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Another Beginner Question


Guest Anonymous

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well said, Strotter.

 

I caught the disease even worse. I bought a perfectly decent running V8Z. About one year ago, I decided it would be fun to build a 383, throw in a T56 while I am at it. Oh, it has to be fuel injected, so I got an Electromotive TEC3 system. Don't forget big disk brakes front and rear. Oh, those suspension arms look kind of weak, why don't I give Mike Kelly a call about his tubular suspension. What about the rearend? Get an R200, and while it's out of the car, why not put a Quaife LSD. As long as I have Ross on the line, I should do the CV axle conversion thing. Am I missing anything? My mind perhaps, and a whole lot of money. I could have had a nice, used C4 Vette or Gen III RX-7 by now. It's almost ready to run, and it better be worth it.

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Guest Salt Racer Reid

Hello to all,

 

I've just joined this forum and have already learned some new information from you all. I am also embroiled in putting a V8 in a Z. In my case I'm thinking a Chevy 283 (because I got the short block free) /T10/Ford 9" into a 300ZX. The dream is to run at Bonneville in 04 so this will be an engine and basic controls installation. Nothing pretty but plenty strong. Never done anything like this before so I'm jumping into the deep end. Like others, I don't even know how to weld....yet.

 

It sounds like the only real documentation is the JTR manual which I believe only covers up to 280's. Is this correct? Is there anything specific to "85" 300's available?

 

Looking for information on chassis modifications and suspension lowering and strengthening. Modifications must be able to tie to a 10 or 12 point cage. The ZX I bought has trashed frame rails so I'm looking to do something simple to replace, but strong enough to hold a big CI small block in the future.

 

Thanks for any tips.

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Guest tt350

A Twin Turbo SBC in a 240z? Well its about time I found someone with the same mentality as mine! Hell ya im intrested to know this guy.

 

Im, doin a similiar swap by the way (hence the name TT350).

 

Ok, ya, im gonna need that guys number or email or whaever, cuz I need to know who made the turbo headers, and other stuff.

 

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

Okay, I just read this post.. im know im a little behind and all... but.. damn it Strotter... that was scary.. Im still in the honey moon phase... im starting to get into the actual hard bitchy work now. as ive just pulled up the sound deading mats in my Baby Z and found a few more rusted out holes... *sigh*.. anyway I really appreaciated that post. I was getting into the... "well while ive got the interrior out restoring it.. I might as well Fiberglass the dash, and the center console, and hell while the Engine is out, I might as well just swap it out for an L28 turbo, and sense the engine is out and I can get to everyting eaiser, i might as well replace the entire suspension system... cause the car is old...

but then I woke up... And realized that being only 18, and putting a 1 year CAP on this project.. I could only skirt by with a few mods, and just a lot more restoring. Thanks though.. lol im gonna put that as my wall paper, so ill always stay on track. Really though, would it be a better idea to do a 350 swap if my Orignal L28 is bad? or would it be better to go to an L82 turbo?

 

-Joey

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Guest Anonymous

Oh yeah, I forgot.. I had a good plan, I was going to get my $500 fed tax refund and use that to start my body work.. but it just so happens, that something went bad in my Beater (87 maxima) and Im going to actually have to replace a few sensors, mainly the crank sensor... that pissed me off.. Cause I dont want this Z to sit here while summer is comming up.. I actually want to get work done on it... argh.. life's a bitch... :D

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Guest Anonymous

What about a Z32? Any manuals for that? I have a 90 300Z. I know mine isn't as old, and since it's still running good ya'll might think I'm a nut for wanting to tinker with it, but I want to get an early start on the planning and get a large portion of the parts ready before I start. (I'm new at the hybrid thing too, long time Z-lover though). Any help or links to the posts I can't find would be greatly appreciated.

 

-D

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Nick I am 17 years old and my project is a Chevy 355 powered 1978 280Z. Its down to the shell and I've got 60 days to complete it before I go to the Air Force in August. I wish you luck with your project because God and everybody knows that I sure need it.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest billy383Z

All very good advice. The only thing I can add is to do as much of the "prep work" ahead of time, before actually tearing your car apart. Have all of the parts and supplies you will need on hand before you yank the L6/tranny out of your car. I had my motor built, starter and transmission bolted to the motor and ready to install before I even thought about pulling the original engine. I was still driving the car while I was accumulating/fabricating parts. The only thing I didn't have ahead of time was the driveshaft, because I wasn't sure how long it was going to have to be. My car was only down for about a week and half during the swap. Hardest part (for me, anyway) was the wiring, going from the Hitachi alternator/external voltage regulator the the Delco w/ internal regulator.

One more thing...NO Zcar is EVER finished. It's an unending project. There is always something else that "needs improvement". I've been driving my SBC powered '77 for 6 years now, but it still isn't finished. Probably never will be! :wink:

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Guest billy383Z
What about a Z32? Any manuals for that? I have a 90 300Z. I know mine isn't as old' date=' and since it's still running good ya'll might think I'm a nut for wanting to tinker with it, but I want to get an early start on the planning and get a large portion of the parts ready before I start. (I'm new at the hybrid thing too, long time Z-lover though). Any help or links to the posts I can't find would be greatly appreciated.

 

-D[/quote']

We might think you were a nut if you DIDN'T want to tinker with it! Didn't you notice the logo at the top of this bulletin board? "When stock just won't cut it!" :D

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Anonymous

i'm with the other guy. does any one have some good info a v8 swap in to a z32. i realy need alot of info puting in my 383 stroker, a set of premade set of motor mounts.

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  • 1 month later...

you can get a lot of good advice above, the only thing that I would add is do lots of homework and research before you start, if you're intended to build your own engine I would highly advise you purchase a good engines stand before you start, it's almost indispensable. If you do not already have the car I would advise you to find the car with the body in excellent shape, bodywork can become very time-consuming and expensive. The basic swap is relatively easy and all information you may need and all apart numbers are available on this site. If you're using a small block Chevrolet I doubt you can find a question that will be answered by doing a search. In general a 350-thru 406 displacement

will prove to be an excellent choice.

If you have access to a welder it will make your life much easier, but like I said to your homework, get a quality engines stand.

47304.gif And figure everything will cost two to three times more than your initial estimate.

 

check list

if theres any one tool you need its a good engine stand

stand info

you don,t need anywhere near a full selection of tools but be very carefull checking clearances and I highly advise buying a damper installation tool

 

 

 

 

71061744.jpg

159413_lg.jpg

look at the picture carefully

the small 7/16 thread ,on the tool threads into the crank, the damper slips over the tool, the large washer style bearing slips over the tool followed by the solid washer followed by the large nut that threads on the tool, the back of the tool is normally a 9/16 or 5/8 hex this is held with a box end wrench to keep the engine from turning, the large nut is usually a 1 1/8" nut and it is tightened with an open end 1 1/8" wrench or a adjustable wrench against the two washers drawing the damper onto the crank snout! lube the threads on the tool, the inside of the damper and crank snout with oil before starting. the damper will normally slide on about 1/4 of the way bye hand then the tool is needed to draw the damper on the last 3/4 of the distance, don,t over tighten the tool the 7/16" thread will snap off in the crank after the damper bottoms out on the lower timing gear if you do!,

NEVER USE A HAMMER AND BLOCK OF WOOD TO DRIVE THE DAMPER ON, [color:"red"] YES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THINK THEY DID IT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS BUT...[/color]

IT WILL DAMAGE THE THRUST BEARING CLEARANCES,

IT CAN BREAK THE ELASTOMER TORSION RING ON STOCK DAMPERS

IT CAN CAUSE THE INERTIAL RING ON FLUIDAMPER TO BECOME JAMMED INTERNALLY

IT CAN CAUSE THE DAMPER TO FAIL.

IF THE DAMPER FAILS THE CRANK WILL EVENTUALLY BE DAMMAGED

IT GREATLY STRESSES THE CRANK SHAFT

IT CAN DAMAGE THE CRANKS TRANSMISSION PILOT BEARING

IT CAN DAMAGE THE TRANSNSMISSION

ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF DAMAGE IS NOT SOMETHING THAT SHOWS UP RIGHT AWAY, BUT IT WILL DANMAGE THE PARTS LISTED AND THERES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THAT ARE WONDERING WHY THOSE PARTS FAILED 6-24 MONTHs LATER WITH NO CLUE AS TO THE CAUSE!

ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION, IF CRANKSHAFTS THAT ARE A FEW THOUSANDS OUT OF LINE I.E. NOT PERFECTLY STRAIT ARE BENT/STRAITEND WITH A LEAD HAMMER BY CRANK MANUFACTURES (and yes thats how its done) AND CRANKS THAT ARE DROPPED ON A CONCRETE FLoOR SOMETIMES BEND SLIGHTLY ,(happends all the time) WHAT MAKES YOU THINK THAT BEATING ON THEM WITH A HAMMER AND A BLOCK OF WOOD WONT DAMMAGE THEM? AND WHILE WERE AT IT WHAT WOULD YOU DO TO SOME GUY YOU CAUGHT BEATING ON YOUR ENGINE BLOCK WITH A HAMMER? WELL WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CRANKS DOING TO YOUR MAIN CAPS WHEN YOU BEAT ON THE CRANK? PROPERLY USED THAT INSTALLATION TOOL CAN EXCERT OVER 15 TONS OF PRESSURE TO SLIDE THE DAMPER ON, IF IT WONT SLIDE ON, THERES A PROBLEM! FIND IT AND FIX IT .....DON,T BEAT ON THE DAMPER/CRANK

 

I KNOW your not going to want to hear this at this time, but it will save you thousands of dollars and lots of wasted effort in the long run,you need to understand the basics BEFORE you START SPENDING MONEY,TAKE THE TIME TO BUY A FEW BOOKS AND READ A FEW TECH ARTICLES, TO GET THE BASICS

 

read this , by the time you understand all the links youll have the basics

 

 

 

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech.htm

 

http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html

 

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech.htm

 

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html

 

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=397334&Forum=UBB64&Words=LSA&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=3&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=397176&Search=true#Post397334

 

if cams are a mystery please take the time to read these, it will get you a good start

 

http://www.newcovenant.com/speedcrafter/tech/camshaft/1.htm

(read LESSONs 1-8)

 

http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/lca.html

 

http://www.wighat.com/fcr3/confusion.htm

 

http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/valvetrain/camfail.htm

 

http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/index.html

 

http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm

 

http://www.cranecams.com/master/adjustvt.htm

 

http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.htm

 

http://www.totalengineairflow.com/tech/valvelashing.htm

 

http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/engine/Cam_Selection.html

 

http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/101/Cam_Theory.html

 

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119736.htm

 

http://www.mercurycapri.com/technical/engine/cam/vtg.html

 

http://www.n2performance.com/lecture1.shtml

 

http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp1.html

 

http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp2.html

 

http://home.wxs.nl/~meine119/tech/camqa.html

 

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB64&Number=200511&Forum=UBB64&Words=your%20kidding&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=200510&Search=true#Post200511

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html

 

http://www.speedomotive.com/Building%20Tips.htm

 

http://www.kb-silvolite.com/page05.htm

 

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/

 

http://www.aera.org/Members/EngineTech/engine.htm

 

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html

if you do nothing else buy and read these books BEFORE starting the engine build

I will save you THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS WASTED and YEARS OF LEARN TIME

 

 

 

http://www.73-87.com/chp/chp.htm

 

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/71298/index.html

 

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

 

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

 

 

DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR

buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once youve got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!

 

HOW TO BUILD THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVEROLET by LARRY ATHERTON&LARRY SCHREIB

.

HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD

1884089348.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

.

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

155788238X.01.TZZZZZZZ.jpg

how to build & modify CHEVROLET small-block V-8 CAMSHAFTS & VALVTRAINS BY DAVID VIZARD

 

SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

0931472067.jpg

SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE BUILDUPS

1557884005.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

welcome to the board, george!

 

no, it doesn't, unfortunately. there are a couple of members on here who have done the swap. look up the profile for 80LTI, he has a v8 in his. there are no mass-available writeups on the subject, but there are people here who have done it and with a little searching you'll get alot of help...bob

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