Deep

I'm not much of a Ford guy, but 302 HO or 2.3T...

Good call.

If you want something different and less expensive, look into the 3RZ-FE from Toyota trucks, its a 2.7L 4 Cyl that loves the boost. Example, http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0902_2002_toyota_celica_gts_racecar/

Aren't the Vortec V6's iron block/heads? Even if they had AL heads, an LS1 would be lighter/cheaper to make big #'s from.

Speaking from experience, I'd stay away from RE92's, they're all around craptacular tire, unless you're looking to save a bit on gas. But then the price per tire compared to some Khumo's kinda kills that.

Looks nice btw, hard to tell what colour that is, looks either metallic grey or maybe black with flake.

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?ppuser=8639&cat=500

You need a little Google in your life homie.

Hard to tell from those pics, but my guess would be Appliance?

???

FB RX7 + 302 TE72 Corolla + 3TC KP61 Starlet + 3TC Datsun 510 + KA24DE MGB + Olds 215 V8 MK I/MK II VW Golf + 1.8T Hyundai Sonata + EJ20 MX6 GT + 20G turbo upgrade ...

Your car is gonna look like a pitbull on juice.

So... the answer is both.

You must have balls of titanium, or some insane tuning abilities.

Agreed, wheel manufacturers design the wheel to fit a wider range of applications, which means that the wheel doesn't sit on the hub as its supposed to, but sits on the wheel studs. Hubcentric rings are cheap.

Its definately a 2JZ

Is the tape before or after the AFM? Try running the car with the AFM unplugged and see if there's a difference, run it for a while, maybe 5-10 mins. Edit: I just realized that you have a parts car. Try swapping the AFM and intake (the one without duct tape on it) over to this car and see if it makes a difference. A crappy AFM combined with a massive air leak could cause some of the above issues.

http://www.howstuffworks.com

My $0.02, go with a subdued colour that doesn't scream attention whore, but that is slick enough for people to comment "I never thought that could look so good..." Something along the lines of Honda's Championship White with the afore mentioned BMW Steel Grey for the tail panel and wheels, monochrome, smooth, clean and a little oldschool meets high-tech. For extra points, replace the the front and rear turn signals with somthing more flush mounted and delete all emblems except the 'Z' on the b-pillars. If you've got a good profile pic of your car, I'll 'chop it for you

He must have some sort of contempt for his own life.

You'll also want to add coil/ignitor to your list. slownrusty, your turbo 20V is just evil.

I think you pretty much answered your own question. Combine that with a super smooth curve, reliability, cost and bling factor, it makes more sense. There are turbo MR2 guys that ditch the 3SGTE in favor of Supercharged Toyota 1MZ and 3VZ V6s, they don't have the potential of a built 3SGTE, but for torque, drivability and reliability, its hard to beat. I'm guessing the same sort of reasoning went into this, even if he started with a CA18DET or SR20DET (its RHD.)

Have you considered the Toyota 4AG 20V? Its a 1.6L four rated at between 170 (silvertop) and 185HP (blacktop) and bolts up to a T50 RWD tranny. The only problem is that you'd need to either fab a new intake manifold or cut and reweld the TB on the opposite side to fit it for RWD. Its a somewhat popular swap for RWD Corollas, so there is info out there on how to get it to all work. Its a pretty trick engine that comes stock with ITBs, VVTi, crazy high redline and good aftermarket support. In an 1800lbs car, I think it would work well. They're cheap too.

What a dumbass, my condolences.