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Dyno tune = blown engine?


Guest Tim78zt

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Guest Tim78zt

Has anyone heard of tuning a car on a dyno only later to have it blow the engine (detonate) due to a lean conditon created by the load differential between dyno rollers and the road?

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Well it is possible but highly unlikely that the Dyno Pull did the deed. Kinda leads to something already being amiss and just being brought to surface during the hard pulls or due to the tuning conditions... I'm guessing here, but there is a Dyno Operator I know on a news group list I can ask...

Mike

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I don't understand how the load characteristics of a dyno would create a mistune where you would run leaner on the street...but if you dialed it on the dyno to a gnat's a$$, I can see how the real world would create marginal conditions like IC heat soak, or other heat soak issues that wouldn't show on a short dyno pull.

 

That sounds like the type of dyno tuning the sterotypical Supra tuner would do, just to get a high number. I wouldn't call that tuning ON the dyno, that's tuning FOR the dyno :D

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Dyno is alot of load specially dynojet286 ? (can't remember the number. But it's not much worse than going up a steep hill so it it's going to detonate on dyno, it's going to on steep incline. Just try to keep the head temp low nad airflow through radiator and IC it should be fine. IMO

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Yes it is possible under some circumstances

 

1) Hotter air conditions than on the dyno

2) Failed fuel pump

3) Failed injector

4) Loose distributor, too much timing advance

5) Carbon buildup causing detonation

6) Changed to hotter spark plugs

7) Bad batch of lower octane gas

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Yes we need to get to the bottom of this one, Tim78zt has had some bad luck. Thing is he really doesn't have it cranked up and has quality components. It's gotta be something simple, need a good turbo guru to go through the car and diagnose it. It is bound to save money and heartache in the ned.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Tim, are you saying that the car blew the HG while on the road but, on the Dyno it was just fine? Are we talking about that same shop again? If so then come by I'm living in Mesquite now but, we can build and play with the car for much cheaper than they are charging you. One thing you might think about would be a J&S knock sensor thingy. I think they are called a failsafe. Basically it will pulltiming when you are getting near pining or are already there. It all depnends on the sensitivity level you set it at. I've used on before and they really will help you to tune the car when you don't have all the time, knowlegde, and money in the world.

 

Now that I think about it does your DFI have a knock sensor?

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One of the hotrod type mags (maybe PHR) recently had an article about the loading of different chassis dynos. I recall the dynojet put less of a load on the car than a Mustang dyno, which was pretty close to real road loading for the car in the test.

 

I'm wondering if the dyno didn't load it enough whether you'd get into more knock on the road and start to hole pistons.

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  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old topic, but no one mentions if they've installed this product or some other knock sensor timing retard device.

 

I'm getting ready to make some dyno runs and want to start pushing my triple mikuni, intercooled blow thru turbo, MSD setup a little farther into the 'extreme' range and I definitely don't want to blow any head gaskets or burn holes in expensive pistons...

 

Thanks,

WW

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Tim, you know my story. That is exactly what happened to me and I bet it was with the same shop.

 

They made tons of runs in near 90 degree heat. It was on the ragged edge with a failing DFI unit.

 

Then I get the car and it blows in less than a week with moderate driving. That is even with an O-ringed motor.

 

Greg Kring who used to tune my Z also thinks a car runs leaner on the street.

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