Jump to content
HybridZ

so you wanna swap an rb eng? here ya go


stony

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest blownd15b

This is some realy good info. I was thinking to myself MANY months ago about weather or not anyone has done this... and well my questions are now answered.

 

Stony, what typed of times did you run in your Zcar right after you got the motor in your car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Guest Hudson's Hawk

Thanks for the great write up on the RB engine. I've seen a few at MSA in LA and was curious to know more about them. I'm planning on doing an engine swap over the next few months and for the hp you states it can put out, it may be an easier swap then a V8. I think I'll need to find someone who has one in there car and go for a ride.

 

Anymore info where to read up on the engine, or any websites to visit for the nitty gritty on the ginny...would be wonderful..

 

Thanks,

Hudson' Hawk...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the very first run at the track was a 12.3 at 114 mph

 

by the end of the day i was in the low 11s after some more tuning.

 

the only thing that changed atfter the injector change and turnng the booste up was i started breaking rearend stuff and when i didnt break my MPH was up around 127mph.

 

my old 60 was 1.7 now its in the 2.0+ range. i have had a couple of 1.9s but anything harder then that it breaks something ;<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
Guest Macrobiote

Thank You! I've been looking for info on the RB swap for almosts 6 months now. I ran across this company that sold RB25s for about 3 grand and I want to be sure this shop is credible before I drop 3 large. Anyone who knows anything about them andy info is greatly appreciated http://www.ardperformance.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...

So why does the stock oil system not work for the RB26DETT in a Z? Due to steering rack clearance issues?

 

Do you think the mods you made (talking to stony) would make the engine more suseptable to drying up during hard accelleration and braking? It might not be an issue until you start hitting barelly streetable numbers though.

 

I plan to go with a RB26DETT for my future project purelly for the wow factor. To do a 2jz would be almost as much, and your initial motor can be hard to find. Most wreaked supras around have already had the motor taken and such. There are less than 12k supras in the USA... that's not many to jump on. I have a huge smile on my face though thanks to the new lexus IS300 having the 2jz non turbo. The more blocks the merrier.

 

V8s are cool (i'm a huge muscle car fan. favorite car always having been the A/C cobra) but the sound of a V8 coming from a Z just doesn't seem right for a road racing car (like i'm going for) and if just seems right to stay with nissan.

 

Love all the work you've done stony in keeping it all documented. Job well done m/ o.o m/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sterring crank not an issue. its the sterring rack and engine frame member that is the problem. the oil pan sump would hit it in the front sump configuration.

 

There should not be any problems with going to a rear sump as long as the pan and pickup that are fabricated are done right. many others in japan have done this same type of mode for other swaps and not had any issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest StreetVelocityGTR

in all this are you all talking about s30 bodys if so what about z31s who here has one with a swap in it (rb26) do the same things apply i know that the oil pan does have to be changed but does everything else the same to

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just been reading through these posts and have a few questions,

 

If i want to install an RB25/26/30 engine into my Zed

all i would have to do is (this is just to get the engine in place),

 

Get the sump&pickup from an Rb20Det (from a Z31) and then install that onto my RB 25/26/30 engine - now i have a rear mounted sump, so the sump wont hit the cross-member,

 

Then i either,

Use the stock RB motor mounts (but this sits the engine kinda high and forward - so not probably the best position)

or

Make them myself,

or

Buy them pre-maid, there is a mob in Australia who sells mounts for an RB30 to Zed - these mounts would still work with Rb25's & Rb26's as they are still the same family of engine, so externally they are still pretty much the same bloc? ie.........engine mounts still in the same place?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yesterday I picked up a Sylvia viscous LSD diff, including the entire rear subframe, which I paid $200 for on Ebay. I stole it from him and he never even flinched, never told me what a great deal I got; not a word.

 

So, for those of you in the Northwest, his name is Garrett Hoboy, Advantage Imports, Anacortes, WA, (360)542-1272, and he's got JDM front clips in stock (Skylines, Sylvias, Supras) as well as diffs, transes, seats, wheels, etc. Prices seemed reasonable to me, around $2500 for a complete front Skyline clip with an RB20, or a Sylvia with an SR20. A pair of Prelude seats for $100 which need some brackets seems like a good price...as above, I think he's the kind of person to buy from.

 

I'm always looking for an interesting OHC powerplant to Hybridize a Z but I'm not willing to invest a lot of time into oil pan sump modifications. I just want to drop in something and spend my time tuning it instead of deluding myself that it's a good fit. The RB20's that I saw looked a lot like the L6 from the oil pan view but I can't seem to reconcile the power/wt of an RB20 vs that of an L28ET when the cost and effort is factored in; I'd rather build a turbo 4 cyl to drop in for the sake of handling. From what I've read within this post, it sounds like the RB30 may be a taller-blocked spin-off of the RB20 in order to preserve rod/stroke in the larger displacement engine, so I'm going to search it out to see what the RB30 has to offer. DAW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Parts numbers if anyone is interested:

 

11110 - Oil sump

15050 - Oil pickup

15200G - Oil pickup O Ring

11232 - RH Mount

11233 - LH Mount

11220 - Rubber mounting (LH and RH)

 

These are only half the part numbers, the second half is missing which designates the model application.

 

If anyone has these could you please share.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Zedboy

Stony,

I have a question for you which i hope you can answer.

I am about to begin the same swap as you in my 75 260z. Mine is a 2+2, and therefore has a longer wheelbase and I guess driveshaft as well. You mentioned in your initial posting that for optimal handling, I'd need to move the engine back and down, and shorten the driveshaft (in a 2 seater).

I'm still at the research stage at this point and I'm just wondering if you or anyone else out there has any idea how this particular configuration would work in a 2+2?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if it has a longer wheel base as you said i would guess it would need a longer shaft. I would say compare the stock 2 seater vs 4 seat drive shaft. if it is around a inch longer you could move the motor back to make the shaft work or make a longer driveshaft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest nolafool

i read thru most the post and i still have a couple questions and if i missed it i'm sorry its a bit late here

 

i waiting 2 blow my l-28 in my 80-280 coupe before i do a swap .. i was wondering if the swap is much diffrent than yours and if so what would be different.

 

i havent decided bewteen a 25 or 26 i am not on tight budget but i cant spend a whole alot.. i'm not really looking for HP i will be mostly doing autox and drift events..

 

Also would it matter what model it came out 32 33 ex...

 

any help would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure about your choice in cars for drifting but if your gonna do Auto X i would say go sr20, or something like that. I have seen the later modle Zs with the RB26 swap so it can be done. Not sure on the bolt on stuff though. And if you can't spend that much then stay away from the rb26. you need to much other chassis suspension and drivetrain mods to support it if your going to race it.

 

I gave up on getting the stock drivetrain into the 10s and the best i could do was low 11s. car is getting a backhalve now :twak:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...