stony Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 PLEASE the questions are killin me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest blownd15b Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 This is some realy good info. I was thinking to myself MANY months ago about weather or not anyone has done this... and well my questions are now answered. Stony, what typed of times did you run in your Zcar right after you got the motor in your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hudson's Hawk Posted September 26, 2003 Share Posted September 26, 2003 Thanks for the great write up on the RB engine. I've seen a few at MSA in LA and was curious to know more about them. I'm planning on doing an engine swap over the next few months and for the hp you states it can put out, it may be an easier swap then a V8. I think I'll need to find someone who has one in there car and go for a ride. Anymore info where to read up on the engine, or any websites to visit for the nitty gritty on the ginny...would be wonderful.. Thanks, Hudson' Hawk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 26, 2003 Author Share Posted September 26, 2003 the very first run at the track was a 12.3 at 114 mph by the end of the day i was in the low 11s after some more tuning. the only thing that changed atfter the injector change and turnng the booste up was i started breaking rearend stuff and when i didnt break my MPH was up around 127mph. my old 60 was 1.7 now its in the 2.0+ range. i have had a couple of 1.9s but anything harder then that it breaks something ;< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Macrobiote Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 Thank You! I've been looking for info on the RB swap for almosts 6 months now. I ran across this company that sold RB25s for about 3 grand and I want to be sure this shop is credible before I drop 3 large. Anyone who knows anything about them andy info is greatly appreciated http://www.ardperformance.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akeizm Posted June 3, 2004 Share Posted June 3, 2004 Just wondering, you replace the fuel pump with a better one. But what about the fuel lines? Do they needed to be upgraded to bigger ones? Or anymore/less lines needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted June 3, 2004 Author Share Posted June 3, 2004 i used all the stock metal lines for the stock motor that made 400rwhp Anything higher i would recommend replaceing the stock -6 metal lines with -8 oe -10 braided lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyline240z Posted June 5, 2004 Share Posted June 5, 2004 Hi hudson, hawk I sold a bule rb26 power to a guy in San Diego, It was a the 2003 MSA show. Maybe you can get intouch with him and go for a ride. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DatsunATX Posted June 5, 2004 Share Posted June 5, 2004 http://www.flashoptions.com These Guys Have Any JDM engine you want and they have resonable pricing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted December 18, 2004 Author Share Posted December 18, 2004 can we get this moved to the new rb section :> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 So why does the stock oil system not work for the RB26DETT in a Z? Due to steering rack clearance issues? Do you think the mods you made (talking to stony) would make the engine more suseptable to drying up during hard accelleration and braking? It might not be an issue until you start hitting barelly streetable numbers though. I plan to go with a RB26DETT for my future project purelly for the wow factor. To do a 2jz would be almost as much, and your initial motor can be hard to find. Most wreaked supras around have already had the motor taken and such. There are less than 12k supras in the USA... that's not many to jump on. I have a huge smile on my face though thanks to the new lexus IS300 having the 2jz non turbo. The more blocks the merrier. V8s are cool (i'm a huge muscle car fan. favorite car always having been the A/C cobra) but the sound of a V8 coming from a Z just doesn't seem right for a road racing car (like i'm going for) and if just seems right to stay with nissan. Love all the work you've done stony in keeping it all documented. Job well done m/ o.o m/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 28, 2005 Author Share Posted January 28, 2005 Sterring crank not an issue. its the sterring rack and engine frame member that is the problem. the oil pan sump would hit it in the front sump configuration. There should not be any problems with going to a rear sump as long as the pan and pickup that are fabricated are done right. many others in japan have done this same type of mode for other swaps and not had any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest StreetVelocityGTR Posted January 29, 2005 Share Posted January 29, 2005 in all this are you all talking about s30 bodys if so what about z31s who here has one with a swap in it (rb26) do the same things apply i know that the oil pan does have to be changed but does everything else the same to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 Just been reading through these posts and have a few questions, If i want to install an RB25/26/30 engine into my Zed all i would have to do is (this is just to get the engine in place), Get the sump&pickup from an Rb20Det (from a Z31) and then install that onto my RB 25/26/30 engine - now i have a rear mounted sump, so the sump wont hit the cross-member, Then i either, Use the stock RB motor mounts (but this sits the engine kinda high and forward - so not probably the best position) or Make them myself, or Buy them pre-maid, there is a mob in Australia who sells mounts for an RB30 to Zed - these mounts would still work with Rb25's & Rb26's as they are still the same family of engine, so externally they are still pretty much the same bloc? ie.........engine mounts still in the same place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 Yesterday I picked up a Sylvia viscous LSD diff, including the entire rear subframe, which I paid $200 for on Ebay. I stole it from him and he never even flinched, never told me what a great deal I got; not a word. So, for those of you in the Northwest, his name is Garrett Hoboy, Advantage Imports, Anacortes, WA, (360)542-1272, and he's got JDM front clips in stock (Skylines, Sylvias, Supras) as well as diffs, transes, seats, wheels, etc. Prices seemed reasonable to me, around $2500 for a complete front Skyline clip with an RB20, or a Sylvia with an SR20. A pair of Prelude seats for $100 which need some brackets seems like a good price...as above, I think he's the kind of person to buy from. I'm always looking for an interesting OHC powerplant to Hybridize a Z but I'm not willing to invest a lot of time into oil pan sump modifications. I just want to drop in something and spend my time tuning it instead of deluding myself that it's a good fit. The RB20's that I saw looked a lot like the L6 from the oil pan view but I can't seem to reconcile the power/wt of an RB20 vs that of an L28ET when the cost and effort is factored in; I'd rather build a turbo 4 cyl to drop in for the sake of handling. From what I've read within this post, it sounds like the RB30 may be a taller-blocked spin-off of the RB20 in order to preserve rod/stroke in the larger displacement engine, so I'm going to search it out to see what the RB30 has to offer. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drunkenmaster Posted March 12, 2005 Share Posted March 12, 2005 Parts numbers if anyone is interested: 11110 - Oil sump 15050 - Oil pickup 15200G - Oil pickup O Ring 11232 - RH Mount 11233 - LH Mount 11220 - Rubber mounting (LH and RH) These are only half the part numbers, the second half is missing which designates the model application. If anyone has these could you please share. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zedboy Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Stony, I have a question for you which i hope you can answer. I am about to begin the same swap as you in my 75 260z. Mine is a 2+2, and therefore has a longer wheelbase and I guess driveshaft as well. You mentioned in your initial posting that for optimal handling, I'd need to move the engine back and down, and shorten the driveshaft (in a 2 seater). I'm still at the research stage at this point and I'm just wondering if you or anyone else out there has any idea how this particular configuration would work in a 2+2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 15, 2005 Author Share Posted March 15, 2005 if it has a longer wheel base as you said i would guess it would need a longer shaft. I would say compare the stock 2 seater vs 4 seat drive shaft. if it is around a inch longer you could move the motor back to make the shaft work or make a longer driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nolafool Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 i read thru most the post and i still have a couple questions and if i missed it i'm sorry its a bit late here i waiting 2 blow my l-28 in my 80-280 coupe before i do a swap .. i was wondering if the swap is much diffrent than yours and if so what would be different. i havent decided bewteen a 25 or 26 i am not on tight budget but i cant spend a whole alot.. i'm not really looking for HP i will be mostly doing autox and drift events.. Also would it matter what model it came out 32 33 ex... any help would be greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 20, 2005 Author Share Posted March 20, 2005 Not sure about your choice in cars for drifting but if your gonna do Auto X i would say go sr20, or something like that. I have seen the later modle Zs with the RB26 swap so it can be done. Not sure on the bolt on stuff though. And if you can't spend that much then stay away from the rb26. you need to much other chassis suspension and drivetrain mods to support it if your going to race it. I gave up on getting the stock drivetrain into the 10s and the best i could do was low 11s. car is getting a backhalve now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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