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HybridZ

How do I check my ampmeter?


JKDGabe

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When I got the car the guage didn't work. So I hooked it up per JTR instructions (all it was lacking was the wire from the alternator to the + terminal on the battery) and it just barely moves when I turn the key on and doesn't move at all when it starts and runs. Yes, the alternator is good. I know I saw a post on this a long time ago but can't find it... is there a way to check it or do I just have to get a new one?

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My advice is to ditch the amp gage. The OE shunting resistor across it (in the 240Z) is prone to burn out, and then the milliamp-range meter movement gets the full brunt of the load across the gage terminals and promptly goes up in smoke. Then many parts of your electrical system go dead.

 

Simply remove the lugs from the studs on the gage, and bolt them together with a good sized bolt. If you do this, make sure to use several

layers of heat shrink tubing over the bolted connection, and mount the wires near the splice to something so it doesn't flop around. If you leave the gage in, but not working, you can just put both lugs/wires on one of the studs to get around all that.

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  • 3 years later...

Corrosion in my fusible link connector (starter to main hot lead) caused my 240 to die a few weeks back, which in turn smoked my AMP gauge. Weird thing is, the gauge still works! I cleaned out all connections under the hood and replaced my fusible link....cranked the car and the AMP readings look bouncy and "normal". I'm wondering if I need to pull the dash and give the AMP meter the axe! Thoughts anybody?

 

 

 

 

My advice is to ditch the amp gage. The OE shunting resistor across it (in the 240Z) is prone to burn out, and then the milliamp-range meter movement gets the full brunt of the load across the gage terminals and promptly goes up in smoke. Then many parts of your electrical system go dead.

 

Simply remove the lugs from the studs on the gage, and bolt them together with a good sized bolt. If you do this, make sure to use several

layers of heat shrink tubing over the bolted connection, and mount the wires near the splice to something so it doesn't flop around. If you leave the gage in, but not working, you can just put both lugs/wires on one of the studs to get around all that.

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