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Haltech running


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well its been a while but finally i got it running saturday night at about 11:30 pm. i have spent about six hours trouble shouting sp it and it turns out that everything was wired good but i had to run one more big gauge wire from engine to body and there it is it cranked the first try. timing is not adjusted, plugs are not gapped (44), fuel pressure is at 46 psi, tps unhooked and still sounded better than when car had stock electronics. also i went with 550 o-ring injectors so no more anoying loud ass injectors to listen to :D its so nice and quiet now (to the extent that is). non of this would be possible without help from Julius (aka jt240z) he spent many hours with me on the phone and he was always there to help me out. i have learned from him so much (OVER THE PHONE) so now i can get damn enginering degree :D . so far so good few more things to do in next few days then its time for some shop tunning. from now its much easier no more rush and no more working on the z until 3am. now i might just have a life lol. i will keep update as soon as its gets some final tunning but i dont care right now i am just happy that car is running.

 

ps. cool part is that i have got something running scary stuff i tell u lol

 

Ivan

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Guest jt240z

Congratulations Ivan :cheers: You did it. I bet you were jumping up and down when she first fired up. I know I was when I got mine started. Here are some additional points to help get it dialed in:

 

1: Drop your fuel pressure to around 38lbs static(no vacuum line connected). With the 550cc injectors, that should put you a little closer to running right.

 

2: Make sure you have the base timing set correctly. Get a timing light and "lock" the timing in the software to say 20BTC to make sure that the base timing is correct. Go to the setup screen for ignition and enable "Lock Timing" and set the "Lock Timing Angle" to 20. The timing indicator should be right on the 20 degree mark. If not, then change the trigger offset in the software until it is correct. Make sure that the distributor is mounted down and rotated clockwise all the way to the bolt stops before you start. This gives you the most advance range and should be close to where my base timing was set to.

 

3: Gap your plugs to around 36.

 

4: Once you connect the TPS, make sure you go into the software and calibrate the TPS. Remember that the TPS percentage should go up as you press on the pedal. If it goes down, then reverse the ground and hot wires and re calibrate again.

 

5: Now you can try to get the waste spark setup working again. :lol:

 

It sure is a rush when an engine fires for the first time on a programable system that YOU installed. :2thumbs:

 

Another Haltech fired Turbo 240 LIVES!!! :rockon:

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Julius

 

hey man i was so tired that at first i wasnt beliving that it was running it took me a second to wake up from day dreaming. if i had it running six hours earlier i would be jumping and screaming all over the place but at that time i was dead tired but i felt good about myself :D . i will do all the adjustments today and i think wendsday we are gonna tow the car to the shop and get it street tuned with yband sp (street tune for now because its almost free). i cant thank you enough for all the time that you have helped me out i sure do appriciate that i hope that i get to return the favor.

 

James

 

thanks for offer but i already have a complete map the only difference is that on map i got its using t3/t4 and i am on stock for right now :twisted: but as soon as i get few little things worked out car is going to get finnal tunning. i do have one question for you. i have whole fuel setup upgraded fuel pump, filter, regulator, ss lines, a/n fittings, fuel rail, and 550's. my igniton is also upgraded. i am running turbo head on non-turbo 77 bottom end with oem turbo head gasket. only thing that i am woried is that spring in my wastgate is 12 psi spring. comperssion is i belive right about 7-5 1 do you think that bottom end is gonna hold for now. i just want to get everything dialed in and then i am gonna put my turbo bottom end but for now its got to be n/a bottom. what do you think?

 

Thanks

 

Ivan

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hey guys i'm getting a haltech pretty soon so if you don't mind i'll be asking alot of questions myself.I'm pretty good at wiring so that shouldn't be a prob but james or ivan i will need a map i have a hybrid turbo so the map you have ivan will prolly work great for me.I'm getting an e6k from owen the same as yours.And do you have the ignition controlled with yours?

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Scotty

 

hey man good to know that there are more of us running (or about to be ) haltech on turbo z's. with e6k you have full control over fuel and igniton so you dont need anything else haltech does it. wiring is pretty straight forward if you need any help let me know i would be more than happy to help you out. if you need map i have no problem sending it to you. if you have t3-t4 with 550 injectors your car is gonna run really good and also fuel pressure regulator would be nice (i think that you already have one anyways). i have stock t3 and my car cranked right up with that map and it even revs up nice with no load on it but before i put any load on it its going to get fine tuned. just let me know when you are ready it wont take you more than few days to get it running.

 

Ivan

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Thanks ivan i will let you know when i get it and install it.I have 420cc injs and a t3/t4e hybrid.I do have an adjustable fpr,What kind of coils do you use?I dunno what to get when mine gets paid off.The stock efi just totally sucks, Me and timz just talked about it and how i really need this haltech.

Again thanks ivan and when is the next renyolds meet? maybe i can make the trip

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Scotty,

 

no problem man whenever you need it just let me know. i am using stock distributor for now but i have camaro coilpacks to put back on. if you do want to use coilpacks in waste spark mode you are still gonna have to keep distributor in the place.

 

Gabe,

 

yeah man we are gonna go hunthing as soon as its dialed in.

 

Ivan

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timz took out his dist which i might do too and run coil packs.I was told that rx 7 coils will do the job too.I was thinking about the trip to renyolds it's 16 hours from here and 950 miles i might just make the trip if i can get my haltech in time.

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is timz running haltech? as far as i know you have to keep distirbutor unless you get like crank pulley done with magnets setup but thats about at least $300 more to do. i know that it looks nice and clean without of distribuotor but there is nothing wrong with it.

 

Ivan

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Good to hear the haltech is running....

 

Actually you can retrofit the existing distributor.... thats what I did.. It now has an optical trigger.

 

Hopefully will running soon..... as soon as I get time to get the small stuff back together :roll:

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Cruez,

 

yeah man it feels good to have it running. yes you can get rid of the distributor but thats gonna cost you much more $$$. if you keep distributor in the place that wont cost you nothing more. if you really want to put coipacks i belive that you can go two ways either go with optical trigger (i belive that requires modifiying your crank pulley please correcet me if i am wrong) or you can leave distributor in the place (as your ignition trigger) and get haltech 3 chanell igniter( $175 ) and go with waste spark setup. i guess it all comes down to how much you are willing to spend. thast just my honest opinion.

 

Ivan

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naw timz has a tec2 i think or a tec3 but i was referring to him just taking the dist out and capping it off where it was at.I'll have to swap my other dist in i think.So you use the cps from the stock system?The one in the dist?i have an 81 motor and had to swap in an 83 cps took some cobbling but it worked.I still have the 81 crank pulley so it has the little triggers on it already i was thinking of doing it that way think it'll work?

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Guest jt240z

Neither the stock 280ZXT trigger wheel or the 280ZXT crank trigger will work with the Haltech in a waste spark setup. The waste spark requires a Home position indicator for cylinder #1 along with a Main trigger for relative position. You can use the 280ZXT distributor, but you need to change out the trigger wheel with one from a 300ZX or Maxima using the VG30 engine. This wheel has a larger slot for the #1 cylinder to identify it's position. If you plan on using a Motronic magnetic type trigger, you need to have that option installed in the E6K. They don't come with it in every unit.

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no no no...

 

You can gut your existing distributor.... lock the mechanical advance and remove the vacuum advance...

 

Crane Cams sells a retrofit now what will fit in the Z's dist.

 

Thats what I am running.

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