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Full Length Chevy V8 headers?


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Guest Rick Johnson

When I installed my S & S full length headers they also hit the floor pan. I sent them back and had the collectors changed to 2 1/2 outlet and angled them down to clear the floor pan. The guy at S & S claimed that if you never uncork your headers, you make more power if you size your header collector to match your exhaust pipe.

 

I also removed the front cross member spacers that JTR recommends to improve my drive shaft angles. It had the side benefit of providing more ground clearance.

 

Personally I am happy with my headers although they do scrape on parking lot bumps on the right side if I am not very careful. The guy at S & S claims the reason the right side is so low is because we are not mounting our motors with the front end high enough. I wish he would just change the location because the right side is clearly lower than it needs to be.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Rick

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Rick, never thought of making the collector 2 1/2. Right side lower?? Do you run a stock pan? How low in reference to your pan does it hang?

Been studying Andrews pictures. Why not have SS make the header a few inches shorter so the collector ends up well in front of the floor pan. A coulple of inches shouldn't change the overall characteristic of the header. Yes, please someone measure the width between the l/r headers at the oil sump location.

JS

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Guest Rick Johnson

The picture above looks about like my car. I will try to measure but I think the tubes hang down at least 1 inch lower than the stock type oil pan. I liberally used the hammer on my floor board to allow my 2 1/2" exhaust pipe to tuck in closer to the floor than the above picture.

 

The position of the collectors is not a problem with my set up, just the ground clearance on the right side. And the ground clearance is only an issue over speed bumps.

 

Rick

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Please get a measurement, Rick.

I still think shortening the header, would allow your tubing to make some bends before they got to the floor boards. Looking at Andrew's right side picture and put the end of the collector where the existing one starts. Maybe 6 inches shorter. Might help route the tubes down the tunnel easier.

JS

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  • 9 months later...
Originally posted by Andrew Bayley:

Nope.

My JTR shown above (maybe :rolleyes: ) has the S&S full length headers. These are the same headers that MSA sells in their catalog. In fact, I ordered the headers through MSA and they came directly from S&S. Nothing like paying the middle man. fmad.gif

Andy, was there a part number on the S&S box or packing slip so we can find out for sure what they were? Any idea if they were indeed for a 32 Ford?
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Guest Anonymous

I am not sure what type of mounts I have, but I know its not scarab, the motor is off center to the pass. side. The Hookers didn't fit last week, I wasn't fully aware of all these mounting options. But other than the frame rail, the Hookers made contact on the rear side of the motor mount pass. side. So I want the S&S 1 3/4 pri. long tubes, but am still not sure if I will encounter another problem with the motor mount. Because I am not sure if these motor mounts were made or purchased, and if so who from. Any vebal way to describe or internet picture of the different mounts avalable because I have no clue whos they are. Any help will most likely lead t MORE power.

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If you had one setup already, then I'd probably agree, especially if you had a mild V8. More torque, and a tad more HP, on an LT1 I'd say 25 more RWTQ and 15-20 more RWHP, stock for stock, but I can't recall any solid numbers for sure.

 

More mods, more difference.

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FWIW, I tried the S&S headers with my T56 and LT1 and could NOT get them to fit. The collector was pointing directly into the slave of the clutch, thus my adventure into homemade header making. I was also quite concerned about the passenger side ground clearance problem with the S&S units. Now they fit nice and tight with lots of ground clearance, although putting them in is a PITA, requiring them to put in from underneath, and lifting the engine enough to drop the engine mounts (and JTR spacers and setback plates), but since they will hopefully only be installed once (upon final assembly), I'm not too concerned about that.

Mudge, if your HP and TQ numbers are reliable, that puts a big :D on my face!! I'm sure that the Tri-Y type header setup that I have should give me a little more too 2thumbs.gif:D:eek:

 

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

Yes I have some numbers off of a stock iron headed 355, with a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. We built this motor in school and we changed from block huggers (1 5/8 pri.- 2 1/2 collector), to Hooker Super Comp (1 5/8 pri.- 3 collector), rwtq. went from 280.7 to 280.7. The rwhp. numbers changed from 192.3 to 201.0. This is on a dead stock motor except for headers and intake. Then changed to the Zoomie stlye headers, and power went to 295.4 rwtq., and 202.1 rwhp. As far as peak numbers are concerned the most power we ever made was with the 1 7/8 pri. and 4 INCH collectors, I was very surprised, and we ran those the entire remainder of the class. Make the most of 452.2 rwhp-495.6 rwtq no longer stock of course. :eek:

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Having run both the full length and block huggers on a sbc/z I can say 2 points are apparent to me. 1.Starter heat soak is an issue with full length. 2. Full length HP advantage was never apparent on street. A racer need not worry about speed bumps, but a street car is more lovable with the shorties. john

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