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mutantZ

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Everything posted by mutantZ

  1. Back from the dead. Here is some info on a stripper on Oregon. http://www.metaldipping.com/california.php#
  2. Has anyone tried this for the undercarriage? About to start scraping but this sound infinitely easier at getting the rubber undercoating off. https://www.facebook.com/SanoBlast/videos/2140022546129643/
  3. Anyone have this? The hydraulic lift feature has me intrigued. KW's high end stuff is pretty great.
  4. I see it's a high demand item. Trash bin it is! 😄
  5. What is a complete front to rear (including dash wiring) early 74 260z worth? Not included are the switch gear, tail and head light sections. Fusible link still intact. Fuse box and all the relays seem to be in good knick, I dont have the flasher relays anymore. I didn't cut anything when I removed it.
  6. I know this thread is a little old, but where did you get the rebuild seals for this? I thought it was NLA. I have a Wilwood combo prop valve I was going to use since I thought you couldn't get this anymore. Anyone know if those seals are still available somewhere. I looked here and google'd but never saw anything.
  7. If you are looking for a p90a there is one on ebay right now https://www.ebay.com/itm/144492508682?hash=item21a46cb60a:g:lpAAAOSwye1iTzCE
  8. Ive been following your build in instagram, your car is probably 20x's more serious than mine will be used. I have to admit a lot of what im doing is probably cosmetic, you know it *could* be functional though 😂. I will most likely just do the bolt in brace give what you are saying about what those bars tie into. I think I may do a plate on the firewall to spread the load a little better. The real question I have is how much does your cat charge for labor
  9. I was looking at this in terms of a bolt in brace, I prob could gusset it a bit before install. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p66/Front_Strut_Brace.html In terms of a weld in brace, is this what you were talking about? I notice most peoples braces are welded offset from each other on the firewall, is there a reason for that? I may try a panel replacement for the master since theres essentially nothing on my car at the moment, but it would most likely be overkill for my driving. I'm mostly street, but I am a pretty hardcore bench racer 😁
  10. I am welding a brace under the fender. I was wondering if the strut tower brace that ties back to the firewall would be enough to reduce flex there. I could weld in braces tying it back, but I like the idea of it being removeable in the event i want to clean.
  11. My car is about to go onto a rotisserie and I am going to be doing some repair and moderate stitch welding on the easy stuff. I was thinking "while I am at it" until I came across this part. I'm not sure if I will need to brace the area around the master, but everything is apart so... Did you brace yours for your build? If its not a concern, I will prob just sand and paint it. I'll do a track day here and there, but its 98% a street car.
  12. Anyone have any thoughts on this? It would be infinitely easier than getting all the seam fill from that panel out and weld bracing it. https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p77/Brake_Master_Cylinder_Brace.html
  13. Thanks toolman, is the bottom part of the tube a plastic cover? I'm sure most modern sourced columns should be collapsible but I wanted to make sure. I was looking to see if there was a mechanism like this inside.
  14. I have been looking around for a used beverly throatless shear for awhile now, but i came across this. I'm wondering if this tool would be better in general. I'm looking to do some panel repair as well as some general metal fab unrelated to the car. Anyone with experience on this? Sooner or later I'll get that plasma cutter 😁 https://www.kett-tool.com/products/AN2000
  15. Would magnesium wheels be worth the risk in weight drop? I think they are about 1-2 pounds down on aluminum. https://www.vintageeng.com/magnesium-wheels/
  16. Came across this and I was wondering if anyone went this extreme on our car.
  17. Finally getting rid of parts that I bought, then changed my mind on, then replaced with something similar. 🙄 Price does not include shipping. All these parts (except the axles) were mounted but have zero mileage on them so here goes: 1. Z-therapy rebuilt SU's. SOLD 2. E-brake bracket, spot calipers, and cable for Arizona Zcar wilwood rear brakes from first WOZA group buy. Including new Wilwood prop valve. $450 Backet was trimmed so you don't need to pull the hub to get them on/off. Picture just for ref of it mounted, only items listed are for sale. 3. Arizona Z Car rear caliper bracket $100 Lovingly modded by JohnC 😄 4. Techno Toy Tuning Bump Spacers $70 These were never mounted 5. Stock 300zx CV axle shafts SOLD 2. 3. 4.
  18. Great write up! Does that new steering shaft have a collapsible column? I can't really tell from the pictures. I was on the fence about getting this for that reason.
  19. Thanks for the ideas. I'll check out the vent tubes. I'm about to put my car up on a rotisserie so I'll be able to look around the frame rails too. I followed your build for awhile, what part of Oahu are in? I grew up there and my first car was a 510. The salt air there isn't kind to Datsuns!
  20. Next phase after my hardlines will be rewiring my car. Where are people hiding their harness? Are you running it inside the engine bay frame rails? I have a similar drivetrain to this car and I would love for it to be this sano. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/DSC00774.jpg
  21. I bet the VR isn't the cheapest motor to rebuild. I still prefer the sound of a smaller displacement OHC motor, but it's hard to argue against the bang for the buck the LS gives.
  22. These days, a VR38 is looking like a pretty good option compared to a RB build prices. http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/10/dimmack-datsun-gtz-build/
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