FastFloridian Posted May 17 Author Share Posted May 17 It was messy, but axles are put back together. Overall pretty easy with the correct parts, probably spent more time cleaning up all the grease 😂. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Got the axles bolted up to the diff, forgot to get the castle nuts, so I’ll bolt to the wheel hub next. Was a little tougher that I thought, tight space for the bolts and having to unbolt upper control arm, I could have used an extra set of hands 😅. I’ll torque up the rest of the rear end this weekend and hopefully get some brake fluid in to test for leaks. one of the axle bolts was stripped a little right at the end and couldn’t get the nut on, I’ll try and clean that up this weekend too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 Got fluid in and bled the brake lines. Smell leak at the line lock, tightened up and everything looks good. Been playing around with the wiring, seeing what I have and how I’m going to put it all together, got some ABS sheets and going to make up some panels to organize everything. Also got the alternator and bracket on and test fitted the sniper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 (edited) Do you have a forward rotation water pump? Most are reverse rotation with serpentine belt. If you try to run a reverse rotation pump forward, you won't be circulating water through the engine. Also, I would start fresh with the wiring. Don't try to reuse the original fuse block or any of the under dash wiring. Edited June 15 by 74_5.0L_Z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 10 hours ago, 74_5.0L_Z said: Do you have a forward rotation water pump? Most are reverse rotation with serpentine belt. If you try to run a reverse rotation pump forward, you won't be circulating water through the engine. Also, I would start fresh with the wiring. Don't try to reuse the original fuse block or any of the under dash wiring. I got the correct rotation, just by luck. I bought the water pump last year, before I got the pulley kit, didn’t really understand the difference at the time. Got the belt/pulley kit and since no other accessories, standard rotation was what I needed 😅. 100% of old wiring is gone, using sniper for EFI, got a lights/blinker kit/harness and I’m making/piecing together everything else. I discovered deutsch connectors the other week and bought a kit. These are great for wiring switches and other small wiring. This is a switch for my Wilwood electronic parking brake. I’m not ready to full on wire the car yet, just evaluating what I have and making a big picture plan so when I’m ready it should be a lot easier. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Is that a 6 groove or 8 groove serpentine? I wish I could find a forward rotation pump the works with the SN95 Timing Chain cover. That would simplify the belt routing. I would love to lose the upper pulley/tensioner on my set-up. I'm always happy to simplify and lose weight. I'll reach out to the FlowKooler folks and see if they can provide a forward rotation pump for the SN95 timing chain cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 4 hours ago, 74_5.0L_Z said: Is that a 6 groove or 8 groove serpentine? I wish I could find a forward rotation pump the works with the SN95 Timing Chain cover. That would simplify the belt routing. I would love to lose the upper pulley/tensioner on my set-up. I'm always happy to simplify and lose weight. I'll reach out to the FlowKooler folks and see if they can provide a forward rotation pump for the SN95 timing chain cover. It’s an 8 groove, I got the pulley kit from CVF. I would think a standard rotation wp would be more common for the SN95, I mean a lot of people mod and race it 🤷♂️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted June 27 Author Share Posted June 27 Got a new tool chest, been accumulating a lot of tools with this build and ran out of room to store everything. Space is limited in my garage so this will get a pile off the ground. Took a break from the heat and built two panels in the nice A/C. First panel is for anything not tied to emergency cut off like locks/lights/signals, with cut off solenoid on bottom to feed the second panel. Second panel has 3 250amp relays to power a relay box, fuse box and distribution block each running off of ignition 1, 2 or accessory position of push button start. Not sure if that’s the right way to do it, but that’s what I’m going with for now. I’ll get back to the garage and work on some other projects next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatout Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 i've had good luck with that exact husky tool box. I don't think for the money you can do better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted June 30 Author Share Posted June 30 On 6/28/2026 at 9:00 PM, flatout said: i've had good luck with that exact husky tool box. I don't think for the money you can do better. Yeah, I’ve already got the next size up and I’ve been happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted June 30 Author Share Posted June 30 Radiator came in, made a mistake on sizing it, but I think it still works just fine sitting on the frame rails, thoughts? Or should it get something skinnier that fits between the frame rails. I like the built in tray on this bumper, I’ll add some ducting that just continues this on to that bottom rail and continue it past to the end of the radiator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 (edited) It looks like the radiator in your picture has the lower outlet in the wrong side. I use a Griffin 24x19 P/N 56202-XS with the driver's side lower outlet. I had them make it with the inlet angled straight out of the core rather than angled. The radiator snugly fits into an aluminum frame that is bolted to the frame rails, and is retained by the hood when it is closed. Edited June 30 by 74_5.0L_Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastFloridian Posted July 1 Author Share Posted July 1 @74_5.0L_Z thanks for the pick of your radiator frame, I had thought you maybe had an intercooler stacked up from previous pic. I ended up going with a dual pass radiator so I had have both inlet and outlet on the same side. I’m thinking of going with 20AN fittings, so I’ll 90 off the radiator and cut to the driver side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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