PETEW Posted May 26, 2003 Share Posted May 26, 2003 I have been a member here for quite some time and have read multiple thoughts on brakes and what works and what doesn't. What I want now is what is a set up that will work and be a balanced system for drag racing and for some autocross and track days, and be good enough in the long run to keep me happy. I am looking at running 280ZX front calipers and vented rotors on the front with 280ZX rear calipers w/ solid rotors out bake. I am also looking at a full 4 piston aluminum caliper w/ 12.2 vented rotor and 240sx rear brake. I just don't know if this is a balanced system. I also am afraid of doing the 280ZX front brake since I have to drill out the threads in the struts making future upgrades more difficult and/or expensive. I really would like to buy the racing front set up and keep my drums out back for know just to get it on the road. Then switch to a 240sx set up with CV's later on. I'm just not sure if this will balance out. Can I compensate with a proportioning valve, or do I need to do both at once. Anyone with some experiance let me know please becasue I need to make a decision right away. The front race set up is less than $700 right now with calipers,rotors,pads, lines, and hardware. Thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted May 26, 2003 Author Share Posted May 26, 2003 Here's another dumb question. When switching over to the 280ZX master are you taking the booster and making it a power brake setup or just using the master cylinder. I know the older Z has that vacuum servo thing but it seems like it would be a good idea to make the car have power brakes since switching the master over. It doesn't look like it would be hard, but looks can be deceiving. Has anyone done this? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted May 26, 2003 Share Posted May 26, 2003 you can use the 280zx booster. it is the same bolt pattern but you will have to flip it upside down to get it to fit. this will not affect anything. you may also have to adjust the throw on the shaft inside the booster to get it adjusted right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted May 27, 2003 Author Share Posted May 27, 2003 Well, I went and spent a buttload of money but got 4 piston caliper front with a 12 x 1.25 curved vane vented disk, and 4 piston rears with a 12 x .81 curved vane vented disk. The package came complete with all hardware, lines, pads, etc. I also got an adjustable proportioning valve. Got the complete set up to my door for $1500. I really didn't want to spend that much but if your going go you got to whoa! I hope to have it on the car in the next few weeks so I can take some pics of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted May 27, 2003 Share Posted May 27, 2003 A zx booster won't work on a manual car because it won't clear the clutch master cylinder. A booster off a 74 260 is bigger than the previous years, but small enough to clear the clutch master cyl. I bought one at autozone for about $120. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72zcar Posted May 28, 2003 Share Posted May 28, 2003 so whats the word on a 280zx booster on a 73...will it work or will it hit the clutch master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 The ZX booster will not clear the clutch master cylinder on a 73. One of the unexpected items I ran into when I converted my 73 to a straight drive. I was using the ZX booster when I had the 700R4 in the car. The 74 260 booster is bigger than a 73 booster, giving more assist to the brakes, but still clears the clutch master. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 thanks for the clarification. i hadn't thought about the clutch master yet, as it has yet to be installed in my car. i'll add that to my notes...and replace my old booster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Well, I went and spent a buttload of money but got 4 piston caliper front with a 12 x 1.25 curved vane vented disk, and 4 piston rears with a 12 x .81 curved vane vented disk. The package came complete with all hardware, lines, pads, etc. I also got an adjustable proportioning valve. Got the complete set up to my door for $1500. I really didn't want to spend that much but if your going go you got to whoa! I hope to have it on the car in the next few weeks so I can take some pics of it. sounds like a nice set up. Where did you get it from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j260z Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 i seem to recall seeing a brake setup on e-bay from arizona z car which sounded quite close to the setup in question!! is that the kit you purchased? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted May 29, 2003 Author Share Posted May 29, 2003 Nothing gets past you guys. I couldn't pass up the deal. The prices were better than he advertises on his site and the performance I should get from them should surpass whatever I need. Heck I even a got a line lock with it for nothing. I know they don't cost much but what the heck it just helps it make it a better deal. I will let you guys know what I think of them once they're on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 I'm running: 1. Outlaw 2800 series 4 piston calipers front and rear (1.75" pistons front, 1.25" pistons rear). 2. Coleman 11 x .81" vented front rotors. 3. Brembo 11 x .61" solid rear rotors. 4. Tilton 7/8" and 15/16" master cylinders (will probably reduce both 1/16" for a little better brake feel) on a custom mount using the stock brake pedal. 5. Tilton prop valve and balance bar. 6. Hawk Black pads. The whole system is: 1. Lighter then the stock caliper, master, booster, rotor, and drum setup. 2. Much more effective and consistent braking. 3. No fade or any brake problems during this year's OTC on 7 different race tracks. The car stops quickly and straight every time. 4. All for under $1,000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thepenguin99 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 JohnC, did you buy a kit or fabricate a lot of stuff? If you bought it could you tell me where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Some of the parts (calipers, pads, rotors) came from SCCAMike at http://www.phonebooth.com, the Tilton parts came from Tilton, and most other stuff (mounts, brackets, lines, fitting, pushrods, etc.) were fabricated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gprix1 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 John, you really need to get a web page goin' with your car I would like to take a closer look at this setup and other things you've talked about before.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 I would not make any apologies for that Arizona Z car brake set up. I would have bought the same set up some years ago if I had the money. I have read posts from people who have that set up and they rave about it. Hell, even the guy at Reaction Research says it probably one of the best Z brake kits around. The only thing I didn’t like about it was the lack of a parking brake. The price may seem high, but fabricating brackets is not cheap either. Especially if you get them wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Yup, Pete Paraska is running the same setup and he's not had anything bad to say about it! Nothing wrong with it, and at a decent price! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted May 29, 2003 Author Share Posted May 29, 2003 John, Yeah I wish I could have gone cheaper, but no one was replying at the time I put the post in. Your set up is actually what I was trying to go with, as far as price and performance. Unfortunately I don't have the time (wife is due any day now ) nor the tools to really fabricate metal parts. I thought the deal I got was fair, and like I said will be more than I will ever need. If those brakes overheat or fail, I'm guessing it will be my fault. Well now the whoa part is taken care of time to finish the go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 Johnc, are you running any cooling ducts on the white bitch? If so, how many? Johnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z8 Posted May 29, 2003 Share Posted May 29, 2003 I'm running the same Arizona Z set up, cheap it is not but two issues drove the decision. 1) if your going to spend the money to build a fast car-aren't the brakes AT LEAST as important as the engine? If your car won't go your ticked off-if it won't stop your dead. 2) I fabricate all my own parts, but I'm a chef, not a machinest. I don't want to be bombing through the esses at Mid-Ohio and have a part that I didn't get just right give up on me or have less than optimal peformance. Oh, and by the way-you will never need more brake no matter what you do to your car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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