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Low $$$ Z car SBC conversion: possible or not???


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Hi! Im totaly new to this and desperatly need help.....I need to know (from people who did the SBC conversion) the aproximate price of the total conversion. My total budget is 2257 dollars (im 17) My parents have agreed to buy the body of the car once I have an engine that runs. I have always loved Z cars, but thought that they were way, way to expensive for the power they delivered. With a SBC thats all changed right!?!?! OK here are my questions, and yes I did search and find most of the answers but my main problem is $$$!

 

1. What is the best/CHEAPEST body to use? Which one is relatively easy to find in Houston area? *RUST?? What does the body need to have? Which parts are easily added or need to be changed anyways? What are the most important things to look for?

 

2. What would the cheapest conversion kit cost? What would be the easiest to follow and make the most 'bang for the buck'? People here seem to recommend the JTR...but that seem alot of $$$ to me.

 

3. What engine/trans combo is best for budget use? What would be a good price range on used motor/trans? What to avoid/to buy?

 

Anybody who has done this... please help! Also what realistic performance figures might one expect from a low $$$ build?

 

I am planning this to be my Autotech project for the whole year, so i got plenty of time but very little $$$. The car I want would be a no troubles daily driver that can still haus ass on weekends!

thanks for any help...

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Igor,

Need a bit more info on your SKILLZ. Can you fab stuff, do you have power tools, welders etc.

If you can fab stuff, then all I would buy from the JTR kit are the setback plates and spacers for the motor mounts.

Depending on the smog testing requirements in your area, get a model that is exempt.

Check the floors and frame rails and under the battery tray for rust especially.

LT1 V8s are good performers and can be had for around $1000 to $1500 if you keep looking. Check ebay and the classifieds. T56 or 4sp Auto...depending on your preference, but auto may be cheaper and easier to install. Remember all the little things like:

Driveshaft,

Exhaust

brakes

belts

hoses

nuts, bolts, wiring and so on and so on.

You will have to be VERY frugal and make alot of the stuff yourself and look for very good deals to stay within your budget, but it is possible.

Tim

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Guest Anonymous

we have all kinds of power and hand tools in our autotech shop. (AutoTech = automotive Technology... its an in school shop that teaches how to fix cars, how cars work, etc. it lets you work on a project car all year long) We also have a metal shop and one of my friends knows hot to weld/fab metal parts.. I have done wood and metal shop so yes i can make the very basic of parts...but not anything near complex...

I would rather not start the project and settle for something less ambitious (just a used car) that to mess it up right in the middle or run out of $$$. oh also my dad built his own motorcycle from parts, and he agreed to help me somewhat.

just for laughs our fam. has had 3 nissans/datsuns in the past 6 years: a altima, a stanza, and a sentra....so i wouldnt mind a fourth ;)

 

Also, How would the foreign transmition hook up to the Z's drivetrain???

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It`s really hard to put a set price on the swap. So many things can effect the end cost. such as what engine/drivetrain you go with. I would recomend finding a donor car with a complete running drivetrain,you will have more of the small miscelanious parts, and have parts to sell off for extra cash ;)

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Originally posted by Tomahawk Z:

If you have not get the JTR Manual and read it. I have read it over 100 times and still finding it interesting reading.

I would highly recommend this as well: the JTR conversion manual is your STARTING POINT!

 

If you don't lind keeping a Z stock for the most part (this does not include swapping the motor) then you can get away with the conversion on the cheap. BUT, you must obtain a used engine for cheap. Personally I would NOT get a fuel injected motor for the car just yet. A carbed engine should run you less money and be far less complex to swap in. This is your first project and you really want to FINISH it by the year's end. All the other goodies like lowering springs and alloy wheels can be put on much later when you have the cash. You can buy a running carbed motor from a Chevy wrecking yard--just make sure you go to a reputable one. Still, you may find a better deal from a personal wrecked car in your neighborhood; it ran up to the accident!

 

Buy a Z car that will be smog exempt in your area. Check with your local Air Resources Board to find out the answer, then look for cars in those years. The first gen (S30 body style) Z cars are from 1970 to 1978.

 

Again, you must buy or borrow a JTR manual to start with, because it will guide you right along and give you diagrams for the conversion parts you or a friend can fab up in metal shop.

 

Davy

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Igor,

 

I'm in the same boat as you. 17 and hardly any money. Though I have manage to put together an LT1 260z for about $3000. This includes the cost of the car, drivetrain, and my big brakes (which haven't been installed yet). I paid $600 for my 260 (running well and even had a set of webers on it), $1500 for the LT1 and 4l60e shipped to a near by big city, and the rest is the little stuff (new bushings, tie rods, driveshaft, etc.) I saved a ton of money by fabricating my own parts. I paid 35 bucks for 400lbs of scrap steel that I used build all the mounts, brackets, tranny cross member, etc. and still had tons left over for the little custom stuff that I ran into, then some for a friends motor swap, and I still have some around. That saves about $300 right their. My autotech teachers was a big help to. He had tons of hookups for me, not to mention the afters hours he let me stay in the shop. Selling stuff you don't need off of your Z helps to pay for some stuff aswell. Don't forget to get the JTR manual, that is the most important step, and then memorize it. Any way good luck buddy.

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Igor, you're a pretty keen guy. Nobody I know that's my age is cool enough to build a V8Z ;) I'm turning eighteen next month and leaving my car at home while I'm at college, unfortunately. I suppose I'll make the trip down whenever possible (two hour drive) to work on it and get it running. I'll admit that I've got about $10k into my car so far. I'm really not sure how I've managed it so far, except that I owe my parents a LOT of money :D I sold off a lot of stuff on eBay, plus I work, and have been saving for a long time (since I was around 11). I think with your budget look for a non-running donor that you can fix up once you've got the motor swapped. Do an automatic swap, that'll be cheap and easy (believe me, I've had about three month's total worth of setbacks because of clutch difficulties). Look for an overdrive tranny if you can but if your budget's really small a TH350 will be fine, you'll just have to deal with high RPMs on the freeway. I started out doing a budget swap and ended up with everything that was going into the engine bay being brand new, plus a fuel cell, full aircraft braided lines/fittings (those REALLY add up) full dual exhaust, and so on, and so on.. I think the place to start is the JTR manual. Read it over and over, memorize it, it's your bible, especially for a budget swap like yours. You can go straight from the book and not have to work anything out yourself if you're using the stock fuel tank/etc.

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Igor,

My first conversion was a low budget project. I had a total of $1200 in it, though that was 1988 dollars. I started with a 77 Z with a bad motor, and a wrecked 77 Camaro Z-28. Everything for the conversion came from the Camaro; engine,trans.,radiator (re-cored to proper width 4core) accelerator pedal/cable, modified speedo cable, shortened driveshaft, etc. The JTR manual is a must. I made all the setback plates, spacers, trans. mount, etc. myself. Purchased parts were driveshaft yoke to differential flange, various fittings, 1/2" fuel line, electric fuel pump, block hugger headers, etc.

It's possible, just be a scrounger, and look for deals.

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i already had the car and motor...and i have $1900 into it as it sits including DR`s and Victor jr intake....i could have done it a lot cheeper going to swapmeets and what not,but it was faster and easier to buy new.

off the top of my head...

JTR L/R set back plates,trans crossmember...111.00

carb 830db....380.00

victor jr.intake.....170?

hooker headers....134.00

r200 rears (2)...300.00

driveshaft and adapter...110.00

exshust....340.00

dragradials...208.00

and the nickle and dime stuff that always get you!!!!

 

it really would be cheaper to buy one already done and modify it the way you want as time goes on...if you want to build one get one that`s rust free in the frame and floorboards...the motorwork is easy...strengthening the body for your motor isn`t......mark

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Guest Craig280z

I just got mine running.

 

I spent about $3500 putting an LT1 in my 78. Not including the $900 I paid for the running L28 car when I bought it.

 

This includes

$1500 for the 95 LT1 and 4L60E, wiring harness, and computer

JTR mounting kit, griffen radiator, headers

Paying someone about $700-$800 labor to do all the work for me including running the exhaust.

 

I have a total of about $4500 in the car and it needs body work, paint, interior, tires, bushings, suspension, blah, blah blah

 

Craig

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Guest Anonymous

OK guys thx for the encouragement! The first thing i will do is get that JTR conversion manual and read read read. We'll see how things go from there. Just out of curiosity... are there any people near Houston which have the V8Z?

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  • 6 years later...

Good thread, ive found it difficult to get basic information with the search because there is so much complex stuff choking the basics. I am on a budget too as i just moved to America and the gov doesnt let you work for 6 months. I have a 280z and have had trouble with the stock engine. I figure it was going to cost a lot to fix it so i want to do the sbc conversion. Yes i have the JTR manual on the way and cant wait to read it.

I have been searching craigslist every day for a doner car as im looking for something with radiator, 350, manual transmission and all the gizzmos. I have been specifically looking at Camaros as they seem to be cheap and have all i need. I did some research on the camaro V8s and they seem really weak in the late 70s and early 80s. I would have expected well over 200hp from the 305 but they are like 145hp!

I would love some help as to what year and type of sbc people are using. Id love the LS2 but thats not happening, as i want to get this done for $2000 as well.

Also I want to have it done in 2 weeks (i have a lot of spare time). Is this doable? People say the engine swap is easy and its like all the other stuff that takes the time. Im not doing brakes or suspension yet, just the swap.

 

In Australia you need to get an engineers certificate to register a modified car, will i need anything like that in the US?

We dont have smog either in Australia and im worried ill put the time, effort and money into this only to be knocked back because of emissions. My car is a 75 and it DOES require emissions test here in CO. How can i find out about this stuff?

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First, welcome to the US! From the thoughtfulness of your writing - and the fact that you are doing your homework - we'll be glad to have you!

 

The 2 week thing is straight out. There are a lot of details you'll need to work out, more than you'd expect. The JTR manual will be helpful there. Even without the "while I'm here I may as well..." syndrome, collecting the parts will take that long. You might be able to pull it off in a month of steady daily work.

 

A Camaro is a good candidate as donor. There are many variations on drivetrains, some of them fairly high output. Note though that most were sold with 6 cylinder motors, the V8's are not universal. Also, most will have automatic transmissions - OK by me, but a lot of people want manuals.

 

In the US, you don't need a certificate to modify the car. You don't even need common sense. However, I believe CO has periodic inspections - perhaps someone that knows can chime in. I live in California, and the smog "thing" is a little complex; though all cars are supposed to have smog gear installed and functioning, there's no requirement for inspection. So, unless you're pulled over for a road inspection, nobody will know. Sort of a wink wink nod nod kind of thing. I can't believe CO is tougher than California.

 

With regard to motors, my car currently has a "crate" 350, modified.

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hoov100, lighten up...

1981 and older vehicles are tested with the two-speed idle test. Although emissions limits are listed on this page for only 1970 through ..., all older vehicles are subject to testing unless they fit certain testing exemption categories. Pollutants are sampled and measured in parts per million. Oxides of nitrogen are not measured in the idle test.

 

Emissions Limits for

1981 & Older Vehicles

Model Year CO HC

1981 1.5 400

1980 1.5 400

1979 2.0 400

1978 3.0 400

1977 3.0 400

1976 3.5 600

1975 3.5 600

1974 4.5 1000

1973 4.5 1000

1972 4.5 1000

1971 4.5 1000

1970 and older 5.5 1000

It used to be 74 and earlier was exempt from visual, 75 and up had to have everything emission related that came with the vehicle, regardless it had to pass the numbers. That was a really long time ago, so check: http://www.aircarecolorado.com/default.htm give them a call.

Here in north colorado, once you passed the first test then get collector plate status, you're exempt from test there after. Laws are always up for change as a new emission bill is in the works.

 

2 weeks and $2K? Not likely, but who can say what you can dig up and your mechanical skills are. Long before there was HybridZ, and JTR was an unknown I managed to throw together a Procharged V6 with a 700R4 in one football season, in my spare time. My wife was a big fan so I slipped out to the garage during games. No helpful diagrams or internet. Everyone's results will vary. Good luck and welcome to Colorado.

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