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What else can go wrong???........:-(


80LS1T

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Well I put my LT1 on the scanner today at work...

 

My left O2 is reading about 100mV all the time and my right O2 is reading 800mV all the time. My left one varies a little but not much and my right one is pegged at 800mV. My IAC count is at 32 (Learned) and at 0 when the car is idleing? I dont know what is going on there?

 

Now I thought this was bad but then I drove home....

 

As I headed down one of the main roads in town I started to try to stop for the stop lights up ahead and guess what.....no brakes!!!! :shock: Lucky I dont follow people close cause I still had time to down shift and pull the E-Brake! Then I stared to hear a loud squeeling noise from the front right tire area......So I pulled into a parking lot to see what the deal was with my brakes and this squeel. Once I got around the other side of the car I saw smoke coming out from the right front wheel! :shock: So I pulled the center cap off of my stock Iron Cross rims and smoke comes pouring out the center....yeah I look in and see that I toasted my wheel bearing! :evil: So I decided to do the stupid thing and drive it home (30 miles away! :oops: ) Well I made it home with out any complications but I need a new roter and 2 new bearings for sure! I am going to do both side just to be sure though. The left side will probably go soon anyways!

 

I tell ya nothing can go right!

 

 

Guy

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Tim I actually had all the brakes off and I checked the front bearings and repacked them but I guess I didnt think there was anything wrong with them?

 

Now I have to buy brake parts instead of my body kit from MSA. I really need to paint my car cause I dont like looking at it like this! Its all faded and just not pretty! LOL

 

My car will be down for atleast a week and a half if not two. I have to change the steering gear box, fix the header leak again, to front brakes(again) and install new wheel bearings in front! Then I have to find out whats up with my IAC motor!

 

 

Guy

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Sorry to hear that things are going wrong. Hey, if you need a hand working on anything, just give me a holler. I could use a road trip. Hey, maybe we could hit a few of those hick bars up there and check out some of the corn fed women :D . Just kidding, just kidding :roll: .

 

!M!

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Sorry to hear about the problems. The header issue seems to be a real problem for you, be sure to check it for flatness. Also make sure that the surface is perpendicular to the bolts. Use the blown gasket as an indicator for problem areas. When you replace the wheel bearings be sure to follow the manual (tighten then back off). If you don't back the nut off, you've over tightened the bearings, a sure road to fried bearings.

 

Good luck, hope that helps

 

- Joe

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Well I havent taken off the rotor yet but I ordered 2 rotors and 2 sets of bearings today. The races came with the bearings so I will be putting those in for sure!. Is the spindle part of the strut housing? I dont know if it is damaged or not though, not yet anyways!

 

What vehicle does a Ram Horn exhaust manifold come on? I am thinking about replacing my crappy header with a manifold. This header is just too much of a pain in the a$$!

 

 

Guy

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Good cause I just looked at it and its not good...the outter bearing race welded it self to the spindle :shock::shock: ! NOt to mention all the threads on the outside of the spindle are all chewed up from removing the nut! So yeah Im going to need a new one of those!

 

Guy

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On that o2 sensor. I had a problem like that on my LS1 crate motor. Turned out to be missed wired wiring harness. The left o2 sensor was controling the right side injectors, and the right side o2 sensor was controling the left side injectors. So the richer the one side would get the othe side was being leaned out. If I went WOT ever thing would get better , but after I killed the motor and restarted I have that problem again. :evil:

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If you have an O2 at steady 100mV then it is either not connected or completely dead.

 

I'm also having problems with my motor - running so bad I can no longer drive it. I'm hoping someone on LS1tech.com can come thru with a magic bullet for me - no decent shops around here to take it to.

 

Odd that your bearing blew out because that exact thing happened to me. Car was up on stands for like 18 monhts while I was ostensibly swapping in the LS1. Had about 2K miles on the bearings as I had recently swapped on new brakes. Damndest thing. I never had smoke out of my hub. My spindle had a scratch on it from broken bearing crap roling around in there. Nothing major though. I did of course have to replace the hub on that side. I can almost guarantee you will have to replace your hub.

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Yeah I know I am going to have to replace the hub. I dont even know if Iam going to be able to get the rotor off in one piece or not. Im not going to deal with it till after the weekend though. I have to start looking for a new hub.

 

Does anyone know for sure if the spindle is removable on a 280ZX? It doesnt look like it to me but maybe Im missing something?

 

Guy

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Well here's whats going on....

 

Im picking up the parts that I need to fix my front right strut/spindle problem on Saturday from a fellow Zer in my area! I am getting "new" hub(this is the part that sits inside the rotor, strut housing, steering gear box(mine is leaking pretty bad), and possible a master cylinder.

 

Now about my master cylinder...when I smoked my wheel bearing I also lost all hydraulic braking right at the same time. The resevour is full and I dont see any leaks but the pedal goes straight to the floor and doesnt do anything to stop the car. Could the wheel bearing and braking be related? I dont see how they could? I am going to check my master cylinder tonight or tommorow to see if its bad. I just cant see how they both went out at exactly the same time? :? Or maybe they could have? :roll:

 

Oh and I bought new wheel bearings and races along with new rotors for the front. I needed new ones anyways...the old ones were kinda getting thin! Besides the right front had some major heat damage to it! :shock:

 

I am also going to fix my little header leak and put some new O2 sensors in to see if that will fix my problem. But first I am going to check my O2 wiring to make sure they are wired to the right side of the engine(so that my left O2 isnt controlling my right side injectors and vise versa!) I am also going to finally check for vaccum leaks. I am hope that the new O2's fix my problem though! :D

 

 

Anyways........

 

 

 

Guy

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If the rotor was damaged from the heat that's pretty damn hot :flamedevil: so you may have boiled the fluid in the caliper. Once that happens the fluid turns to gas which becomes compressable, and the pedal goes to the floor.

 

I'd throw the new parts on and bleed the brakes and see what the pedal feels like.

 

Jon

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Well the rotor has some "blueing" on the very inside of it. I suppose it could have gotten hot enough to boil the fluid but it was instantanious when I lost my breaks and bearing. I dont think the fluid could have boiled that quickley.....could it have?

 

Guy

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I've boiled fluid a couple of times on the track. On one occassion in particular, there was no warning at all. All of the other times, there was a sensation that the pedal was engaging lower and the pedal getting slightly soft before it boiled. I got used to what it felt like. If you drove for a mile putting massive amounts of heat into the caliper without touching the brakes, I'm sure that you could have missed the warning signs.

 

You might want to take a look at the caliper on that side too, because you may have damaged the seals with the heat.

 

Jon

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Yeah I guess I could have fried the bearing and then it could have started to heat up the rotor and then boiled the fluid! I never though of that! :D That probably explains that! I did look at the caliper and it appears to be ok. The seals are still holding and dont look damaged. I just want these brakes to hold out until I can upgrade to BIG ONES within the next year! :D

 

 

Guy

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