and checked the timing, set tooth angle to 0 and car was at TDC 0 Deg.  To get it to 10deg I now have a tooth angle of exactly 220.  

 

Turned over and started instantly! Man, am I relieved, thanks for all the help from everyone! 

 

Weird thing is the car was running on the previous tooth angle with no issues at all which is strange.....

 

Well now time to start tuning for boost and pray I do not blow the engine 😁

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On 9/2/2019 at 7:57 AM, supernova_6969 said:

Sounds stupid and basic, but have you checked basic timing?

 

are you certain your injectors are giving enough (or not too much) gas?  I forget if you have a O2 sensor.  although, if it's not burning everything uip, the readings wouldn't be accurate.  

 

s

 

 

HA stupid and basic you say....well it was that simple.  As stated above, its just crazy that the car was running perfect on the previous tooth angle which I set at 10deg  with a 387 tooth angle with single high output coil setup....

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1 hour ago, HuD 91gt said:

Did you happen to pull the distributor shaft at any point? Glad you got it figured out.

 

Nope, haven't touched it since I installed the turbo distributor for mega-squirt last year and set the timing.  That's why I was mind blown, since I haven't messed with anything timing related. 

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Reviving an older thread, but doing some similar troubleshooting with the same setup (triggering single coil w/ BIP373) and having the same issues.
Initially built my board using the original (outdated / incorrect) instuctions from DIY.  Reworked to use the VR circuit, but still fighting with it.

Question:  nowhere in this original tread are mentions of the additional recommended connections for the L28ET DIY 12-1 trigger wheel on the DIY autotune site...
 

  • Solder a 470 ohm resistor onto a length of wire and cover with heat shrink tubing. Run this resistor-on-a-wire from the 5 volt terminal in the proto area to SPR1 
  • Connect a 0.1 uF capacitor from JS10 to SG or the proto area ground.

 

Are these connections typically not utilized?

Edited by tomr240zap

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