calZ Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 If the pedal travel is too much, just upsize the master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AydinZ71 Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 (edited) Agree with Calz. I’n theory, the travel of the pistons is proportional to the pedal travel. Unless the rotor is warped forcing the pistons further away from the rotor. Il be honest, I don’t have enough first-hand experience to know if a single sided caliper makes a big difference but I would look to other solutions first if this is the only concern you have with the OEM calipers. Braided stainless brake hoses, bigger master cylinder, check rotor trueness, etc. PS: larger master will require less pedal travel but increase pedal pressure required. May not be noticeable with properly functioning brake booster. Edited March 21, 2022 by AydinZ71 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 (edited) 4 hours ago, calZ said: If the pedal travel is too much, just upsize the master cylinder. I have to drive more now downsized rear brakes. Before it felt like rear already started to bite and front were still closing gap away from pads. Maybe 1" on front and 23.8mm to rear master would help. I have new rotors on front, zero wobble. That doesnt mean they are straight Edited March 21, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 Summer getting here, took it on drive after modifications and smaller rear brakes seems much better, braking on a corner rear stays stable. these 185 width tyres doesnt have much grip on full abs braking but ride is nice for 240z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted June 7, 2022 Author Share Posted June 7, 2022 (edited) https://i.ytimg.com/vi/kyKNIlYgUjI/maxresdefault.jpg im so tempted to try these tyres, probably would ruin ride quality Edited June 7, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 (edited) https://xfelgi.pl/tomason-tn1-45x14-4x1143-et10 In finland we have mopedcars, one cylinder diesels so youngsters can drive them with moped driving licence. Found mopedcar rims 4x114.3 et10, its direct fit to rear axle, front needs to turn lil bit larger. but guys, 100€ for wheels which weight 4.5kg!! that polish site says wheel is rated 580kg. hope its true. 100€ cheap price for own death Edited July 3, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 (edited) these ride very nice, except 2 of these hankook tyre aint round. i dont have good luck with tyres. i need to stop ordering tyres online. i took couple full throttle runs, 185 tyre burns so easily, i had to tightened rear lug nuts after. 5 lug hubs might be good idea as well. Edited July 5, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted August 24, 2022 Author Share Posted August 24, 2022 (edited) i did custom engine support bar today, i oil pan leaks that much i have to fix it. maybe i have to do new carrier for external oil pump too, real drysump would be nice as well but theres no room for those things. Last week i was on vacation with Z, 640km, no issues. Edited August 24, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted September 26, 2022 Author Share Posted September 26, 2022 Here is my oil pump, this thing is heavy! i could get huge weight savings using aluminium oilpan and singlestage automotive pump, but this has support bearing and doesnt seems to care little higher rpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted September 30, 2022 Author Share Posted September 30, 2022 (edited) https://i.imgur.com/zvTZsoE.jpg as i have occasional steering wheel shimmying, im running stock bushing. i have full PU bushing kit. Is this 100% safe way to try if shimmy comes from soft bushings?with stock bushings compression rod moves really nice, pu on fron rubber rear, pu bushing moves a bit on its place and makes some noise on rod moving. whats your thoughts? im thinking just try lil bit harder rubber bushing on front, maybe some other brand oem bushing Edited September 30, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted December 28, 2022 Author Share Posted December 28, 2022 (edited) https://i.imgur.com/zTNvmjO.jpg replaced my flat steering wheel to deep one, ergonomy seems much better now. https://i.imgur.com/1kzvThz.jpg https://www.motec-wheels.de/images/motec/motorsport/produkte/MCRY/detail/MCRY-6516-weiss-schr.png got cheap 215/60R15 tyres, im looking if used ET15 motec rims pop up for sale i might put those under Z Edited December 28, 2022 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted May 5, 2023 Author Share Posted May 5, 2023 found cheap motec rims wheel weights with tyre 16.9kg (185R 14" 12.7kg) bit tight clearence to spring plate but seems to be enough. Big oil leak on pressure side of oil pan, unfortunately i have to do it again, maybe weld has cracked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted September 9, 2023 Author Share Posted September 9, 2023 (edited) https://i.imgur.com/YNeowqG.jpg yeah, cracked weld. pain to find! held 8bar of air but 4bar of oil leaked thru Edited September 9, 2023 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 (edited) https://i.imgur.com/lmqt4nR.jpeg oh dear, every other year i have to swap stock control arms for MOT. this time i fck it up, threaded nut went loose inside body from that bolt, anyone had to cut open body from inside to weld nut back in? and oil leak is still present Edited June 1 by manninen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 has anyone modify/delete this part of engine bay, i could need some space there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 You can remove the core support but you'll need to add the structure back for support. If you needed the top out of the way you could make a new core support angled out of the engine bay for clearance. If you have a thicker cooling stack this could be moved out for engine clearance. I've seen a few on race cars where this is removable to make engine changes easier. There's been more of the make the top part of the core support removeable to ease engine changes. The often fall into the turbo DOHC engine swaps if I recall directly. You can do a search here or in Google (or search engine of your choice) and see how people have made this modification. Hope that heklps, Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manninen Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 Old z's dash wiring aint that strong. I have relayed my headlights almost first thing after bought this car. I have usb charger/volt meter hard wired to lighter socket and driving on rain wiper and blower maxed dash voltage drops below 13volts. Today i kia swapped blower motor and did some measuring, stock blower draws 93watts and kia takes 180watts, theres not much change between 2 and 3 speeds. I think long term kia motor will melt fan switch my guess. Next thing im gonna re wire wipers and blower on their own relays. Original wiring has only couple lightbulbs to run, it can handle that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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