JMortensen Posted November 5, 2020 Share Posted November 5, 2020 Going to require a different filler tube though. If the 260 filler tube is available it would probably go in easier, I'm guessing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisted46 Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 On 11/5/2020 at 11:53 AM, heyitsrama said: I guess a tig welder really should be the next thing i look at getting, it seems to be a 'for life' tool. @Twisted46 is it possible to get some closer picture of your t3 mount in the rear? I need to finish the firewall plate and make something that holds the 2 rods that come from the center of the trunk. For the trunk it looks like the way t3 does it is they want you to drill a hole and throw a nut on from under the car, seems you'd be drilling right above the differential. I think i also should have used a studded rod end that will hold the rods that go down to the trunk rather than the rod eye..... a learning experience.... @JMortensen > so I'd always have fuel leaking out around the door from tight left handers Maybe this is why newer cars have the little trap doors that you have to put the gas nozzle into to fill up. 🤔 I really dont want to do a fueltank swaps, id rather modify the original tank.. plus trunk space what if i want to take this car camping? It looks like megasquirt can work on both l28 and ls series motors, maybe getting this L26 running on an EFI setup will get me closer to where i want to be with usability (its got a N42 head), and later down the line a ls motor will be an "easier" modification. @heyitsrama I will certainly get some pictures of the firewall mount but It won't be apples to apples. I cut my OE hood latch out and welded in the plate your get with the JTR swap kit. There were already holes in that plate which allowed me to bolt the T3 mount up without issue. I can't comment on the rear brace as I welded my own up. And yes a welder is such a great thing to have 21 hours ago, heyitsrama said: Funny I was just looking at the same thing, can probably build something very similar that slips inside the tube and allows the flap to rotate downward, but weld in a tab to limit the flow up the fill neck. I think todays project will be inspecting the fillneck for more cracks. woah woah woah. look at this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-260Z-280z-9-74-6-76-COUPE-FILLER-NECK-SUPERCLEAN/143555459622?hash=item216c927a26:g:4g4AAOSwNsdebXBL This looks like there is a little flapper on the 74.5+ cars. That is a great find! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 For a start listen to Jon, he knows his shit. Fuel flap leaks are fairly common but they are fixable so it's just a matter of identifying the source. The stock tank is fine unless you want to fit a rear diffuser there, stock gives a lower C of G. Just use a low pressure pump from the tank into a swirl pot and another pump from there to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 (edited) I see what you mean with the triangulated stop in the front, it make a world of difference of feel in the front of the car. I feel like there is ambiguity with the rear of the car, on some hairpin turns I feel that the rear is squatting and I can’t tell if it’s going to get close to sliding (slid the turn after the straight at thunder hill west CW. 2 times today.) Progressive eibach springs on genetic KYB struts, 3.36 non-lsd. On the plus side got my PR time down to 1:45, still feel slow at shit. >.> maybe need more track time. Edited December 7, 2020 by heyitsrama Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.