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rb25/26 rear sump custom oil pans??


BeastioBoi

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On 8/12/2018 at 1:06 PM, Jethoncho said:

Good question ZT-R, I haven’t mocked it up in the chassis yet.  To be continued...

Hey man have you started on the interior flanges/baffles/whatever yet? I think I'm going to try and get started this week. I've been out for a few weeks after a dirt bike wreck so now I can finally start doing more physical stuff and I think I'm going to start here!

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Hello,

 

I got a little sidetracked - started a little body restoration on the car (fitted a new left rear quarter).  I did make a template for a new baffle/windage tray.  I’m away till Friday  in Europe for work, I’ll get the new tray made up and installed when I return.  

 

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5 hours ago, Jethoncho said:

Hello,

 

I got a little sidetracked - started a little body restoration on the car (fitted a new left rear quarter).  I did make a template for a new baffle/windage tray.  I’m away till Friday  in Europe for work, I’ll get the new tray made up and installed when I return.  

 

 

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Dang that's coming along nicely though! That looks like some quality repair work right there! Keep me updated on the oil pan for sure though, I am interested to see that in action.

Edited by Jboogsthethug
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3 hours ago, Jethoncho said:

Great info, I am likely going to recreate the windage tray in the original style just reversed to account for the crank rotation and new location of modified oil pickup.  I don’t plan on racing so I think I can get away without a specially designed hi capacity oil pan. 

good to know. All of this is really confusing to me ha. I mean, if I don;t have the windage tray perfect then will My engine blow up, do you know?

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The short answer is; as long as your oil pickup can remain submerged in oil then, no your not going to blow it up.  The windage tray is designed to keep the oil supply in the sump and aid in its return to the sump.  Most of the info in the links you referenced have to do with race cars or cars subjected to extreme loads.  Since my car will be a nice restomod and note intended for drifting or track use there is absolutely no reason to build such an elaborate pan.  I’m no expert but I know many cars that do road rallies or other track events and they have stock engines...they do blow engines due to oil starvation.  Hope this is of some help...

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  • 3 months later...
On 8/7/2018 at 7:07 PM, Jethoncho said:

Okay, so I have mode some progress, thanks to Jboogs I was ready to start welding on a pan that at minimum wouldn't have worked and at worst might have starved my engine and blew it up.  I originally cut the flange off and started to get ready to weld it back on to reverse the sump, I have since added a 1 3/4" filler to the right side of the pan and tacked the sump in place.  This gives the bottom of the sump a 1 or 2 degree tilt toward the drain plug side of the sump when installed on the engine (assuming a 13 degree tilt of the engine toward the driver's (left) side.  

 

Try not to be too critical of my TIG skills, its a work in progress as are my welding abilities.

 

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So I threw in the towel on my first attempt at modifying my oil pan to a rear sump.  I didn’t like the way it was going...I decided to start over so I bought a new front sump pan.  

 

Here is my frankenpan for my RB25 (attempt number 2)  I converted it to a rear sump.  First, I sliced off the mounting flange and reversed it.  This required quite a bit of additional mods as the shape isn’t exactly the same. Then once this was done the sump had to be addressed since the engine sits in the car at approximately 12 degrees tilt to the left. This meant the sump bottom would now tilt 24 degrees...I sliced off the sump which again was no where near the same shape when reversed. It was necessary to graft in a couple of pieces from a donor pan that I had to account for the different shape on the new front of the sump.  I still have to address the windage tray but I intend to just remake it so that should be fairly straight forward. The primer shows the areas that received modifications. I guess I could have gone out and bought a pan from one of the vendors that make them but I wanted something that looks OEM and I enjoy the challenge.

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5 minutes ago, Jboogsthethug said:

It doesn't even look like you flipped it, awesome job! I'm impressed for sure! Also, where did you get that huge aluminum chunk?

Thanks man, the second attempt was definitely yielded a better result plus I had the original pan to cannibalize. The slap of aluminum was scrounged from the shop that maintains the aircraft I fly. It was so billet material they had laying around and the were good enough to give it to me. I drilled and tapped it so I could bolt the pan to it to limit warping during the welding of the flange. Worked great!  

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If photobucket didn't destroy my rb25 build thread, you'd see we arrived at the exact same mods (Circa Aug 2013). mine however stayed looking like your original version. Haha.

To account for the cant of the engine, I simply cut off at an angle. Windage tray I put back in as is, but bent all the louvers the opposite direction. Sump, I wish I had some fancier measuring tools. Once the welds were ground and painted, it wasn't so bad. I may remove it and add some trap doors and wings for extra capacity. All this RB oil woes makes me nervous (though I know it is mostly overblown). 

Nice work on your 2nd attempt. Looks amazing.

 

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5 hours ago, mtnickel said:

If photobucket didn't destroy my rb25 build thread, you'd see we arrived at the exact same mods (Circa Aug 2013). mine however stayed looking like your original version. Haha.

To account for the cant of the engine, I simply cut off at an angle. Windage tray I put back in as is, but bent all the louvers the opposite direction. Sump, I wish I had some fancier measuring tools. Once the welds were ground and painted, it wasn't so bad. I may remove it and add some trap doors and wings for extra capacity. All this RB oil woes makes me nervous (though I know it is mostly overblown). 

Nice work on your 2nd attempt. Looks amazing.

 

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Did you have any issue with leaks? I’m trying to think of a good method of leak checking my welds.

Edited by Jethoncho
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I'd almost rather not say...🤭

once i welded them all up and ground them down i mixed up a batch of JB weld and applied it over all the welds. lol. redneck, but effective. If you were really OCD, you could silicone your pan down to a flat surface and then pressure test it through the drain plug. Spritz it with soapy water and look for bubbles. 

Instead of JB weld, epoxy primer would probably seal as well.

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4 hours ago, mtnickel said:

If you were really OCD, you could silicone your pan down to a flat surface and then pressure test it through the drain plug.

I like this idea, since I already have a slab of billet aluminum I bolted it down to to prevent warpage i’ll Just bolt it down to that with a pan gasket and pressurize it as you suggested.  Great idea, thanks!

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  • 1 year later...

I have changed the direction of my build so it now includes a RB26.  This considered, I did a rear sump mod to the front sump AWD cast pan. I sliced off the differential, then cut just the sump section and moved it aft, then filled the front with some 5052 sheet aluminum.  

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