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New member, new project. Friends call me the Russian Concussion. Starting a new project that has been in the planning and dream phase for decades.

 

Single turbo 2JZ GTE VVTI swap with R154 in a 280z. Hopefully a 2+2 like my grandpa had. Will be starting with the engine build and continue waiting patiently for the right chassis to come my way. Planning on a full restoration as well with race ready suspension and chassis modifications. I know this wont be cheap and I plan on taking my sweet time.

 

Engine should be in the garage in the next few weeks. Engine will be hot tanked, decked and honed by my local shop here Q&E machining. Torque plate just arrived. Titan Main Caps and ARP main studs are shipped. Considering bolting in a girdle while Im at it. I know its complete overkill for my 500hp target but it would be nice if I ever want something more.

 

So Ill start with my first question - at what HP does it start to make sense to have a girdle bolted with the main caps of the 2JZ. Any noticable difference in oil circulation when using the girdle with a mid sump?

20200424_143039.jpg

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Ivo1.jpg--614x345.jpg.80d7bee41fac902ab19301bd7de637bc.jpg

 

Ivo Jurisic with his 2JZ swapped 1977 Datsun 280Z reset the S30 chassis record several times during the event finishing with a final PB of 7.28 @ 186Mph.

 

This is someone I went to Automotive school with back in 2006.  He didn't start building up the car until 2009 and it seems never ending to the changes he makes to it.  The above numbers are what he ran this year at TX2K.  He has done a roll cage, tubed, and multiple iterations of interiors and turbo setups.

 

I know he has run new rails and tube framing in the engine area, not sure of what he has done the last 2/3's of the body.  I think I remember him saying that it actually was a bit harder fitting a 2JZ, then it is to fit a SBC 350 into S30 chassis, just some food for thought.  I believe he said that 2JZ fuel system is good for about 500HP with stock components and that the lower ends of the engine are good up to about 1000HP.  Don't quote me on those numbers, just what I remember him saying. 

 

So I think your issue with HP levels like CALZ stated will be chassis related.  So it depends on how much stiffening or completely changing the chassis you are going to do.  If you need more in-depth info, I can try to reach out and get more exact numbers.

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On 4/26/2020 at 1:36 PM, calZ said:

I don't know much about 2JZs, but at those HP levels you'll definitely need to do some chassis strengthening. The two links below should give you examples and ideas for basically everything you'd want to do.

 

https://imgur.com/a/R27sh

Thank you!!! This is great. I plan on doing a lot of metal work and seam welding.

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On 4/26/2020 at 8:34 AM, RuzzianConcuzzion said:

New member, new project. Friends call me the Russian Concussion. Starting a new project that has been in the planning and dream phase for decades.

 

So Ill start with my first question - at what HP does it start to make sense to have a girdle bolted with the main caps of the 2JZ. Any noticable difference in oil circulation when using the girdle with a mid sump?

20200424_143039.jpg

First off Welcome to HybridZ and it's also nice to see another 2J build. I found a lot of useful info in this attached article as well as from this magazine Dsport Magazine on other 2J builds as well as talking with many of the supplier companies (Titan, MVP Motorsports, Power House Racing, Driftmotion, ETC..). I would suggest if you have not already heed the warnings and address the few problematic components of these engines (modified oil pump, billet timing belt tension-er, modified timing gear) for engine longevity. I think you are going a bit overkill with a girdle at those hp goals, but if you can afford it, it would be one step more towards bullet proof. Same could be said for the billet main caps which will require a pricey line bore, but a check will need to be done on the stock tolerances and again one step closer toward a bulletproof engine. I certainly won't dissuade you from taking every action or opportunity  to build your engine to it's fullest potential for longevity again if you can afford to then by all means do so.

I am going for low 600 crank on E-85 at high boost, but will also run flex fuel option and most of the time on a lower boost with premium (91) here in California. Definitely fortify your car to combat twist with the torque you will be producing. Definitely add to your build thread as you make progress and good luck with the build.

 

https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/toyota-2jz-three-ways-circuit-drift-and-drag-part-1/ 

  

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53 minutes ago, Nelsonian said:

First off Welcome to HybridZ and it's also nice to see another 2J build. I found a lot of useful info in this attached article as well as from this magazine Dsport Magazine on other 2J builds as well as talking with many of the supplier companies (Titan, MVP Motorsports, Power House Racing, Driftmotion, ETC..). I would suggest if you have not already heed the warnings and address the few problematic components of these engines (modified oil pump, billet timing belt tension-er, modified timing gear) for engine longevity. I think you are going a bit overkill with a girdle at those hp goals, but if you can afford it, it would be one step more towards bullet proof. Same could be said for the billet main caps which will require a pricey line bore, but a check will need to be done on the stock tolerances and again one step closer toward a bulletproof engine. I certainly won't dissuade you from taking every action or opportunity  to build your engine to it's fullest potential for longevity again if you can afford to then by all means do so.

I am going for low 600 crank on E-85 at high boost, but will also run flex fuel option and most of the time on a lower boost with premium (91) here in California. Definitely fortify your car to combat twist with the torque you will be producing. Definitely add to your build thread as you make progress and good luck with the build.

 

https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/toyota-2jz-three-ways-circuit-drift-and-drag-part-1/ 

  

Thank you so much for your response.

 

I agree with you. I am building this to be bulletproof for whatever I want to throw at it. The girdle I want to get comes with spacers for the the Titan Billet Main Caps so that it seats right below the cap apex and not too far into the oil pan area. I planned on doing both the titan billet main caps and girdle but didnt want to be laughed at for over engineering the bottom end. Q&E machining in Santa Ana already gave me a reasonable quote for a line bore on the block to align the the main caps and girdle while being set with ARP main studs. Torque plate arrived as well so he will be doing the hone with that after it is decked. If anyone wants to borrow a torque plate for a 2jz in OC or LA let me know. I bought mine instead of renting it. If I have a lot of fun building the motor I might make it a continuing hobby for friends.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Nelsonian said:

I may need to hit you up about the torque plate when the time comes to build my motor. Right now I am trying to finish the custom wide body work/stitch welding and wheel options before I turn attention back to the engine.

Of course. Ill let you know how well my experience goes at Q&E for the machining. They are local to us.

Edited by RuzzianConcuzzion

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On 4/27/2020 at 7:59 PM, Nelsonian said:

First off Welcome to HybridZ and it's also nice to see another 2J build. I found a lot of useful info in this attached article as well as from this magazine Dsport Magazine on other 2J builds as well as talking with many of the supplier companies (Titan, MVP Motorsports, Power House Racing, Driftmotion, ETC..). I would suggest if you have not already heed the warnings and address the few problematic components of these engines (modified oil pump, billet timing belt tension-er, modified timing gear) for engine longevity. I think you are going a bit overkill with a girdle at those hp goals, but if you can afford it, it would be one step more towards bullet proof. Same could be said for the billet main caps which will require a pricey line bore, but a check will need to be done on the stock tolerances and again one step closer toward a bulletproof engine. I certainly won't dissuade you from taking every action or opportunity  to build your engine to it's fullest potential for longevity again if you can afford to then by all means do so.

I am going for low 600 crank on E-85 at high boost, but will also run flex fuel option and most of the time on a lower boost with premium (91) here in California. Definitely fortify your car to combat twist with the torque you will be producing. Definitely add to your build thread as you make progress and good luck with the build.

 

https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/toyota-2jz-three-ways-circuit-drift-and-drag-part-1/ 

  

I thought that the timing gear issue on 2JZ engines was specific to the nonVVTI setup. I thought the VVTI had a single piece timing gear and not a two piece

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So one thing I've always wanted to do is a c110 style skyline tail light setup. After doing some research I found a domestic vintage set that I can get as a reproduction. I'm working on fitting them to the tail light panels now. Here is a quick pic of the inner light behind the panel then a quick cut and paste of what I'm hoping the end result looks like! I'll starting the clay modeling and fiberglass work next.

20200510_161056.jpg

20200515_171812.jpg

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Quick update for the 2jz build thatll go in the Z. Got the head completed rebuilt with BC hardware and ordered some goodies including a modified oil pump and valve covers. Turns out my daughter really loves wrenching. My sons nickname is "Toph" so that will explain the engraving. He has cerebral palsy and hangs out with me in the garage all day long. Everything is  being test fit right now. Waiting on the coils, vvti rebuild, and some remaining gear and pulleys.

20201016_092248.jpg

20200925_145835.jpg

20200925_152020.jpg

20201014_185906.jpg

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