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240Z diesel


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Agree with Calz. I’n theory, the travel of the pistons is proportional to the pedal travel. Unless the rotor is warped forcing the pistons further away from the rotor. Il be honest, I don’t have enough first-hand experience to know if a single sided caliper makes a big difference but I would look to other solutions first if this is the only concern you have with the OEM calipers. Braided stainless brake hoses, bigger master cylinder, check rotor trueness, etc. 

 

PS: larger master will require less pedal travel but increase pedal pressure required. May not be noticeable with properly functioning brake booster. 

Edited by AydinZ71
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4 hours ago, calZ said:

If the pedal travel is too much, just upsize the master cylinder. 

I have to drive more now downsized rear brakes. Before it felt like rear already started to bite and front were still closing gap away from pads. Maybe 1" on front and 23.8mm to rear master would help. 

I have new rotors on front, zero wobble. That doesnt mean they are straight

Edited by manninen
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  • 1 month later...

Summer getting here, took it on drive after modifications and smaller rear brakes seems much better, braking on a corner rear stays stable.

these 185 width tyres doesnt have much grip on full abs braking but ride is nice for 240z.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

540_Tomason_tn1_mopo_1.jpg

 

https://xfelgi.pl/tomason-tn1-45x14-4x1143-et10

 

04308d4582b54bf882cfb9f327e56d4c.jpg.web

In finland we have mopedcars, one cylinder diesels so youngsters can drive them with moped driving licence.

 

Found mopedcar rims 4x114.3 et10, its direct fit to rear axle, front needs to turn lil bit larger.

 

but guys, 100€ for wheels which weight 4.5kg!!

 

that polish site says wheel is rated 580kg. hope its true.

 

100€ cheap price for own death

Edited by manninen
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rvXOjd4.jpg?1

these ride very nice, except 2 of these hankook tyre aint round. i dont have good luck with tyres. i need to stop ordering tyres online. i took couple full throttle runs, 185 tyre burns so easily, i had to tightened rear lug nuts after. 5 lug hubs might be good idea as well.

Edited by manninen
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  • 1 month later...

i did custom engine support bar today, i oil pan leaks that much i have to fix it. maybe i have to do new carrier for external oil pump too, real drysump would be nice as well but theres no room for those things.

 

Last week i was on vacation with Z, 640km, no issues.

Edited by manninen
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  • 1 month later...

https://i.imgur.com/zvTZsoE.jpg

as i have occasional steering wheel shimmying, im running stock bushing. i have full PU bushing kit.

Is this 100% safe way to try if shimmy comes from soft bushings?with stock bushings compression rod moves really nice, pu on fron rubber rear, pu bushing moves a bit on its place and makes some noise on rod moving.

 

whats your thoughts? im thinking just try lil bit harder rubber bushing on front, maybe some other brand oem bushing

Edited by manninen
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  • 2 months later...

https://i.imgur.com/zTNvmjO.jpg

replaced my flat steering wheel to deep one, ergonomy seems much better now.

 

https://i.imgur.com/1kzvThz.jpg

https://www.motec-wheels.de/images/motec/motorsport/produkte/MCRY/detail/MCRY-6516-weiss-schr.png

got cheap 215/60R15 tyres, im looking if used ET15 motec rims pop up for sale i might put those under Z

Edited by manninen
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  • 4 months later...

TVZJvZk.jpg

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lzTxKcZ.jpg

found cheap motec rims wheel weights with tyre 16.9kg (185R 14" 12.7kg)

bit tight clearence to spring plate but seems to be enough.

 

Big oil leak on pressure side of oil pan, unfortunately i have to do it again, maybe weld has cracked

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