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Everything posted by heyitsrama

  1. two of them in the front are for the speedometer cable and the hook latch cable, big one might be ECU...
  2. Just a heads up for people reading this; there have been scams on classiczcars where a newly joined member messages someone looking to buy something. They say shit like, “go email my buddy at something@foo.com”. There have been accounts messaging me on here as well, with the same message format. So be careful!
  3. Looking for a z31 steering rack, old lady down the road has a leak in hers. Located in Bay Area!
  4. Hello, I'm looking for a coilover option for a street/track build. My current setup is a KYB strut with Eibach progressive springs, stock sway bars F/R, poly bushings, and F/R strut tower triangulation bars... it leaves something to be desired in the turns, it feels as if the car needs time to settle on turn entry. I'm working with a early 260z and have a spare 280z suspension setup to use as a core. I've been considering `8610-1437race` struts as they show up in threads as a tried and tested solution, for spring rates it looks like the minimum spring rate is around 250lbs in, based on these threads it seems like people are running upper 100's -> 300's so 225-250 seems like its a good spot, but I'm unsure if the struts will dampen effectively with such a low spring rate. From what I understand I would start having to look at more chassis strengthening the higher i go into spring rates because of chassis flex/wear. Does this sound about right? Anyone have any recommendations with the struts we have available in 2022?
  5. @JagoBlitz vintageconnections makes a very high quality product, i would recommend them over cheaper connectors you might find online. Here in the USA the 74' + model cars don't use many of the connectors, the wire connectors that are used on 260z-280z cars changed to be more weather proof. I noticed on my 73' the headlight connectors at the body harness use a similar style to what vintageconnections offers, my 74' has the more weatherproof ones. I think they are just 6.3mm/2.8mm open barrel connectors. You should get 2 additional tools, a pin removal tool (a hard tool steel is worth getting here) and a crimp-die tool, just get it it makes the wires 10000% better, with less gremlins. Hella makes some quality connectors too, checkout their catalog and see if you can find something that works. If you can a part # would be nice to share. Check vintage connections, I just order loose connectors from them and use them as needed. Make sure you order some cylinder shaped ones too, you'll need one for the thermostat sender, oil sender?, reverse sensors. I told myself if I was ever gonna do my harness a 4th time I'll upgrade to delphi connectors.
  6. http://www.speedhunters.com/2021/10/k-powered-party-front-party-back/ Saw this project online then was thinking about this Z, any progress? @jessejames
  7. Just a heads up on the u-joints, i ended up ruining a pair of half-shafts after trying to replace the u-joints myself. IIRC the balance of the shaft is done by the different thickness c-clips that are used to lock the ujoint to shaft. IMO if you need to replace the u-joints consider having a shop replace them with some Splicer ujoints as the shop should have the different thickness c-clips to balance the shafts after. I think the driveshaft does not have replaceable ujoints for the 280z models, in that case a upgrade/replacement should be sourced.
  8. I've been eyeballing k24's as a potential swap if my current motor goes out the door. Seems like a great platform. Why the dry sump? Just because you can? or does it help with clearance?
  9. I wonder if the frame will flex on load and cause the steering intermediate shaft to bind….
  10. @socorob Where there a lot of vibrations in the steering coupler that you can feel by removing the rubber/poly puck that is in the OEM setup?
  11. Its hard to find the regulators, my regular had a bent arm that was causing it to roll at an angle, bending the arm straight addressed this issue, it might be worth removing it and posting some pictures.
  12. I used a Ultra-Power PS153 that i got from rockauto.com, it was $3.33 no complaints, the gauge works great for the past 4 years. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59905-71-240z-oil-pressure-sending-unit-not-working/?tab=comments#comment-547841 I don't see them on sale on RockAuto anymore, i see the BnN one for $15 bucks.
  13. I see what you mean with the triangulated stop in the front, it make a world of difference of feel in the front of the car. I feel like there is ambiguity with the rear of the car, on some hairpin turns I feel that the rear is squatting and I can’t tell if it’s going to get close to sliding (slid the turn after the straight at thunder hill west CW. 2 times today.) Progressive eibach springs on genetic KYB struts, 3.36 non-lsd. On the plus side got my PR time down to 1:45, still feel slow at shit. >.> maybe need more track time.
  14. howdy, do you have the metal fuel fill neck, and the rubber section that goes to the tank? pics? 😬
  15. Funny I was just looking at the same thing, can probably build something very similar that slips inside the tube and allows the flap to rotate downward, but weld in a tab to limit the flow up the fill neck. I think todays project will be inspecting the fillneck for more cracks. woah woah woah. look at this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-260Z-280z-9-74-6-76-COUPE-FILLER-NECK-SUPERCLEAN/143555459622?hash=item216c927a26:g:4g4AAOSwNsdebXBL This looks like there is a little flapper on the 74.5+ cars.
  16. I guess a tig welder really should be the next thing i look at getting, it seems to be a 'for life' tool. @Twisted46 is it possible to get some closer picture of your t3 mount in the rear? I need to finish the firewall plate and make something that holds the 2 rods that come from the center of the trunk. For the trunk it looks like the way t3 does it is they want you to drill a hole and throw a nut on from under the car, seems you'd be drilling right above the differential. I think i also should have used a studded rod end that will hold the rods that go down to the trunk rather than the rod eye..... a learning experience.... @JMortensen > so I'd always have fuel leaking out around the door from tight left handers Maybe this is why newer cars have the little trap doors that you have to put the gas nozzle into to fill up. 🤔 I really dont want to do a fueltank swaps, id rather modify the original tank.. plus trunk space what if i want to take this car camping? It looks like megasquirt can work on both l28 and ls series motors, maybe getting this L26 running on an EFI setup will get me closer to where i want to be with usability (its got a N42 head), and later down the line a ls motor will be an "easier" modification.
  17. Any idea what the seatbelt bracket is going to look like? Great welding by the way, very clean.
  18. You can remove the screw in the backside of the arm, remove the moon/sun switch on the underside, then flip the mirror upside down in the arm, it works well. I’m 6’4” it’s the only way I can see.
  19. It might fit, there are wiring differences between the two.
  20. @jhm I noticed there was a steady leak when i filled up the tank and parked the car on the driveway, it was dripping from the middle of the body, between the body and the fuel tank, right below the license plate... But that was on a slant, when i was at the track i noticed it was dripping at the corner of the rear wheel well on the passenger side. i think the leak could be at the fill neck, perhaps on the inside where is enters the body hole for the fill? I was using a flashlight to shine light inside and see for a hole, did not spot anything. ill test out with the bent tabs, that's a great call. I had this shitty locking cap that offered no seal whatsoever, i shoved a towel followed by a latex glove to keep the fuel down, actually worked pretty well ha. I replaced all the hoses the last time i dropped the tank (excluding the fill), and retained all the stock evap tank, (although i dont have a smog pump or the charcoal canister hooked up). Perhaps this could contribute to the hesitation issue i was experiencing, i notice that this does occur when the track gets hot (later in the day, but i also might have low fuel, and can use a surge tank) @Twisted46 The whole day i was at the track, i was thinking i should go find a ls1/t56 and enjoy fuel economy + power when i need it on the track. I dont need 500 HP, stock ~300 is enough to take the kids to school, and not have to deal with the carbs. I think its an option im going to keep on the table, but i would certainly go back and do more chassis bracing to support the torque. I see that people are retaining stock tanks and using these fuel pump that a fill bag that lays into the OEM tank, because of the surface area of the foam bag (sock?) its able to continue to pull fuel even when the fuel is sloshing around. I think MZR is using this in their EFI Z's they are building in the UK, i was shitposting chatting in their comments on their instagram, and it seems that they don't used baffled tanks, they just use these types of fuel pumps.
  21. I ran into three issues in my last track event. 1. overall trust in the chassis, although the NCRCA helped with the turn in and significantly reduced the bump steer, the chassis still feels like it’s flexing a load. I think it’s time for a triangulated front chassis brace to help address this. 2. damn fueling issue, I realize that there is a leak in my system, I think it occurs at the fuel filer neck. I noticed fuel on the quarter panel, and coming out at the fill as well. I think the actually fill tube might need to be replaced. So can’t let the fuel get below 1/2 tank, can’t fill it past 3/4 😒. 3. hesitation at 3.4K rpm, occurs at ~1/2tank. I noticed this happens when the track gets hot. I was thinking it could be related to fueling, but I really have no idea what to look at here. Street driving the car runs great, and I was not able to replicate that issue on my drive home. On the plus side I got my lap times down from 1:54:00 to 1:48:16! 🥳 next track event Dec 6th, hopefully the rain holds back.
  22. @Derek was there a subaru junkyard you went through to get the 3.54? I was hoping to find a 3.9 LSD, been looking locally for a few months and cant find anyone parting out cars in the SF bay / Sacramento.
  23. @Twisted46 Thanks for the recommendation of the NCRCA, I'm very impressed with how much better the steering feels over bumps and within hard turns. It no longer feels like i have to fight the car in the corner. I have to weld my strut brace up, from what Jon also says there appears to be a lot of improvements to be had. ( and hopefully shaved time in the corners). October 12th is the next day, plenty of time to do some testing before then.
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