Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build

[A to Z]

the black paint I am using is engine block paint.  I am using it because I figured it would be more durable.  The problem with it, is that it is VERY temperamental.  ANYTHING left on the surface makes it bubble up.  So, the last pic doesn't show it as well, but there are some spots that are "bubbly".  I have sanded it and primed it and still goes "bubbly", so I guess it is good enough for this "driver" Z car.

 

[57GMC]

Looks good to me Joe.  Your Z car is really starting to take shape..  Before long you will be rolling down the road as you work on it.. Good job...

[A to Z]

Thanks.

 

Here are 3 pics of my 1972 exhaust manifold. The bolts that hold the probes in have been there for 49 years....hence they are not coming out. So I cut them off and grounded it down smooth. I took it to a welding shop and they welded them all shut and grinded them down flat. On the next pic, you can see I cut off the 2-3 inch long probes, and was able to get in there with a Dremel grinder and flush the port probes. The last pic, the same with the 3 studs. They were a part of the manifold. Had a machine shop drill them out and heli-coil it. I got the new set of studs and bolts on eBay from the Z Depot. Lastly painted it in 1200 degree F flat black exhaust paint. So total including the paint was $125. 

[A to Z]

Again, when you are running an automatic trans, the headers won't work, so this is what you have to do....unless you are going to custom make your own headers I suppose. 

 

Instructions from machinist is to screw in the studs until they stop, then give them 1/4 turn....THAT'S IT!

Edited July 17, 2021 by A to Z

[57GMC]

Very nice Joe, The bonus is its a great flowing set up, seals better than headers and there is more room with less pain in the rear.  Nice and obviously use lots of anti-seize.  Thanks 

[grannyknot]

Nothing wrong with the original manifold, they actually flowed pretty well especially with the air tubes ground flat,  when I did mine many years ago I got a 14" piece of 1/4" aircraft cable and stuck it in a hand drill and shoved it in every opening and turned it on full speed, the individual strands separated and it became a cat o nine tails.

Cleaned out lots of caked on carbon that had built up over the years.

[A to Z]

Thanks all.

 

This car has never been hit.  My intention, is to use my orbital sander with 1000 grit paper and a spray bottle and wet sand the original paint.  Then wipe it down with denatured alcohol, and spray Urethane clear over it.  Anyone see a problem with that?  The clear I sprayed in my engine compartment has A LOT of dirt in it.  I will have to sand and buff some of it to make it smooth.  Lessons being learned!

 

[Dat73z]

Great build thread. Has your car ever been resprayed? If you have the original single stage enamel maybe try buffing a test section first and see how that turns out. It will never be perfect but if the car is straight it'll have some nice survivor patina.

 

Fwiw I was thinking of doing the same or a full respray years ago and realized I had a single stage enamel on the car which went from chalkboard barnfind to glossy barnfind. If I can find some pics I'll PM them to you. 

 

Edit: When I got my current Z it looked like a cream orange chalkboard car from neglect for decades. I didn't even bother wetsanding and just hit it with m205 and here is the result 4 or 5 years later after a period of daily commuting, moving, and poor care on my part. Maybe give buffing a shot first. 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2021 by Dat73z

[YoBrother]

Nice progress!

 

[A to Z]

On 7/18/2021 at 9:48 AM, Dat73z said:

Great build thread. Has your car ever been resprayed? If you have the original single stage enamel maybe try buffing a test section first and see how that turns out. It will never be perfect but if the car is straight it'll have some nice survivor patina.

 

Fwiw I was thinking of doing the same or a full respray years ago and realized I had a single stage enamel on the car which went from chalkboard barnfind to glossy barnfind. If I can find some pics I'll PM them to you. 

 

Edit: When I got my current Z it looked like a cream orange chalkboard car from neglect for decades. I didn't even bother wetsanding and just hit it with m205 and here is the result 4 or 5 years later after a period of daily commuting, moving, and poor care on my part. Maybe give buffing a shot first. 

 

 

The problem I may have, is the spots I have to touch up with my aerosol can, the paint requires a coat of clear over it.....so if I can get it to buff together and look right, then I won't have to clear whole sections.

 

[Dat73z]

Blending the sections may be tough especially if you're going to keep areas single stage and others clear. It sounds like you already invested the $ in some materials though and are willing to put in the time so I'd call whoever mixed the paint for you and ask if what you have specifically will work, what prep to do or if there will be reactions or failures. 

 

For trash in the paint try building your own paint booth. Clean and wet the floors, put up plastic sheet and install a fan + filter to pull pressure. I've found this helps but it takes time and $. You'll still get some trash but it'll be better especially for large panels. 

[A to Z]

thanks.

 

[A to Z]

Today was a day of putting stuff back on. Starter, Alternator, battery tray, intake and exhaust manifolds. Putting the fuel and brake lines back down, etc. Managed to get the radiator and shroud ready for paint as well.

[YoBrother]

Lookin good.

 

[57GMC]

Wow........... Really looking good bro....  I like all of your ideas.  I, myself would worry about the 1000grit sand paper but.. I know you have worked with paint before.  I would tape any edges to stay away from them ..  Keep it up..  Ken

Me I would be using a buffing compound. Slower but more predictable..  

[A to Z]

any chips and nicks can be filled in with touch up paint.  After it is dry, it can be wet sanded down and blend in with the factory paint to where you can't see it.  So, there will be some of that.....some edges and spots, where the paint is very thin will will get a spot paint of white.  The 1000 grit is a quick hit to give the clear something to grab on to.  3 coats, with the hope that I won't have to wet sand with 2000 and polish to get a shine out of it.  My front and rear BRE spoilers will stay a semi-gloss black, which will also match the black stripe along the doors.

 

[57GMC]

11 hours ago, A to Z said:

any chips and nicks can be filled in with touch up paint.  After it is dry, it can be wet sanded down and blend in with the factory paint to where you can't see it.  So, there will be some of that.....some edges and spots, where the paint is very thin will will get a spot paint of white.  The 1000 grit is a quick hit to give the clear something to grab on to.  3 coats, with the hope that I won't have to wet sand with 2000 and polish to get a shine out of it.  My front and rear BRE spoilers will stay a semi-gloss black, which will also match the black stripe along the doors.

 

Very nice..  and look how quickly you are going.  Before you know it you will need another project...

[A to Z]

I doubt it.  This is an exhausting amount of work.

 

[A to Z]

A tad over 9 hours in the garage today. Continuing to put stuff back on, in the engine compartment. Radiator, shroud, fan and fan belt all back in, finished alternator setup, I got the Vacuum booster and new brake master cylinder back on, and then I got the carbs back on. Starting to see progress. Here are a couple pics of the day:

[57GMC]

Very nice Joe... Nice to be able to see the engine on a vintage car as opposed to today just seeing the flat plastic top cover laying on a pile of wires and hoses of a new vehicle.