1977 280z LS3 Project

[Renny162]

Hello All,

I've been looking for a Datsun 280z for a few months now, and with my fingers crossed tomorrow might be the day. With that being said I'm unaware of actual condition and have only seen pictures. If it is purchased tomorrow I will be posting pictures as soon as possible to get a bit of feedback as this will be my first project car. From what I've seen it looks good though👍. My apologies ahead of time, I've never worked on a car so I'm very unfamiliar with things. ALL TIPS & CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM APPRECIATED.

 

The Goals

• LS3/T56 Swap - I plan to buy a total kit from Jegs. (https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/CPSLS376525T/10002/-1) my only concern is that it says Super magnum I had trouble finding that specifically on google/forums. So if I need something like this (https://www.jegs.com/i/McLeod/673/TUET11009/10002/-1) let me know.
• A/C - really hoping to be able to make this work with the swap as I do intend to daily the vehicle. Was able to find some people could make something over at Vintage Air work.
• Air Suspension - This has been another difficult area as it seems the only answer has been custom. I am hoping to be able to get an accuair CVT system to work.
• Rear End/Suspension - This is an area I do need some help in. what would be good enhancements/upgrades to the rear end and suspension? I know the air will just work as the coilovers but what else should be done to ensure a safe and somewhat comfortable ride around 500Whp?
• Aero/Bodykit - Rocket Bunny Pandem widebody
• Frame Reinforcement - Since I will be going for higher HP I plan to take precautionary measures and get the frame reinforced to hopefully prevent any bending if there are any kits or tips in this area much appreciated.
• Roll Cage - here in SF I was able to find someone to Fab/weld in
• Comfort/Bucket Seats - want the race look but still want to run a harness and be able to go for prolonged car rides without discomfort. Open to ALL suggestions! 😊
• Power Windows/Locks - Found a Kit here (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-4211) seems a few people managed to install without issue.
• Big Brake kit - not top priority as I'm learning I may not be able to run this setup with air or specific rims (more of a dream) A brake upgrade will be preformed nonetheless.

 

I'm sure that I missed so many things but I figure this is a good place to start and it hopefully gives everyone an idea of what i'm going for. I have some BIG goals for the interior but I need to make sure the car is in good running condition before I worry to much about all of that.

 

please point out anything that I missed out or may not be thinking of when getting into this swap. Just to help those who will say "too much for a first project" or "learn more before doing this" I will be working along side a certified mechanic while everything is being done to the vehicle😃. The budget is going to be $35,000 I understand a large portion will go to the engine but there isn't necessarily a limit just spending will slow down significantly after😅.

 

Hope to hear back from some people soon so I can start to get some better ideas on where to start this project.

Cheers!

 

 

 

[idahoskiguy]

Welcome to the asylum! Looks like you are about to jump into the deep end of the pool. Began my build last July when a 1974 260Z with a 350 SBC / 350 TH swap from back in the day was acquired.It was in storage for 33 years and currently taking care of the rusted floor boards and fenders but otherwise the body is sound. Looking for a 1998 -2002 Z28 for a LS1 / T56 donor.

 

Good luck and keep posting.

[wingwalker]

These projects take time, so if you are paying the mechanic, and insist on doing all you've outlined, I think labor will eat up all that budget and still not be done--with the parts to come on top of that.

 

I'm working on a 280Z with a 350 engine that someone had tried to drop into it (I've had to redo almost everything). I'm using a 2004R tranny (beefed up to handle a lot more horsepower than my engine will ever produce). I've had to refurbish the dash--they are all cracked, so expect that. I'm going to order a Vintage Air A/C this summer. I had looked for a car with the factory A/C, which mine has, but as I removed it, it was clear it would take a lot to bring it to life. I'm pretty sure the Vintage Air will be easier and probably no more expensive.

 

Body work and paint will also eat deeply into your budget if you have that done. I'm doing some of my own (I have experience). Just to put this in perspective, my last project was an Alfa Romeo roadster. It had solid rockers and floors and appeared to be rust-free, but I still found rust. And after I stripped it, I found two past fender-benders that had been repaired with way too little body work and way too much Bondo. Those had to be bumped out and required some small patch panels. I'm not fast, so it took forever. But a body shop would have insisted on new panels and then would have spent many, many hours prepping and fitting (expensive). I painted it with a former body-shop manager, and together we put 40 hours each into the prep, sanding, masking and painting. I intend to do much of that to my 280Z, and still expect to pay a good paint shop around $4K to fine-tune the prep and shoot it. I'll color-sand and buff it.

 

You haven't mentioned wiring, which will take time and will be expensive.

 

My free advice would be maintain your vision, but do the car in stages. First take car of all the rust you find--and there will be some. I found far more than I expected under the battery tray and had to replace a big hunk of the inner fender and the firewall. Before dropping the engine in, you might just take care of the dash (you almost have to remove it to install new A/C).

 

Then drop the engine and transmission in, upgrade the brakes and do the interior. Before dropping the engine in, you'll want to clean up and paint the engine compartment and do all engine wiring while you can get to everything. I'm thinking just that work would eat most of your budget, unless you do most of the work yourself--and for me, that's the fun of it.

 

Seats are a fun area. There are so many choices. Sparco  and Bride both make great seats--but you can spend anywhere from many hundreds to thousands on a pair. I had a good upholstery shop redo my stock seats. Cost was $750 for the pair--which is more than just using a kit--but they came out more modern-looking and very clean. Using the stock runners will save a pile of time and some money. 

 

That would get your car on the road. You'll then drive it and discover what you really want. It may be the body kit, and by then you may have the money for it (lots of body work to fit such a kit). You may want to go another way. But after driving it some, you'll know. Either way, you'll then face the expense of paint and any upgrades to the interior, suspension upgrades air bags and other fun stuff. And by driving it, you'll also know how much upgrade the rear end will need.

 

And you do want it on the road. My own project has gone on way too long (life gets in the way--have you budgeted for that?

 

So that's my free advice--worth every penny it cost you.

[rags]

It all depends on how deep your pockets are. I personally know of a 73 240 that has a 2300 maggie supercharged LS2/T56 that will be coming up for sale soon. The car was stripped of it's driveline to be repainted and checked over for any signs of cancer because a bubble was found on the bottom of one of the doors. Luckily, that was the only spot on the entire car. I know, hard to believe and I wouldn't have believed it either had I not seen it for myself. Anyway, the car is now being reassembled to be sold. It has almost everything you are looking for with the exception of a wide body kit and roll cage. Dyno sheet available to show over 500whp. It won't be cheap but would be a great start to what your overall goal is. if you want to know more about it, shoot me a PM.

 

Joe

[Renny162]

* UPDATE * 

    So I went to go check out the 1977 280Z this afternoon and all seemed well. a few rust spots, and a potential short in the harness causing the battery to die after about 5-6 hours. didn't seem too crazy. Unfortunately once I began to look under the car I noticed that the frame rail on the passenger side was rusted out and had a chunk about the size of a golf ball missing. when addressed he claimed it was once repaired when he "restored" the car previously. I wasn't too concerned about the smaller rust spots or floor board rust but I was forewarned about frame rails being a bit more serious. He wasn't going to budge from 7k, and I called 2 shops to get quotes on frame rail replacement welding. first quote was 8k second was 5k I'm no expert but id rather spend the money on a car in better condition and place the money elsewhere in the build. So unfortunately I had to walk away. 

 

Thankfully the hunt is not over and there is a 1975 280z that I intend to check out next Tuesday. (3/3/20). It will be a bit more expensive but should be in much better condition. Will post updates as soon as the time comes. Thank you to all that posted keep up the work on your builds and am looking forward to hearing more in the future.

 

@wingwalker Thank you so much for this reply. I was hoping someone would take the time and sort of break down a decent way to go about such a project. I will definitely take everything you said into consideration!  In regard to the mechanic, yes money will be exchanged but its more of a family friend who owns a shop so i'm trying to use the angle of his tool and the lift while we do these installs together. 

 

When you mention that 2004R trans is it rebuilt or are those generally built stronger stock? since the deal fell through today ill look into this transmission as well. That makes me glad to hear that your going with a vintage air unit. I've heard good things about the gen 2 mini mostly from people with larger engines, keep me up to date with that one!

 

The paint and body work I intend to take a bath, I've tried to figure ways to cut cost but the most ill be able to do is dampen the blow. most people say do as much prep work as possible and so that's what i'll do but unfortunately I have no experience and want the body done correct. I've seen some people on the forms talk about having it media blasted before they begin work but i'm not entirely sure which way would be my best approach as I intend to drive it and build it piece by piece. This will not be something stored in a garage for me to work on freely Every major part of the build will need to be coordinated with the shop to get things done in a timely manner.

 

Do I have a body shop repair the rust and spray a primer and then continue on the build? or should I wait until I have the engine/trans ready to drop in? As you mention the body kit will require a good portion of body work too so do I wait on that? In other words What would be the ideal approach. I feel this is something that should be done first (body work) but i'm conflicted because I will need to do more work in the future or could potentially mess up the works that's already done. Sorry if this area was a bit difficult to understand I've been having trouble trying to figure how i'm going to go about this.

 

Good call on the Wiring.. this is something I definitely overlooked. How did you go about it? custom wire harness? or were you able to find some type of plug and play?

 

Thank you for being realistic and staying positive even when my build may seem a bit over budget. I intend to do just that. piece by piece, first big purchase will be buying the vehicle then saving for engine/trans, getting this dropped in, then the suspension, rear end, frame reinforcement, body work/paint, re connect everything, rims tires, then begin on interior.

 

"That would get your car on the road. You'll then drive it and discover what you really want" great way to look at it. Ill definitely keep this in mind as I go along with the build as i'm sure there will be things I realize I want but don't need.

 

Thanks for the advice and good luck with your build! 

[JoeK]

If your in California, be sure to get a 1975 or older S30. Otherwise you’ll have to deal with smog inspections. While there may be ways around that, it can get old. 
 

Always start with the best car you can afford.