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Well, I'm confused now....


auxilary

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This engine is a very popular transplant for the 510 down here in Aus.

I say go the v8.

1. You cant beat the v8 sound in a zed for getting the looks

2. You will not get the tyre frying torque from a sr20det.

3. If you enjoy screaming the tits out of your engine to get big power, then go for it. I like the idea of hardley touching the throttle and knowing you will accelerate like no tomorrow.

Just my 20cents worth.

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Ah, yes. I also enjoy having a large amount of torque and some horsepower on tap instantly whenever I want, that's why I wouldn't personally do a turbo swap. Hell, all I have is a carb'd 305 and I can accelerate as quickly as I please (most of the time) with just a little twitch of the throttle. It's really such a different beast than with the pukey L28 (slam on it, watch the tach for redline, shift, repeat...). Also, I get about the same mileage (23) as pre-swap since neither configuration has had OD.

Cheers, Pat

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Anonymous

Hi guys

 

My first post here. I've been browsing this site for a while now, trying to learn about the whole V8Z thing. I initally thought of the SR20DET or R25DET(more expensive) swap, yet I thought why not look at the whole V8 issue.

 

To be honest i've never driven a V8 ( yes, its true :shock: ) I'm down in the Caribbean, and i've grown up (still young..20) with Hondas, and around me, all JDMs, hence all i know are high revvers 8000RPM redlines, not shifting at 5500RPM (VTEC only just kicks in on the Type S (lol)). I've also grown with what u would call an 'import scene' kinda thing (amerian cars make up a very small % of cars on the island) so the mods i know of for such cars ( uh know, turbos, intercoolers, VTec controlers.....all kinda of electronics, etc)

 

In this thread the focus is on a track car, hence i figured for a drag car, which is the direction i would like to be heading (we only have one american car draging, an old camero), you guys would recommend a chevy right?

 

...i've been searching around the net to learn more about the sbc 350, still not sure what stock Hp/Tq figure are like.....the most i saw was at 210Hp, which is lower than the 250hp in the S15's engine. Love the torque figurs though. Plz help me on the figures, i'm kinda lost here. I also realised the engines are Carb., definatly not use to that, more of a EFI era for me.....is the EFI 350's more difficult to swap and modify? Is the carb. better? And would the 350 be easier and cheaper to get up to approx 350Hp as compared to the SR20DET or get in the 1/4 mile 12sec range?

 

The 350s i saw were like $1100, for the block and $250 for the head, they were rebuilt though( @ chevy-350-engines.com).....is that a good price? Would still have to get tranny, ecu and all that stuff.

 

Thats all for now, i found a guy near me who knows a bit about the chevy blocks (hence i wouldn't have to be asking too many newbie questions here...sorry about that) , but i'll not be getting a chance to meet him yet.

 

Want to have the first 350Z down here , i this case the 350 actually being 5.7cc :twisted:

 

Thanx for the help guys.

 

Cornell

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sure' date=' just ignore my question.

 

Thanks.[/quote']

 

Don't know off the top of my head, but I am sure if you did a search you could find your answer. Quick answer is the L24 engine and tranny weights about the same as a V8 with aluminum heads, intake and water pump, since cars with such a V8 mod don't gain much weight. An L24 probably weights more than an LS1.

 

TeamludeS, a stock LS6 engine in a vette is rated at 405 HP. LS1's in Camaros and such are rated at 330 HP. The slightly older LT1/LT4's came in 285 hp to 340 HP versions. All of the above will have considerably more HP than the 4 bangers at low RPM's.

 

I want to challange peoples assumption that the lighter SR20 engines will produce a better handling track car. There is such a thing as throttle response. I find it hard to believe that these little engines could be pumped up to 500+ HP without significant turbo lag. Turbo lag can make a car difficult to drive, especially for an inexperienced driver.

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OK I just got back from the HKS drag comp here in Okinawa Japan. I saw a S30 Z with the SR20 DET swap. It looked nice. You can see it on my site under "CAR SHOW". It had a huge Turbo on it and ran a 7.1 sec in the 150 meters. Track too short for a full 1/8th. That is 487.5 feet. I wonder what that equates to in the 8th and 1/4? HorsePower? I dont know the trap speed. It was decent. The fastest car was a 5.3 sec run. There was so many skyline GTRs with the same ole RB setup out there it was not even amuzing. Dont get me wrong, I like the RB26 Turbo setup in a Z, but DAMN everyone basically had the same ole thing. 80% of the people had the same car and engine. Just goes to show you that theres not much flexibility over here. If they could only understand what being original meant. Besides the SR20 DET Z, I would have been the talk of the show regardless of the times I would have run. Theres nothing like the sound of a V8 open headers running down the track. According to similiar horsepower and weight consideration, I expect that my Z will run a 6.2 or so at this track. I will run in Dec at the next meet after I get it tuned and replace the tranny etc. I have to run in the open class because I will be the only V8 there! What a fricken RUSH that will be. As far as I see it, I will beat 80% of the cars there as ther were only about 5 or so in the 5 sec range and maybe 10 in the 6 sec range. The majority were i the 7s to 9s. The Rotaries were impressive but not that impressive considering the money being dumped into these projects. A nicely setup V8 non Turbo with LSD could have easily been the star of the show here today. We all know hooking up isnt a problem if its built right. I am talking about a 1/4 track car for this event only. Slalom builds are another story. More later! :D

 

CorZette

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1) Destroke an LT1 (as some others have suggested) to get maximum revs and a higher power band. You get your EFI and a V8!!

 

IMHO, waste of time. Unless you go aftermarket FI your not going to rev over 7k and we have done that on the stock bottoms all day long, and who really wants a cam so nasty that you need 9,500 RPM?

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  • 4 months later...
Guest haltrapp

ok, can you send me a link to where you found the sr20DET for that much, with the whole kit, i was planning this for my 86 300zx... the n/a motor just isn't enough jump for me. Also, i was wondering if the engine mounts right up, or if there's lots of drilling and stuff involved.

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Guest d3finitlymaybe

The Sr20 is a great little motor, i think it would be better on a road track than the v8 sinply because the higher rev's would let you keep it in gear longer, and use more of that power. I dont think a 500hp monster sr20 would do well tho, due to the turbo lag. If you put the sr20 against the firewall i bet the power to weight would be close to 50/50 and might even end up ass-heavy. Remember though, that the sr20 never came to the states, so replacement parts, and performance parts will be expensive, where as the sbc 350 is easy to come by, and has tons of parts that are easy to come by. In my opinion its a close one, but i would pick the sr20 just because i love high redlines, and the sound of a mean BOV. :twisted:

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I am gonna throw out a few things here. how about a CA18DET? just as light as an SR, only it has an Iron block. not to mention they routeinly(sp?) rev to 85.K and beyond on stock set-ups. plus, you can get a 2.0L kit for them. lets see what else... how about an RB20DET? venus auto has a sale on skyline RB20DET front clips for $1200 + shipping right now. those are solid motors and the basis for an RB24. those rev to 9K if properly built. they make some nice power too. Another option to consider is an FJ20ET. old skool motor but a badass none the less. puts the SR to shame in toqrue figures. they are the stuff of legends over in japan. try FJ20.com

 

just trying to help! lol

 

McAdam

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  • 10 months later...

The 3SGTE would be a GREAT motor for the Z. It's far superior to the SR (as long as it's the gen3 or 4 3S). That's what I was planning on using in my future project. However, after careful thought and calculation, I've opted to go w/ the SR.

 

3SGTE pros:

 

The 3S utilizes a direct acting cams and has the shim under bucket (=capable of higher RPM, if needed :D )

 

The 3S makes more torque than the SR (at comparable power levels).

 

The 3S utilizes D-jetro, whereas the SR still uses a MAF.

 

Iron Block vs Alum block

 

 

3SGTE cons: COST. . . that's pretty much about it...

 

FWD tranny. . . either an Altezza tranny will bolt on, but is expensive and weak. The 1JZ tranny will fit, but will require a bell housing from Toysport. (The durability of the tranny will be much greater than the SR one though)

 

Wiring. . . unless you're going to go w/ a stand alone, the wiring MAY be a PITA since it's designed for a mid-engine.

 

Intake manifold. . . It goes over the motor, so it may or may not fit w/o using custom, or the Altezza intake manifold.

 

You could bypass all of these problems by using the Altezza front clip, but they are VERY hard to come by, and are VERY VERY expensive. . . which reinforces my point. . . COST

 

I'd Love to see someone do this swap. I think the 3S-GTE is one of the best, if not the best, 4 cylinder that came out of Japan in regards to power potential and durability. I sure would love to do it, but it's just a little too rich for my blood, and I can't justify spending that much when I can get the SR, and keep a lot of the niceties (like power steering, AC etc)

 

Kenny

http://www.rbmotoring.com

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If you're going with a standalone, then you just eliminated the MAF system on the SR20DET. (like I did)

 

The valvetrain can be cheaply protected with a rocker stopper kit ($70-100) Or you can go solid lash (the hard way, but will be a bulletproof head to 9000rpm) The first thing to go then would be the bearings, just like any other nissan motor.

 

 

The SR20DET also has a really good HP/Torque bias until you get over 400hp. Most any 4 banger over 400hp loses its HP/torque ratio, though.

 

My last SR20DET made 395rwhp and 362ft/lbs with stock internals. (no cams)

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