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Must be my month for bad luck!!! New Act clutch install prob


Jersey

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Just a thought. Are you guys still using the stock rubber flex line with your clutch system? You've increased the size of the pressure plate, so there is more resistance as you pump the clutch pedal. Perhaps the rubber flex line is ballooning on you enough that it is killing your slave stroke. (It probably wouldn't take much flex) Just a crazy idea, but you might consider swapping in a braided SS line there and give it a shot.

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Also make sure you use a good high quality fluid. The Castrol is good' date=' but don't ever use that stinking valvoline synthetic. It sucks. [/quote']

 

Okay' date=' I have never used the Valvoline synthetic fluid, but would you care to elaborate on this? Aside from sucking, what is wrong with the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid?

 

So what gives?[/quote']

 

 

Well I ran it in my ZXT for a while after I went thru the whole brake system figuring synthetic was good. I had problems getting the car to stop at the track running in the 1/4, and I had some semi-metalic pads, although nothing special.

 

I was literally running off the end of the track so I sent Topend an email and he told me to junk the synthetic and run the castrol. So I drained it all out, and replaced the fluid, bled it, and it stops much better. I am going to change over to KVR carbon Fiber pads and see if that helps too, I have them just haven't installed them.

 

The difference in stopping is amazing. I would never run that mess again, as I said, it sucks. :lol:

 

I've run the Valvoline synthetic in my brakes for 3 years now, with no problems. I ran a few weeks ago on the road course with Porterfield pads, and freshly bled (of course), and had excellent braking performance. Never faded, could break the tires loose everytime, and did on accident a few times.

 

 

Previously I'd fade the brakes with semi-metallic street pads, but I attribute that to the pads, as it worked very well on the street. I like the stuff - it has a very high dry boiling point.

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Hey all. Thanks for the all the info. Joe, i think you're right on track with the 7/8" Tilton. He's what i did yesterday - I couldn't find a car that used a 3/4" MS and would come close to mounting into the Z but i did find out that the Pathfinder used a 11/16" slave so, i popped it in. It definitley helped. Now when i'm driving i can shift quick by only having to throw my leg about 3" instead of 6". I think the right way to go is to increase the MS size, as Joe did, because the way i did it by reducing the size of the slave, increased the pedal effory even more. Yes, i hope i NEVER get caught in traffic with this thing the way it is! But, it's tight, i can shift, it holds and i'm trackbound tomorrow night. I think someone asked about breaking the clutch in? I've never really "broken" a clutch in because all i've ever used was the organic kind. Kind of just let it seat itself. I do take it easy for the first day or so...somewhat...but after that, it gets abused. I never had a problem so why change now? haha. I would think it is important to break a puck clutch in though, but i don;t have any experience with those so cannot advise. Never ran synthetic so i cant comment on that either. Dot3 has always worked for me. Stony...great lookin Z. Sorry to hear about the clutch. Youch. Drax - yes on the flex line. I figured the same thing and will replace it soon but, i knew needed more than what the rubber was giving up that's why i was concentrating on a bigger gain like the MS/slave ratio. I will find braided and swap it for sure. Thanks much.

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Guest bastaad525

Okay so the slave from a Pathfinder, any particular year(s)? Did it bolt right on or did you have to modify anything to get it to work? I'm willing to try it out and see just how much stiffer the pedal is, if it means not having to push the thing thru the damn firewall to get it to let go :) I'm actually pretty jazzed about this.... I've gotten so used to the way it was but now that you guys got me thinking about it and might have a fix I'm all for fixin it!

 

Also Jersey I can't wait to see your new track results!!

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The slave from the '88 pathfinder 4x4 is the one i used. bolts right up. ahhhh...are you using the T5? Cant remember your setup. I know it bolts right up to a T5, not sure about the nissan 5sp. Before you go out and blow $20, let me see if there's another solution, a better one for you to spend $ on like i did. I like the idea of the Tilton that rags suggested. 7/8" master to the stock 3/4" slave would probably make the pedal a little lighter to press and make the clutch action much faster. The pathfinder slave definetly helps, imop.

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Guest bastaad525

nope, running the nissan 5 spd.... and that probably means I can't use that slave. Damn.... well maybe the Tilton it is then. I'm gonna look into that one right now as far as price and stuff. Does it bolt right up though?

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Not sure, you'll have to ask Joe about that one. I do have a '78 nissan 5sp laying on the groung in my garage, i'll try and take a look at it to see if it's got the space between the two bolt holes to accomodate for the pathfinder slave.

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I've heard before that Synthic Brake fluid sucked. It comes to know surprise that LJ doesn't like it. I think if a brake or what ever system was designed to use it then it would be fine but, since our systems were not then it gives a spongy feel to it.

 

Sorry to continue the post hijack, but maybe you are confusing synthetic with silicone? Silicone is bad news, and is just designed to be more tolerant of moisture, which is only a problem if you never bleed your brakes, like 99% of car owners.

 

My brakes are not spongy, and the stuff is DOT4. Just like synthetic motor oil, the fluid is more stable at a molecular level, and it's made of generally the same stuff as dino-derived minerals. If I had the same issues with it as LJ, I'm sure I'd say it sucked too, but I don't those issues at all. It works great for me.

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Not sure if this will help guys, but someone asked about different slave cyl from different cars..

 

I have used a 300zx slave cyl on my 78 280 for years on my 4 and 5 spds that I have installed over the years.. As I recall it has the same part # at nissan.

 

I am aware that I am currently using a 300zx slave cyl on my 300zxt t5.hehehe but that is not the point. hehe

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BTW I would also note that the shift fork (correct term ??) the part the slave pushes against.... anyways they are not all the same size/shape on 240-280's

 

I would also be looking for bending/cracking etc I've seen them bend then crack with wear... just enough to make clutching to the floor neccessary.

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ZR8ED - thanks. The 300zx slave is the same bore size as all the Z's - 3/4". What i looking to do is downsize it to match the MS - 5/8" - or, which i think would be a better solution, would be to increase the size of the MS to match the stock slave - 3/4" - or go a little lager, like Joe did with the 7/8" Tilton. Good call of the "shift fork" I matched the '82ZXT fork and the '78280Z up side by side and they are exactly the same BUT, the one that i was using had some stress marks where the slave pin made contact with it. I used the '78280Z's fork which looked new. Thanks.

 

Joe - $60? Thats it? That's a lot cheaper than i thought it was going to be. Question - with the 7/8" MS and the 3/4" slave, i'm sure with the difference in ratio this way, the slave moves faster than the master but has the pedal pressure increased alot with this opposite ratio? I'm pretty sure that's why most cars/trucks have the master a little smaller than the slave - because it makes the pedal easier to push. This would be the opposite. Thanks.

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