Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Newark, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

2620 profile views

heyitsrama's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Hello, I'm looking for a coilover option for a street/track build. My current setup is a KYB strut with Eibach progressive springs, stock sway bars F/R, poly bushings, and F/R strut tower triangulation bars... it leaves something to be desired in the turns, it feels as if the car needs time to settle on turn entry. I'm working with a early 260z and have a spare 280z suspension setup to use as a core. I've been considering `8610-1437race` struts as they show up in threads as a tried and tested solution, for spring rates it looks like the minimum spring rate is around 250lbs in, based on these threads it seems like people are running upper 100's -> 300's so 225-250 seems like its a good spot, but I'm unsure if the struts will dampen effectively with such a low spring rate. From what I understand I would start having to look at more chassis strengthening the higher i go into spring rates because of chassis flex/wear. Does this sound about right? Anyone have any recommendations with the struts we have available in 2022?
  2. @JagoBlitz vintageconnections makes a very high quality product, i would recommend them over cheaper connectors you might find online. Here in the USA the 74' + model cars don't use many of the connectors, the wire connectors that are used on 260z-280z cars changed to be more weather proof. I noticed on my 73' the headlight connectors at the body harness use a similar style to what vintageconnections offers, my 74' has the more weatherproof ones. I think they are just 6.3mm/2.8mm open barrel connectors. You should get 2 additional tools, a pin removal tool (a hard tool steel is worth getting here) and a crimp-die tool, just get it it makes the wires 10000% better, with less gremlins. Hella makes some quality connectors too, checkout their catalog and see if you can find something that works. If you can a part # would be nice to share. Check vintage connections, I just order loose connectors from them and use them as needed. Make sure you order some cylinder shaped ones too, you'll need one for the thermostat sender, oil sender?, reverse sensors. I told myself if I was ever gonna do my harness a 4th time I'll upgrade to delphi connectors.
  3. http://www.speedhunters.com/2021/10/k-powered-party-front-party-back/ Saw this project online then was thinking about this Z, any progress? @jessejames
  4. Just a heads up on the u-joints, i ended up ruining a pair of half-shafts after trying to replace the u-joints myself. IIRC the balance of the shaft is done by the different thickness c-clips that are used to lock the ujoint to shaft. IMO if you need to replace the u-joints consider having a shop replace them with some Splicer ujoints as the shop should have the different thickness c-clips to balance the shafts after. I think the driveshaft does not have replaceable ujoints for the 280z models, in that case a upgrade/replacement should be sourced.
  5. I've been eyeballing k24's as a potential swap if my current motor goes out the door. Seems like a great platform. Why the dry sump? Just because you can? or does it help with clearance?
  6. I wonder if the frame will flex on load and cause the steering intermediate shaft to bind….
  7. @socorob Where there a lot of vibrations in the steering coupler that you can feel by removing the rubber/poly puck that is in the OEM setup?
  8. Its hard to find the regulators, my regular had a bent arm that was causing it to roll at an angle, bending the arm straight addressed this issue, it might be worth removing it and posting some pictures.
  9. I used a Ultra-Power PS153 that i got from rockauto.com, it was $3.33 no complaints, the gauge works great for the past 4 years. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59905-71-240z-oil-pressure-sending-unit-not-working/?tab=comments#comment-547841 I don't see them on sale on RockAuto anymore, i see the BnN one for $15 bucks.
  10. I see what you mean with the triangulated stop in the front, it make a world of difference of feel in the front of the car. I feel like there is ambiguity with the rear of the car, on some hairpin turns I feel that the rear is squatting and I can’t tell if it’s going to get close to sliding (slid the turn after the straight at thunder hill west CW. 2 times today.) Progressive eibach springs on genetic KYB struts, 3.36 non-lsd. On the plus side got my PR time down to 1:45, still feel slow at shit. >.> maybe need more track time.
  11. howdy, do you have the metal fuel fill neck, and the rubber section that goes to the tank? pics? 😬
  12. Funny I was just looking at the same thing, can probably build something very similar that slips inside the tube and allows the flap to rotate downward, but weld in a tab to limit the flow up the fill neck. I think todays project will be inspecting the fillneck for more cracks. woah woah woah. look at this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-260Z-280z-9-74-6-76-COUPE-FILLER-NECK-SUPERCLEAN/143555459622?hash=item216c927a26:g:4g4AAOSwNsdebXBL This looks like there is a little flapper on the 74.5+ cars.
  13. I guess a tig welder really should be the next thing i look at getting, it seems to be a 'for life' tool. @Twisted46 is it possible to get some closer picture of your t3 mount in the rear? I need to finish the firewall plate and make something that holds the 2 rods that come from the center of the trunk. For the trunk it looks like the way t3 does it is they want you to drill a hole and throw a nut on from under the car, seems you'd be drilling right above the differential. I think i also should have used a studded rod end that will hold the rods that go down to the trunk rather than the rod eye..... a learning experience.... @JMortensen > so I'd always have fuel leaking out around the door from tight left handers Maybe this is why newer cars have the little trap doors that you have to put the gas nozzle into to fill up. 🤔 I really dont want to do a fueltank swaps, id rather modify the original tank.. plus trunk space what if i want to take this car camping? It looks like megasquirt can work on both l28 and ls series motors, maybe getting this L26 running on an EFI setup will get me closer to where i want to be with usability (its got a N42 head), and later down the line a ls motor will be an "easier" modification.
  14. Any idea what the seatbelt bracket is going to look like? Great welding by the way, very clean.
  15. You can remove the screw in the backside of the arm, remove the moon/sun switch on the underside, then flip the mirror upside down in the arm, it works well. I’m 6’4” it’s the only way I can see.
  • Create New...