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tomr240zap

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About tomr240zap

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  • Birthday 01/16/1980

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    Near: Wausau, Wisconsin, United States

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  1. Hey peeps. I'm NOT affiliated with this gentleman, but anyone looking for great TECH articles and build projects specific to the S30 Datsuns should check out Aaron Neubauer from "Built on Purpose". https://m.youtube.com/user/Neubs260 He's got a boatload of great tech videos from SU carb tuning to vintage 240z gauge modifications and everything in between. His information may be a bit basic for those with tons of experience working on these old Datsuns, but I've found his channels and website super helpful so just speading the knowledge! Cheers! -Tom
  2. Some time back in my engine build I ordered new set of "440cc Bosch Injectors" from Arizona Z Car Skip forward in time about 5 years and I'm in the process of tuning my (240z) L28et swap with MS2 (V3.57). Using PWM (30%) as the injectors are square in the middle of the low-z range at ~2.8-3.0 ohms resistance. All other critical settings per Megasquirt "starting point" recommendations. The car idles with some tweaking of parameters, but AFR is way out of sorts and i'm at a point in my troubleshooting where i'm beginning to question the validity of this flow claim... In trying to ID these injectors, the only numbers I can see on the injector bodies are "751" and "927". These numbers don't match any low-impedance injectors that i can find in the Bosch fuel injector catalog. The only Bosch injectors that fall into this resistance range is the 0280150834 and 0280150835 (EV1) which only flow ~350ish. Next step was to "massage" the 'required fuel' value in tuner studio to match what I need, but would like to first confirm my theory. I have an email in to Arizona Z-car but haven't received a response. Does anyone else have experience with these AZC injectors or can attest to the 440cc claim? Thanks! -Tom
  3. This is unfortunate, but I totally understand. Was planning on shooting you a msg once I'm ready, but will need to find another route. Best wishes, put some miles on that 280 and enjoy your retirement!!
  4. A while back I had vowed to build and install this ems solely through diligent research on the forums, youtube presentations (sloppy mechanics vid are particularly good btw) and deductive problem solving. A couple months later and here we are; still troubleshooting and hoping to sponge some insight from the datsun hive mind. THE ISSUE: I am not able to register a tach signal in tuner studio (w/ stim) utilizing the VR conditioner circuit. I had initially built the board utilizing the HALL circuit and WAS able to register a tach signal, however I changed this over to VR upon reviewing feedback on this forum. I have set (and adjusted) the R56 trimmer resistor (when ‘trimmed’ all the way, it’s registering ~.7V when measuring from top of R54 – I’ve increased this with no luck). There is no signal data when utilizing the trigger / composite logger feature in tuner studio Tach signal from the jimstim has been tested, tach jumper [on the stim] reflects VR circuit. 12V pullup jumpers installed. I've tried varied dip switche configurations on the stim to no avail. Currently set to base EDIS/Distributor. All recommended testing has passed per the msextra buildup instructions EXCEPT THE FOLLOWING: I am reading NO VOLTAGE on +5V terminal in the prototype area and BOOT terminals (should be 5V?) I suspect this is the result of some hardware issues, but can't seem to nail it down. I‘m running 3.4.2 Firmware 12V pullup w/ 1k 1/4w resistor is installed on PIN 24 (under the hood - not on the board) Board utilizes the BIP373 add on – used to drive [1] ignition coil directly via PIN 36. Setup on the car is as follows (although I don’t believe it’s relevant to the issue at hand) L28ET swap in a 1973 240z 82 ZXT distributor with DIY autotune 12-1 trigger wheel (has been properly phased per instructions on the forum) 440cc bosch-style Low-Z injectors Photos of the board, bay and msq files are linked below. Humbling swallowing my pride as I ask for some feedback. Thanks in advance! -t tomzapper240 baseline.msq
  5. Reviving an older thread, but doing some similar troubleshooting with the same setup (triggering single coil w/ BIP373) and having the same issues. Initially built my board using the original (outdated / incorrect) instuctions from DIY. Reworked to use the VR circuit, but still fighting with it. Question: nowhere in this original tread are mentions of the additional recommended connections for the L28ET DIY 12-1 trigger wheel on the DIY autotune site... Solder a 470 ohm resistor onto a length of wire and cover with heat shrink tubing. Run this resistor-on-a-wire from the 5 volt terminal in the proto area to SPR1 Connect a 0.1 uF capacitor from JS10 to SG or the proto area ground. Are these connections typically not utilized?
  6. Thanks! ...and yeah, heat deflection is probably the main reason Nissan went to webbing on the later intakes, but lots of people here have run them on the l28et without problems. Going to a shorter 'pallnet style' rail would maybe help as well. Final pass was 600grit wet, then mothers mag polish applied with an electric drill pad thing. Still need to plug weld whats left of the holes and touch up.
  7. Looks good! ...for future peeps wanting to tackle this project, I found one of these guys a great time saver in getting out the casting texture. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-bandfile-belt-sander-92158.html Just finished mine up a few weeks ago. You're right, it's a lot of work. Thankfully, I work cheap.
  8. Perfect. Thanks for the link, Miles! Will take the hack saw approach and get this thing back together.
  9. So i'm working on installing new ES poly bushings in my 240z and after reading a few online walkthroughs, figured i had it covered... Upon drilling/burning out the old bushing centers and installing the new bushings and metal bolt sleeves, i'm noticing that the old moustache bar bushing does not have a rolled over flange on both ends as i've seen on all other photos / tuitorials. I'm working with a rolled flange on one side and a straight lip on the other end that extends out almost half and inch or so. This is not permitting the two bushing halves to seat up against each other as well as not giving me enought thread on my stud to even get the nut/washer started upon installation. My initial thoughts were that i'll have to hack / grind this flange off, however i thought I had better check with someone before doing something irreversible... is this standard procedure for a moustache bushing install???
  10. Thanks for confirming, Tony! Yeah, i had already used up the adjustment travel in both the distributor post and slotted plate. Will shift it a tooth and retry.
  11. Hello, gents! I'm wondering if i can get a bit of help from the professionals... I'm having a bit of trouble getting the timing set after installing a head gasket & timing chain on my L24 240z (points). With the dizzy turned all the way one way, it's still too advanced. I've tried rotating the plug wires one position and turning the distributor to the furthest position the opposite way, and it's too retarded. Essentially, my timing needs to be set right in the middle where i can't get to [adjustment-wise]. The only thing i can think of is dropping the oil pump and rotating the 'spindle/gear' that rides on the crank one tooth one way or another... Am i on the right track or is there something i'm overlooking? Thanks! -Tom
  12. the right size shower door roller/wheel works perfect for a replacement roller/bearing for the 240z window regulators and are available in the fasteners aisle of most good hardware stores.
  13. While on the subject, has anyone custom fab'ed a shroud for the AZC radiator? I've thought about trying a 'universal' shroud, but in my opinion 'universal' often might as well be substituted for 'junk'.
  14. I'm sure you can postpone vehicle deterioration (via frequent washes and meticulous detailing) but if you're driving any vehicle year-round in salt conditions it'll rust eventually (usually from the inside - out!)
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