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280z 1jz track build from a pile of parts


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dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste.  I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. :)  Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only. :)

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10 hours ago, A to Z said:

dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste.  I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. :)  Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only. :)

 

This isn't just a track only build, just track focused, it will see plenty of street time. 

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dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste.  I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. :)  Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only. :)

 

AWESOME!  So glad to hear that.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I have been way to damn busy last two weeks so haven't gotten much done.

 

I did get to borrow a set of seats I thought I wanted, but they just really don't fit. being a full containment seat they basically stick out the window. I was also pretty disappointed with the quality. My buddy had these for one season in a drift car that lives mostly in a trailer or garage and they were already real faded from the sun and had plenty of little rips and tears after just one season.  I ended up buying a set of kirkey intermediate road race seats. I have one of these in my other car and have put 100k street miles on it so figured id be happy with another set. I may add some head support pieces but for now I'm happy with them.

 

Also think I got my wheel picked out. little teaser for now until I can get some tires and sit this thing on the ground

 

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Edited by flatout
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  • 3 weeks later...

Cage is done.

 

Driveshaft arrived. its comically short. i dont know if i even mentioned it in this thread. I bought the engine with a 350z six speed and tried to fit it and didn't like it so i switched to a tremec TKX 5 speed with a scatter shield. lighter, smaller, better gearing, serviceable. shifter position is great, and  not 20+ years old. 

 

Mounted a 240z ebrake handle in place to help connect to the 300zx rear cables. 

 

Started getting the dash sorted. FIA bars are certainly making it extra challenging to do a clean install.

 

Pedal box is in and throttle pedal is fitted. I don't know what the pedal is even out of but it was sitting in a box that came with the car so I made it work. feels good on the foot.

 

Mounted the heater box to the tunnel. designed and 3d printed some ducts that go to the factory defrost ducts. i also added a small foot diverter for the wifes feet as shes always cold. 

 

Mounted the oil cooler. went thru a few ideas between laying it flat and ducting it, stacking it. putting one in the wheel well. etc. Although a 3 stack is not ideal i decided to try it. Can always move it around if its impeding flow to the coolers behind it to much. probably do some sort of screen infront of everything when its on track to keep debris from damaging it. 

 

Got my front valance quickly mocked up. I forgot the headlight buckets were a bit beat up so added that to the list of things to fix. 

 

drivetrain is basically all set so I am pretty close to pulling everything out and starting bodywork. 

 

 

 

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32 minutes ago, flatout said:

Cage is done.

 

Driveshaft arrived. its comically short. i dont know if i even mentioned it in this thread. I bought the engine with a 350z six speed and tried to fit it and didn't like it so i switched to a tremec TKX 5 speed with a scatter shield. lighter, smaller, better gearing, serviceable. shifter position is great, and  not 20+ years old. 

 

Mounted a 240z ebrake handle in place to help connect to the 300zx rear cables. 

 

Started getting the dash sorted. FIA bars are certainly making it extra challenging to do a clean install.

 

Pedal box is in and throttle pedal is fitted. I don't know what the pedal is even out of but it was sitting in a box that came with the car so I made it work. feels good on the foot.

 

Mounted the heater box to the tunnel. designed and 3d printed some ducts that go to the factory defrost ducts. i also added a small foot diverter for the wifes feet as shes always cold. 

 

Mounted the oil cooler. went thru a few ideas between laying it flat and ducting it, stacking it. putting one in the wheel well. etc. Although a 3 stack is not ideal i decided to try it. Can always move it around if its impeding flow to the coolers behind it to much. probably do some sort of screen infront of everything when its on track to keep debris from damaging it. 

 

Got my front valance quickly mocked up. I forgot the headlight buckets were a bit beat up so added that to the list of things to fix. 

 

drivetrain is basically all set so I am pretty close to pulling everything out and starting bodywork. 

 

 

 

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Looks good, what gearing did you go with the on the TKX, I got same bell housing too. I would definitely do some ducting to help get all the air you can through all of that. I have a TT 370Z I track occasionally, oil cooler/intercooler/radiator all stacked similar to you, after about 5 laps or so I need to do a cool down lap to get temps back in range. Adding some ducting is on my to do list on that car.

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, FastFloridian said:

Looks good, what gearing did you go with the on the TKX, I got same bell housing too. I would definitely do some ducting to help get all the air you can through all of that. I have a TT 370Z I track occasionally, oil cooler/intercooler/radiator all stacked similar to you, after about 5 laps or so I need to do a cool down lap to get temps back in range. Adding some ducting is on my to do list on that car.

 I plan on boxing it all to the grill opening as well as venting the hood just behind the radiator. direct air in and give it a place to go. 

 

I have 2.87 first and .81 5th. I have this gearing in a 2jz 240sx with a 3.73 rear and pretty happy with the ratios. so i'll see how 4.08 rear gear works with it on the local tracks. 

Edited by flatout
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  • 3 weeks later...

Although this is supposed to be mostly a race car, this car is a example of what I can build so and don't like cutting corners so changed my plans and going a bit further than originally planned. Pulled the glass (should have done that months ago). pulled the drivetrain and started sanding. Cut the arches for the rear overfenders. welded in the rear marker lights, fuel filler door, antenna, and started smoothing firewall holes etc. Hoping to get it in primer ASAP and start on body work. Found a few "easter eggs" under the paint but nothing too unexpected. 

 

Going to take the engine apart for a health check since its unknown. Depending what I find will be what I do. Hoping to see a healthy engine and just do basics. JZ are tough so feeling optimistic.

 

 

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I'm real hesitant to try and mold the rear fenders. I have mixed feeling of molded vs "bolt/riveted on".  So many Z guys mold them but very little details on longevity, expcially from something that is going to see excessive speeds, heat, vibrations. ETC. Anybody have any real world longevity experiences and installation techniques?

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13 hours ago, flatout said:

Anybody have any real world longevity experiences and installation techniques?

 

John Washington (ZTrix) would probably be a good resource to talk to....he's been building/installing those for many years.  I like what you've done with your front core support -- did something very similar on my car when I replaced the front frame rails.  Great progress -- love seeing your updates!!  👍👍

 

https://www.ztrix.com/

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I should give him a call. I've talked to him several time when buying the parts. I read the PDF off ztrix site to a body guy and he was not confident in the success. but John may have some better ideas. 

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Been a long week but got everything completely stripped and got some epoxy primer layed down on all the metal surfaces. have plenty of body work to do but atleast its sealed and protected now. Hopefully in the next week or two i can get the bodywork done and get some color on it. 

 

I did talk to john and his comment is "I don’t claim to be an expert on bonding. But in my experience cracking at a bond line is often due to inadequate surface prep both the underside of the fiberglass and the underlying metal), poor bonding agent, not enough bonding agent, cheap body filler, and/or excessive flexing of the unibody. On the other hand, I know a lot of guys who do the bolt-on installation. For performance applications, it can be an advantage for working inside the wheel well".

 

With that said I think I will spend the time to make the fitment as good as possible and make a last minute decision based on how well it fits/looks.

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