Brad-ManQ45 Posted May 30 Share Posted May 30 Take it to a muffler shop and have them install two v-band clamps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 Like I suspected, it is the exhaust not being completely closed causing boost issues. I reseated and clamped everything, and I can make around 3psi. Yes Brad, v-bands would be ideal. The issue is, there's no space to put v-bands how I have the exhaust now. I want the piece that runs under the oil to be completely removable, for removability and space reasons, just in case. I'm going to start looking for another set of cheap headers to chop up and combine to add a v-band, see picture for what I'm trying to do. On another note, I have a piece of "welders felt" between my turbo mount and the fender. It's not very thick, and does not seem like it would do much, but it is working pretty well to absorb and dissipate the heat. I can touch directly on the other side of the fender right after a 15 minute drive without it severely burning me. It's warm, but not burning. I'm going to throw a second piece between and pick up some ceramic washers like other suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted June 2 Share Posted June 2 I think I would go with a stock square port exhaust manifold that you match the ports to gasket with and go from there after ceramic coating it. If you want to go for max power equal length headers are ok, but I've seen tests on turbo cars and using cast exhaust manifold weren't much of a liability and provided better low end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 I did pick up a square port exhaust and fabbed up a custom y-pipe. Both sides under the oil pan are v-banded and sealed nicely. I am making around 6psi atm. Now the bad part, after doing the exhaust, the sync loss issue is back, and very bad. I am getting a sync loss reason #2, and extremely frequently, as in every few seconds. This makes the car buck very violently, and sometime stalls when at idle and it drops all signal for a second. The car is undrivable. I attached a tooth log of the issue. As a refresher, I have the DIYAuto Cas wheel 24-2 2024-06-21_12.32.27.csv CurrentTune.msq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 What type CAS ? Have you checked voltage across the pots in the ECU ? Do you need a pull up resistor ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 On 6/21/2024 at 6:15 PM, madkaw said: What type CAS ? Have you checked voltage across the pots in the ECU ? Do you need a pull up resistor ? It’s the DIYAuto 24-2 Cas wheel for the l28et. I haven’t checked the pots, but have been reading about that on DIYAuto’s site. Godzilla raceworks installed a pull-up when I bought the ecu from them, but their ecu had other issues already, so I’m not counting out their faulty work. I will look into adjusting/testing the pots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Yes- you want to verify the 2.5v’s across the 2 pots . I had issues with my MS2 and picking up the signal from my sensor . I ended up installing an external pull up and that solved my issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 (edited) 13 hours ago, madkaw said: Yes- you want to verify the 2.5v’s across the 2 pots . I had issues with my MS2 and picking up the signal from my sensor . I ended up installing an external pull up and that solved my issue I fiddled with the R56 pot today. I can get up to about 3-3.5k rpms before it starts losing sync. Do I keep turning the pot to fix this? It seems very random. When I turn it too much, it starts losing sync at lower rpms or just loses the signal all together. Is there a method to it, or is it just resetting the pot, and fiddling with it until you get the full rpm range? I bought from godzilla race works, and apparently they already installed a pull up. Would it hurt to add another? What dizzy wire did you pull up? Appreciate the help. Edited June 24 by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 2 hours ago, Flak280z said: I fiddled with the R56 pot today. I can get up to about 3-3.5k rpms before it starts losing sync. Do I keep turning the pot to fix this? It seems very random. When I turn it too much, it starts losing sync at lower rpms or just loses the signal all together. Is there a method to it, or is it just resetting the pot, and fiddling with it until you get the full rpm range? I bought from godzilla race works, and apparently they already installed a pull up. Would it hurt to add another? What dizzy wire did you pull up? Appreciate the help. You fiddled with it ? You are supposed to calibrate the voltage to as close to 2.5v’s as possible . There is a procedure that you can find on about any MS manual . I had issues with the fact that in cold weather the engine cranked to low and the signal got lost for starts. Only time I’ve had a sync loss while driving is when my hall sensor was falling off . I have ms2 on my truck and MS3X on my Z . I run batch fire on multiple coils so my set up isn’t like yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 I followed DIYAuto's instructions. You turn it counterclockwise 6 times to reset it and then turn it until it fixes the issue. Where do I probe the pot for voltage? I think the 280zx turbo dizzy is VR sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 I believe the ZXT distributor uses an optical sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 From the 1982 FSM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flak280z Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 (edited) Took the car out two separate times today without changing anything and I had no issues whatsoever. I'm not sure if messing with the pots "fixed" the issue or what happened. I'm going to monitor it over the next few days. Other than the car burning oil, it pull hard and runs great. My tune is in a good spot, nice and smooth. I have a zx close ratio paired with the 3.54 stock rear diff which allows for the turbo to stay in boost longer (Also better mpg when my foot isn't in the floor). I am hitting my 8psi goal easily now, and my turbo wastegate and blow-off valve are working as intended. Attached are pics of the new piping. I used the old 2-1 y pipe that was previously under the pan, I just closed off one of the Y arms as seen in the pic. I also heat wrapped the pipes after these pics. The exhaust is much simpler now. Edited June 25 by Flak280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.