Tadghsotal Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 I am just finishing up my swap of a fs5w71c transmission into my s130. What I am trying to figure out is what to do with the rear mount on it. There is about 2 cm difference between the mount of fs5w71b and the fs5w71c (the c is longer). I was thinking about using longer bolts through the brackets on the body and hanging the cross member from the back of the brackets instead of in between. That will move the mount location on the car 5 cm back. I will then use an adapter plate between the transmission and mount to move it 3 cm back further to match the mount point on the car. I was just wondering what others have done to resolve this. I have read places that it should just mount up to the s130, but I might have gotten a slightly different version of the fs5w71c than other people, because it is definitely 2 cm difference between the two transmissions. Just for completeness, the s130 was originally an NA car, but has since been converted to turbo using the fs5w71b that came with the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamo3 Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 (edited) 30mm to move back. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/transmountmodjpg_Thumbnail1.jpg-269047 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113452-240sx-trans-swap-into-280z-measurements-and-install-pix/?hl=240sx http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html You can find the answer in this forum. Edited June 19, 2019 by tamo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tadghsotal Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 Hey thanks for the links I greatly appreciate it. I didn't realize the 280z was so similar to the 280zx on the transmission mount or I would have searched a bit harder. I think I am still going to go with my plan so I don't have to cut and/or weld the cross-member. If you install the mount the same direction that it was installed on fs5w71b there is 3 cm difference between the two and that gives me enough clearance to put bolts on top of my adapter plate. I didn't even notice that the neutral switch would hit the mounts in the tunnel and now I have a plug on order to delete it (I was just going to leave it in unused). I will post some pics after I get it done this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 Mounting ears like that are designed to be loaded in shear, so I'd keep an eye on what the added bending moments do to the mounts over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 On 6/19/2019 at 8:15 AM, Tadghsotal said: I was thinking about using longer bolts through the brackets on the body and hanging the cross member from the back of the brackets instead of in between. That will move the mount location on the car 5 cm back. I will then use an adapter plate between the transmission and mount to move it 3 cm back further to match the mount point on the car. I was just wondering what others have done to resolve this. I built a similar mount in preparation for using a 71C swap in a 280Z. Nissan refers to the transmission mount as the rear engine mount. It's not working alone, it's working in conjunction with the two front mounts, so doesn't really see the motions and loads that you think it might. Forward and backward as you brake and accelerate, and up and down over bumps. But no significant twisting. I cut a slot in a spare mount crossmember and shimmed out the space to move it back and use the original mounting ears. I felt comfortable with it based on the loads it would see in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tadghsotal Posted June 21, 2019 Author Share Posted June 21, 2019 Right, I saw your setup in the links tamo3 posted and it looked pretty good and I am seriously considering that route (since my welding skills are less than ideal). I work in an aircraft research facility at the University of Iowa and had some engineers look at my drawings for my idea, they said it should work as long as I put spacers in between the mounting ears in tunnel to keep it rigid and transfer shear through the bolts without introducing horizontal rotation along the front to back line of the car. Since I have the stuff already made up for my adapter plate and spacers, I am going to try the no cut method first. I will watch it for any deformation in the adapter plate and the mounting ears over the first couple of months, if I see any signs of trouble I will change it to what you did. What I am most worried about it up and down deformation of the adapter plate, most of the weight of the mount is on the transmission case, but a little is cantilevered out past it with my setup. How is your setup holding up? I assume it is pretty solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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