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DID i get my 10 sec slip?????


stony

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NOt only No but **** no ... i didnt even break the beams with the rear tires!!!!!! broke a goddamn 300zx turbo stub shaft!!!!!! launched at 2500 rpm i guess there was some slip to that old clutch the new HKS snapped it like a twig.... well back to teh drawing board... next tie i will be at the track will be with a solid rearend and a glide

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sheared it off right where the threads end. exactly the same way the older 240 stubs shear.... if i hadnt upgraded my rears to discs my rear tire would have just popped off. im still in a state of disgust about the whole thing. those stubs should of held alot more then that.

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NOt only No but darn no ... i didnt even break the beams with the rear tires!!!!!! broke a goddamn 300zx turbo stub shaft!!!!!! launched at 2500 rpm i guess there was some slip to that old clutch the new HKS snapped it like a twig.... well back to teh drawing board... next tie i will be at the track will be with a solid rearend and a glide

 

:shock: Damn! That bites. I had high hopes for you, that you could make an independant rear work. I guess you are biting the bullet - sucks that the 300ZX stubs can't handle it - I for sure figured they could take it.

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well any suggestions????? not sure too manu autos can handle 8000 rpm? i know where i can get an adapter to mount the us spec auto but i need to know which one will be best. i was kinda under the impression that a translock hits just as hard if not harder then a clutch

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I use to run a th350 trans before with a 3500 stall, I was able to run 10 sec runs no problem. I sold the car to 1fastz (dean) and he put nos on the same car and ran 9.63@150mph. He a had a early 260z before that would run 10 sec runs before also.

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you have to adjust the mastercylinder rod up at the top of the clutch pedal. i had the same problem. I was afraid that i had to adjust to far the slave would pop out but it didnt and it worked fine. Is your pedal going all the way to the floor?

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yes I adjusted the rod all the way out but still no, my slave has reads 3/4 on the side of it. Maybe I did not bleed it well enough? I orderd a Tilton 7/8" unit just in case.

 

I think the pedal is going all the way to the floor

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this is what i did with my linelock......just get some us spec theaded lines or fittings if you can just the fitting. cut off the stock line as close to the fitting as possible and slip over the fitting that work with the tilton. then reflair the line and your done. it worked for me.... not sure the tilton has the same size lines but if it does should work for you too.

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Stony, a turbo350 or powerglide will work well at 8000 rpm. My buddies turbo stang revs slightly past 8k with powerglide and bested 7.78@180. My other buddy had a rotary car with the turbo350 revving to 9k rpm and bested 9.2@138. Should not be a problem for the transmission, but I will ask specifically.

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Stony, what is the fastest 60' time you have pulled? There are some guys pulling 1.8-1.9's on vary small tires. others pulling 9's in the 1/4 with stock stub axles?!? I wonder if some thing went wrong with your set up ie: the stubs got side loaded or ther were flawed to start with? I dont know, just some ideas :-D

 

Do you have another stub to throw in?

 

by the way thanks for the tip.

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Update, called my buddy with the turbo350 behind his rotary powered RX7. His redline is 10,000 rpm and he has had no problems with the transmission seeing those rpms. BTW, a 3-speed is more suited for your application as it is a street/strip car. The typical rule of thumb for the glide is 3000lbs and 800hp. Although you can use the glide, it may not be best for you.

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