manninen Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 (edited) 3.45:1 168mm diameter ring gear blow up. usually its planetary which goes out. mine´s are 2.79:1 and 2.65:1 ratios. Wont´change to 188 cause 168 has been good, its lighter and less parasitic loss Edited February 11, 2020 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 What about using a newer aluminum case 188 diff? They use low drag hearings & less fluid to help with the parasitic losses as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 (edited) Havent heard whole aluminium case 188 but E46 E39 compact 188 is slightly lighter. Keski-korpi drifting team uses welded one on their drifter. Ripped of from subframe last season Edited February 12, 2020 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caperix Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 The aluminum case differential started with the f10 5 series. Looking deeper it is not a 188 but a 205al, but the seal kits all say 188/205 so output shafts and covers may be compatible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted March 9, 2020 Author Share Posted March 9, 2020 got this over month waiting, but snapped my arm today so maybe 2 month pause from everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 arm is getting better so i could file some holes. on frame those M10 which supposed to be 68mm spacing i got 67mm. i watercutted both spacing so i have to put them to frame and measure few things. maybe cannot perform that just yet. This part weights 1640g, mustache bar with bushings were 3.2kg. i dont know how much heavier this ends up when its finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 taking few measurement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 there any reason you didn't extend the bracket down in front of the mounting "ears" of the back of the diff down, so that you could mount the diff straight to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 drive shaft angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 I can´t stand car not being driveable and i need clean to my garage anyway. being still one arm man all i could do is to assemble old rear axle parts together. Car is on it´s wheels tomorrow. More upgrades maybe next winter Wonder if i have working abs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted May 25, 2020 Author Share Posted May 25, 2020 Did not pass MOT cause rear control arms, welded swaybar links were ok. But i have working ABS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Been driving now some. Added caster stiffened up steering feel but seems it follows these finnish inclined roads more. I have to swap stock swaybar links whats the difference with those. Went better direction with modern seatbelts and powerful brake booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) I believe that these bars made some difference, even with rear bar some noises had changes. changed factory rear arms back, car is now road legal for 2 years. rear toe changed from +2.5mm back to +4mm, car is much stable. but felt kind of better with +2.5mm toe. ABS light stays on, abs works with no error codes so im gonna reverse light using changeover relay, cant say whats going on. Edited June 9, 2020 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) I´ve had bit problem with wheels balancing. POS british custom rims which aint straight and tyres which seems to be as bad patch... Oh well, took my wheels to local shop who has road force machine. They did their thing and got all wheels under 6kg road force unit, i dont know is it low number or not but now i can drive over 85km/h. early this week did some trip, car does easily 750-800km between fuel fill-up Edited July 18, 2020 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted January 1, 2021 Author Share Posted January 1, 2021 (edited) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fg_g0yjzJD8 Noticed Team Boosted is swapping OM606 as well, and comments say some guy has swapped as well. i hope that OM648 rear sump fits, my dry sump has half the height of that thing and clearence is very small. Edited January 1, 2021 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 Today i changed 2.65 open diff, im opening my 2.79 limited slip to rebuild it. Car works great. Seems team boosted wrecked their diesel 240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted July 24, 2021 Author Share Posted July 24, 2021 (edited) this is been on my mind. At the moment im making oil pump mount more secure, for the future maybe relocate oil filter and modify my oilpan. Opened my differential, not too bad but needs new friction plates. Here´s some straight 6 turbo smokers for you guys Edited July 24, 2021 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 my brake bias is bit off, rear is too strong. now i have tilton valve for rear which does its job under heavy braking but doesnt do much on light braking. My rear calipers are ford 43mm, im gonna try mitsubishi 34mm and take pressure limiting away from rear line. with abs, pedal feels odd with limiting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) https://i.imgur.com/9acMc4A.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/HieVggC.jpg Mitsubishi pad is tight fit to ford disc but its there. Parking brake cable needs to be tightened and brake hose to be longer. Looks like quite easy swap. Edited February 16, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 rear brakes done, i really dont like brake pedal feel of 240z, i think opposed piston calipers on front does it, they need so much pedal travel. im thinking to try E36 316i calipers on front, it is single piston 54mm floating caliper. i dont know if it can be fitted on stock size disc, at least very ugly adapter is needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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