JKDGabe Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 When I got the car the guage didn't work. So I hooked it up per JTR instructions (all it was lacking was the wire from the alternator to the + terminal on the battery) and it just barely moves when I turn the key on and doesn't move at all when it starts and runs. Yes, the alternator is good. I know I saw a post on this a long time ago but can't find it... is there a way to check it or do I just have to get a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Just put a resistor in series with it and connect to 12V. Using a 5.6 ohm 25 watt resistor will limit the current to 2.14 amps. Most amp gauges have a +/- 10A full scale meter movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 My advice is to ditch the amp gage. The OE shunting resistor across it (in the 240Z) is prone to burn out, and then the milliamp-range meter movement gets the full brunt of the load across the gage terminals and promptly goes up in smoke. Then many parts of your electrical system go dead. Simply remove the lugs from the studs on the gage, and bolt them together with a good sized bolt. If you do this, make sure to use several layers of heat shrink tubing over the bolted connection, and mount the wires near the splice to something so it doesn't flop around. If you leave the gage in, but not working, you can just put both lugs/wires on one of the studs to get around all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB240z Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Corrosion in my fusible link connector (starter to main hot lead) caused my 240 to die a few weeks back, which in turn smoked my AMP gauge. Weird thing is, the gauge still works! I cleaned out all connections under the hood and replaced my fusible link....cranked the car and the AMP readings look bouncy and "normal". I'm wondering if I need to pull the dash and give the AMP meter the axe! Thoughts anybody? My advice is to ditch the amp gage. The OE shunting resistor across it (in the 240Z) is prone to burn out, and then the milliamp-range meter movement gets the full brunt of the load across the gage terminals and promptly goes up in smoke. Then many parts of your electrical system go dead. Simply remove the lugs from the studs on the gage, and bolt them together with a good sized bolt. If you do this, make sure to use several layers of heat shrink tubing over the bolted connection, and mount the wires near the splice to something so it doesn't flop around. If you leave the gage in, but not working, you can just put both lugs/wires on one of the studs to get around all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 I plan to replace my ampmeter with a voltmeter in the near future. The voltmeter tells you a whole lot more and you don't have to worry about having the full amp load coursing through your dash. I do get nostalgic for the bouncy ampmeter though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjc5500 Posted June 17, 2007 Share Posted June 17, 2007 I do get nostalgic for the bouncy ampmeter though. i do too. every time my subs hit, BOUNCY. even with a 1.2f cap it still makes my lights fade and my guage bounce. lol. Id get a volt meter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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