240Z Turbo Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 I've been out of the scene since 2004, but purchased a 1971 240Z about 5 years ago and it's been sitting ever since. I finally got to the point that I wanted to start the restoration, which initiated last week. My 18yo son is helping me so it has been all good thus far. The plan is to do all the patch panel work myself along with the rust treatment and then have a body shop do the body work. I just want to make sure all of the rust is neutralized or removed and because I have all the necessary equipment to do this at my house, what the heck. Starting with the back of the car we removed the entire rear panel due to excessive rust. At this point I have 99% of the rust removed, but perhaps need to fabricate a few patch panels and decide on why type of rust neutralizer I should use along with the primer before welding the panel back to the car. I don't know how quickly all of this will get done, but it is my intent to steadily get the patch panel work finished. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 (edited) Still hacking away to see what needs to be replaced, but ordered a bunch of panels today from Tabco and have another order going to be made tomorrow from KF Vintage if they can get their act together on shipping costs. I also need to order a rotisserie in the near future once I get the car structurally sound where it can be supported. From the pic below you can see I need to replace the lower portion of the outer wheel well so I ordered new ones from Tabco. Unsure if I will replace the entire thing or just graft in the bad section. Didn't realize that damn wiring harness was under that panel so I cut through it with my saw. Sounds like I need to just install a complete new harness from Painless. The lower fender was in good order so it will be reused, but I had to remove because the inner piece the bolts the fuel filler hose has some rot that needs to be replaced. It also allows me to clean off all the surface rust and treat with POR. Kind of hard to see, but to the right of the filler hose by the wheel well there is a huge gaping hole from rust. I'll clean it up and weld in a patch panel. The inner and outer rocker as well as the front rocker will be replaced. Goes with out saying the floor pans are toast, but I will tackle those later once I get the rockers and rear quarter panels finished. One small hole on that back panel that I will patch and subsequently treat with POR. The surface to the left is pitted along the entire back of the car so instead of replacing I will just weld in 16g panels to beef it up. Edited February 1, 2022 by 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 In case you're wondering what will power this 240Z, I have two options in my head. I am currently building a complete forged motor for my R35 GTR so I will have a stock VR38 that can be mated to a GM trans. The other option will be a 3L L28 with a single turbo S366 SXE (6668) on a custom small runner manifold with the LD28 intake manifold converted to fuel injection powered by an Electromotive Tech 3R mated to a GM automatic trans. My gut says old school, but plenty of time to think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.mike Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Please stay old school! 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 On 2/2/2022 at 7:17 AM, mr.mike said: Please stay old school! 🙂 +1 old school Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 (edited) Today I ordered about $1500 worth of body panels from KF Vintage after getting a coupon to help offset shipping costs. This should allow me to fix everything on the passenger side excluding the front frame rail, which I need to assess it's shape when I get the engine out and the area sufficiently cleaned. PS - Dog leg, b-pillar, floor pan, inner rocker, outer rocker, front sandwiched rocker, firewall panel behind battery, entire battery tray area with battery tray DS - b-pillar, dog leg, outer rocker I also ordered a rotisserie today from the following company. I selected the "unibody brackets" for the rear and the "Redline Front Mopar Mounting Brackets" for the front. https://www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/automotive-c-327_328/rotisseries-c-327_328_212/redline-automotive-auto-restoration-rotisserie-p-2721 The parts from Tabco should arrive late next week rear quarters L/R outer wheel wells L/R rear panel slam Edited February 3, 2022 by 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 Prior to placing the car on the rotisserie, I have much work that needs to be done to ensure the car has enough structural rigidity. Specifically, the passenger side frame rail has significant rust where it joins the lower firewall. It is much easier to work on the car if its on a dolly/cart and I was going to purchase an auto body dolly from Redline for $600, but decided to just make one myself for ~$330. https://www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/automotive-c-327_328/body-cart-dolly-c-327_328_232/redline-engineering-restoration-auto-body-dolly-cart-p-2781 I had the local metal supermarket cut all the metal and ordered some heavy duty casters online. I'll pick up the metal tomorrow morning and the casters should arrive early next week so I'll post some pics of the cart once it's finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat73z Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 Welcome back! Looking good 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share Posted February 5, 2022 (edited) On 2/4/2022 at 4:25 PM, Dat73z said: Welcome back! Looking good 👍 Thanks... I mostly finished the car dolly so just waiting on the heavy duty casters and also need to terminate the vertical posts with some type of pad to hold the car at the jack points. I'll probably cut a notch in 4x short pieces of square tubing to simulate the end of the OEM jack and then place them between the 240Z on the car dolly pads. I can then just tack weld the square tubing to the pads and the car will be secure. For extra security I'll probably strap the car to the dolly through the shifter hole. Everything is 2" square tubing, but the 4x vertical pieces (24") are 1/4" wall and the remaining tubing is 1/8" wall. The bottom plates are just 4"x4"x1/4" and the dimensions between jack points (front to rear) is 36.00" and (side to side) is 51.25". Edited February 5, 2022 by 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 I'm having some fun now that my panels showed up. It took Tabco 10 days to ship me the panels that were in stock after payment, but the parts from KF Vintage showed up in a week shipped from South America. These are just a few of the new panels and will definitely be ordering more from KF Vintage. I finally got the passenger rocker removed, which was an interesting learning experience. I wanted to keep the damage to a minimum, which I was successful although there were several pieces that needed to be cutout due to rust. This is with all the old rusted panels removed. Remaking the inner wheel well flange. I had to also remake another flange using my MIG Welder. I would normally use my TIG welder for this because it is cleaner and you can make a continuous bead, but I was by myself and needed someone to control the foot pedal since I was laying on my back. I still have to install the inner fender, but I wanted to mockup the inner b-pillar to just to make sure it fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 I'm always impressed by how nice the KF Vintage panels look. Hopefully the fit just as nicely. Have you seen the finger controls you're able to get for TIG welders? Might be worth picking one up if you prefer to TIG with how many panels you'll be replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 (edited) 17 hours ago, calZ said: I'm always impressed by how nice the KF Vintage panels look. Hopefully the fit just as nicely. Have you seen the finger controls you're able to get for TIG welders? Might be worth picking one up if you prefer to TIG with how many panels you'll be replacing. The KF Vintage panels are indeed top notch and the fit so far is spot on. In contrast, the Tabco panels have horrible finishing around the edges so it will take some manipulation and hammer work to make them fit. When I get to that point I'll post pics so you can see what I mean. I have no desire to change my torch and once I get the rotisserie setup I will be in a more comfortable position to manage the foot pedal. If my son was home I would have asked him to run the foot pedal because he's done it in the past. I prefer to use the MIG to tack up the panels and after grinding the welds, do a finish pass with the TIG. I also plan on TIG brazing the seams with Silicone bronze for added strength and impede water from penetrating, but that will be more of a last step prior to primer. I TIG brazed my oil pan on the EVO so I suspect the 240Z seams should be pretty straight forward. Edited February 15, 2022 by 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 (edited) I was able to get the outer fender patch panel by the door installed today. I spent about 2hrs modifying the Tabco piece to make it properly fit because the flange finish is garbage. The picture below was prior to all of the necessary changes to get it to fit at the bottom without the 1/4" gap. After a round of stitch welding and grinding it is now done. I'm going to TIG braze the entire wheel well joint between the inner and outer fender and perhaps tomorrow do the bottom portion as a test. Edited February 17, 2022 by 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 21, 2022 Author Share Posted February 21, 2022 Passenger side inner rocker, middle rocker and outer rocker completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 21, 2022 Author Share Posted February 21, 2022 On 2/2/2022 at 7:17 AM, mr.mike said: Please stay old school! 🙂 I purchased a DCT transmission today from a 2014 BMW M6 that is being shipped to my buddies machine shop. He already created the CAD file for the GTR bellhousing so I am having him make an adapter to fit the BMW trans to the GTR engine. Cost wise, it is cheaper for me to run the GTR engine since I am building a forged motor and will have the spare stock motor. My current stock motor makes 749hp@wheels on 93pump so I will dial it down to about 600hp@wheels for the 240Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 What's your plan for chassis stiffening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexander240z Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 5 hours ago, 240Z Turbo said: Passenger side inner rocker, middle rocker and outer rocker completed. Amazing work. I have yet to put in my outer rocker. I need to fix my firewall first. Im worried that the rocker won't have the proper angle if it isn't welded to the firewall first. (Maybe they won't?) let me know. The Tabco panels do suck quite a bit. I especially wasn't fond of their quarter panel replacement pieces due to the dogleg not sitting properly. Protrudes out way too much. KF vintage on the other hand I have never had an issue with fitment. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 6 hours ago, calZ said: What's your plan for chassis stiffening? For new panels I am welding in 2" increments for increased rigidity. I also plan to add additional welds to the lap joints as well as TIG braze the seams with silicone bronze. Once the unibody is finished with all of the patch metal repair I plan to have a custom cage built. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, Alexander240z said: Amazing work. I have yet to put in my outer rocker. I need to fix my firewall first. Im worried that the rocker won't have the proper angle if it isn't welded to the firewall first. (Maybe they won't?) let me know. The Tabco panels do suck quite a bit. I especially wasn't fond of their quarter panel replacement pieces due to the dogleg not sitting properly. Protrudes out way too much. KF vintage on the other hand I have never had an issue with fitment. Keep up the good work! Thanks for the kind words. The outer rocker is independent of the firewall because both the outer rocker and firewall attach to the inner rocker so I don't think the order matters. I am no expert and this is the first time I have done such work, but you should clamp or cleco the new panels in place and then attach all of the surrounding panels to make sure they align prior to welding. It's a tedious process and I've had the door and fender off an on many times thus far. Edited February 22, 2022 by 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) When do you say enough is enough? I guess the answer depends on how much time and effort you want to put into the project to treat the rust. My next step will be removing the door hinge mounts because they are rusted on both sides. This requires that I remove the dash so I can drill out the spot welds from the inside of the car. I will sandblast them and then treat them with POR-15 before welding them back into the car. It looks pretty bad, but it's mostly surface rust. Edited February 22, 2022 by 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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