JKDGabe Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 I'm looking for the dollar amount I'd have to spend on upgrades (no need to list all the upgrades, I know most of them) to get to about 250rwhp. Don't have the car yet, just researching. I have been reading alot here and searching but haven't seen it stated X vs. Y amount. One more q, what about reliability? All I really want is a reliable daily driver that can beat the average mustang and camaro... I know the L6 is a long running motor... how about the 3.0? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRAD D Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 As for cost you will need L28D crank and people want around 250$ just for that. + 240Z 9mm rods that go for around 100$. As for reliability I have heard that the strokers run hot? I dont think you would need a 3.0L to get 250rwhp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 You don't need a 3.0 liter to get 250 hp turbo. I made 307 to the wheels on my old set-up, and I haven't had any problems with it. I do have forged pistons, but even cast one's wouldn't scare me. You need good engine management, and that is worth more then 200 cc's and crappy engine management, ie stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Baldwin Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 My 3.1 had no issues with running hot, with proper carb jetting. That's putting out 235 rwhp, and with a 3-row 260Z radiator. The engine was strong as a horse for ~30k street miles and 50+ track days, until that little issue of losing oil pressure on right-handers finally caught up with me. Rebuild in progress. Comp oil pan with swinging gates will replace the stock one I was using. FWIW, the parts for the rebuild ran me $1150. New pistons, one new rod, lots of little shit that added up. If you want to get to 250hp NA, you want to maximize displacement. I'd go 3.1 if you're staying with the L6. $250 for the crankshaft doesn't seem so bad when you're spending that much or more on an air filter/backing plate! You'll also be spending at least $1000 (I spent $1500) on headwork and cam setup. I went cheap on carburetion, $600 for a used set of triples. Last time I added it up, my motor cost me about $5000 to build, including everything, so there's at least a data point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Baldwin Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 Just so everyone knows, I did NOT write the word "dodo". Ferchrissakes, if you wanna **** me, go ahead, but don't put WORDS I DIDN'T SAY in my posts! Please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 Just so everyone knows, I did NOT write the word "dodo". Ferchrissakes, if you wanna **** me, go ahead, but don't put WORDS I DIDN'T SAY in my posts! Please? Dan, I believe that the BB software automatically changes naughty words. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKDGabe Posted May 14, 2003 Author Share Posted May 14, 2003 Thanks guys but from what I understand they should be able to handle 250 without a rebuild right? I'm just talking about upgrading x vs. y and wondered about the cost. What I'm really leaning towards is getting a 280Z and putting a 2.8T in it. Unless someone can show me it's cheaper to just get a Z31... I don't care for the body style though. And as the title says, I'm going turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 All you need to get a reliable, mustang spanking 250rwhp is get an intercooler and exhaust on a bone stock L28ET. A Z31 ECU and MAF will help, but the fuel system can be stock. I do just that with my setup, but I have an upgraded turbo(T3/TO4B V trim) and a Spearco intercooler. With 12 or 13 psi sea level, and that setup, you can run low 13s all day long, spanking the Mustangs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 Dan you just got to learn how to trick the software. S.hit should work as will $hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 All you need to get a reliable, mustang spanking 250rwhp[/b'] is get an intercooler and exhaust on a bone stock L28ET. A Z31 ECU and MAF will help, but the fuel system can be stock. I do just that with my setup, but I have an upgraded turbo(T3/TO4B V trim) and a Spearco intercooler. With 12 or 13 psi sea level, and that setup, you can run low 13s all day long, spanking the Mustangs. Actually you are right sleeper. HKS said their intercooler, exhaust and intake was worth 245hp on a stock turbo engine. Since their exhaust is small, you should be able to pick up a little more hp (5 to 10) going with a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust, and I would run a spearco intercooler that is very efficient with low pressure drop. HKS claimed their HP at 11 psi I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 LJ, when you say the HKS intake, do you mean the "ricer" term for "tube with filter"? Or an actual intake manifold? Just curious. I know HKS made some cool stuff for the Z's back in the day(when Zcars were the only Japanese performance car), so an Intake manifold would've been cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 With HKS IC, 3 inch DP, and 10psi on stock T3, I trapped 100.5mph. HP caculator said it was about 222RWHP I've 0.2L less displacement also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 The HKS intake was their little foamy filter thing, which sucks if you ask me. Run a K&N and be ahead of the curve. Sorry for the confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Want aZ Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 All you need to get a reliable, mustang spanking 250rwhp[/b'] is get an intercooler and exhaust on a bone stock L28ET. A Z31 ECU and MAF will help, but the fuel system can be stock. I do just that with my setup, but I have an upgraded turbo(T3/TO4B V trim) and a Spearco intercooler. With 12 or 13 psi sea level, and that setup, you can run low 13s all day long, spanking the Mustangs. OK Sleeper, is the Z31 ECU a simple plug n play, or do you have to adapt the harness from the 28ET to it?? goes for the MAF as well as I take it that the 28ET is SD??? Am I right on guessing (Assuming) this?? Damon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 15, 2003 Share Posted May 15, 2003 No it is not a simple plug and play. Personally, I took the long route and studied the wiring diagrams, then cut and resoldered all the harness ends, using the 280ZXT harness. If you are patient and meticulous you can get good results - mine has been trouble-free. If you are not into wiring, you can use the Z31 harness, possibly having to relocate the ECU to the passenger side - not a bad option IMHO. Other people have figured out how to use the 280ZXT harness as-is, with some connector modifications. A friend of mine tried that, and ended up connectiong the MAF backwards, and cooked the ECU - risky. None of the Nissan ECUs are speed-density. The L28 stuff (280Z, 280ZX, 280ZXT) all have the door-flap air flow meter, and the Z31s use a hot wire MAF for air measurement. This is a much less restrictive way to measure air - the door-flap is crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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