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ABSOLUTE must have equipment!


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let me explain what Im saying and why, the driveshaft safety loop is mandatory to be placed, in the car and where its placed . its way to late if you bust a drive shaft at 80mph while your passing someone on the interstate, the u-joint busts and you find yourself rolling over and over because the driveshaft pole vaulted your car into a sideways roll to say"CRAP I SHOULD HAVE INSTALLED THAT $350 DOLLARS WORTH OF SAFETY EQUIPMENT"

the basic idea of a driveshaft safety loop is to keep the front end of the drive shaft from falling down in the case of a front drive shaft U-joint failure and jaming into the ground, pole vaulting the car and flipping it! if the rear U-joint fails the drive shaft normally makes a hell of a lot of noise beating the transmission tunnel, flailing around untill it works loose and slips out of the transmission, by the engine untill the driver turns the engine off,pushes in the clutch or having it falling out on the track! (trust me I know) but if the forward U-joint fails the rear end flails the driveshaft in a similar manor untill the car stops moveing, now ideally the loop completely incircles the drive shaft and holds it almost exactly in its normall alignment so that all you get is a bunch of noise and no damage to the car, placement should be carefully though out to limit the ability of the drive shaft from doing damage if it comes loose under power!

 

lak-18015.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LAK%2D18000&view=257#largerimage

btw dont forget

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=87837&prmenbr=361

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LAK%2D15003

largeco.jpg

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safety equipment INCLUDES

 

blow proof bell houseing

drive shaft loop

fire extinguisher

helmet with face shield/break proof glasses

fire proof gloves/jacket

safety harness

all of which you can buy with careful swap meet shopping for $350-$500

and ALL of which can SAVE YOUR BUTT!

and if you normally exceed 450hp/120mph/12 seconds or less ID HIGHLY RECOMMEND A ROLL CAGE and FULL FOUR WHEEL DISK BRAKES

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now ideally the loop completely incircles the drive shaft and holds it almost exactly in its normall alignment so that all you get is a bunch of noise and no damage to the car, placement should be carefully though out to limit the ability of the drive shaft from doing damage if it comes loose under power!

 

Oh yeah, I checked the rules for the imports, and the front edge of the loop must be within 6" of the front U-joint. There is a handy little flat spot under the Z car that places the loop at 5", at least on my 280Z/L28ET/T5 with a custom driveshaft.

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Pete:

It is a very slick design. Two problems, though. I don't have any pictures of it as yet and I promised John that I would keep the design proprietary since I'd be messing with his bread 'n butter if I published photos.

Once we've proven that it works (it hasn't gotten the lead foot test yet) he'll decide how he wants to proceed in relation to marketing it.

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I understand. Unfortunately, for those of use that don't use his design for mounting the engine and trans, I'm wondering if it'd be marketable. It'd have to be somewhat universal for differing driveshaft lengths, transmissions, etc., wouldn't it?

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Pete,

Right now it is designed to work with a T56 & '88ZX R200. Length is easily adjusted if the two major components remain the same. If either the tranny or diff are changed then all bets are off because then the mounting mechanisms at either end will require some amount of modification.

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