walkerbk Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Does anyone know how to disasimble these? I have tried everything that I know of, wd40, heat, soaking in paint thinner... I can't get the cone out that goes to the front in order to get the plunger out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 year, make, model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkerbk Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 Well I got it... After a full day of heating and working at it, I figured it out. I tried going at it with compressed air but that had no effect. My next to last Idea was to attack it with the grease gun. Napa has 10x1.00mm grease zerks (part number 715-2008) that I was able to mount on the ends. after attaching the grease gun to it and pumping it a few times, the plunger shifted. After that, I applied the blow torch and continued to pump with the grease gun until the end popped out sending burnt grease everywhere. it is now going to soak in the cleaner overnight again and tomorrow, I will clean up the bore and hopefully replace the seals. 77, DATSUN!!! (for real, make???), 280z 2+2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkerbk Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Got everything put back together and am happy that after owning the car for 6 years, the red brake light has finally gone out. Zx brake master 2+2 stock booster No prop valve S12+8 vented (multi size pistons) calipers in the front 240sx calipers in the back I like the red up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutantZ Posted May 10, 2022 Share Posted May 10, 2022 I know this thread is a little old, but where did you get the rebuild seals for this? I thought it was NLA. I have a Wilwood combo prop valve I was going to use since I thought you couldn't get this anymore. Anyone know if those seals are still available somewhere. I looked here and google'd but never saw anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkerbk Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 If I'm not mistaken I went to napa with the seals in hand and found some that fit tight. I would suspect you could also order replacements from McMaster that would work perfectly. I will look back through my notes on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) Walkerbk: Please post If you are able come up with a fix. I ended up removing my brake switch and using a three-way connector to connect the two two front brake lines. Edited July 7, 2022 by Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 See Post #10 in the attached thread from ClassicZCars: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/45461-parts-for-oem-np-valve-and-brake-indicator-switch-unit/?_fromLogin=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkerbk Posted August 1, 2022 Author Share Posted August 1, 2022 I went back and looked. The only O-rings I bought at the time was the Dorman O-ring kit of like 10 different sizes. I assume I matched up the sizes as close as I could get. I know that's probably not what you wanted to hear but that's all I can think of. Make sure its the epdm type rubber as the other stuff will melt away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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