auxilary Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Ah yes, failure. It's that aspect of humanity that makes you realize that if you can't do something well, learn to do it poorly. Today we attempted another trial fit of the rotary into the Z. Word of advice = don't try this unless extremely bored or want to be different. Either way, those aren't good excuses. Today my buddy rob and I, along with 73BOTIZ and his son, who stopped by later, attempted this dumb maneuver Rob and I take to taking apart the rotary down to a shortblock. or, medium block... whatever. the rotors and eccentric shaft are still sealed, but intake, exhaust and turbo are off the motor. Into the Z bay it goes Well what do you know, it fits! I can almost use the stock transmission x-member Crap. How do we run the steering shaft through the mount that'll sit in the middle? drill a big hole in the mount? hehe See these? stock twin turbos. They won't fit in here. This means I'll have to get a t04 turbo and route it to the front. Oil pan hangs 1" below the crossmember/frame rails. I have an rx7 oilpan which I think it shorter, this may help if it bolts up. tranny sits a bit high.. cliff notes: 1. turbos won't clear the side, too close to the frame rail 2. oil pan sits too low for comfort 3. difficult to line up transmission without lowering the motor more than it's lowered now. 4. steering column routing? damn.. well, I think we can manage something. just won't be ready for MSA this year. Oh yeah, and if anyone else wants to do a rotary, DON'T! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Tranny fits in there pretty good. You could always go dry sump and NA Do they make top mount turbo manifolds for rotaries? I think that would help solve that issue some. Could always add a u joint in the steering column to get around the mount, or drill a hole. Anyways I think youre doing alright for a swap with no documentation. Cmon, get it ready for motorsport, were planning a gumbrall rally up there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Ummm, this swap is starting to look expen$ive. All part of the learning curve I guess. Will you continue or scrap this idea? Remember: a turbocharged LT1 can't be all that bad, Alex. Just a thought. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 expensive depends on if aux has to make his own turbo manifold, then it starts piling up. Turbocharged Lt1, like thats ever going to happen ooooooooooooooh, whats up now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 > 1. turbos won't clear the side, too close to the frame rail Notch and reinforce the frame rail. > 2. oil pan sits too low for comfort Build a shield. > 3. difficult to line up transmission without lowering the motor > more than it's lowered now. Lower the motor. > 4. steering column routing? Put a hole through the mount. Alex, stop thinking "in the box." What if the front crossmember is repalced? What if the whole unit can move forward a few inches? What if the whole unit moved back a few inches? You're just talking about labor time if you've got a welder. It shouldn't be that expensive and you'll learn how to weld. Or you can bring it down to SoCal and I'll get the whole shebang installed - for a price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Strange world. I've got a buddy who is putting an LS1 into his RX7. Tired of blown apex seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Hang in the Aux. You're going where no gearhead has gone before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 15, 2003 Author Share Posted December 15, 2003 John, Stop thinking in "only a racecar" terms I'd like to be able to drive it on the street, and the oilpan already hangs too low on a low car. I don't have the knowhow/tools/funds to do most of the work you're talking about. The shield idea was already in mind for the oilpan. When I said the frame rail is too close, I meant that there's 4" of clearance between the frame rail and the motor. The stock manifolds and turbos are 8" across, I can't very well notch a 3" frame rail by 4" Keep in mind that I don't have the resources that you do, I wish I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Alex, What about "mid-engined"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 15, 2003 Author Share Posted December 15, 2003 Strange world. I've got a buddy who is putting an LS1 into his RX7. Tired of blown apex seals. Apex seals blow when the motor's not properly tuned. Any time the motor goes lean, apex seals go "pop" and that's the end of the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 I don't have any rotary knowlege. That's what he told me when I asked him why he was doing the swap. He's an automotive research engineer so I'm sure he knows what he's talking about. I don't think it HP motivated. The LS1 is going into his autox RX7, and car and driver were good enough driver to get TTOD and top PAX any time he felt like it (that's every event I've seen him in) with the rotary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 15, 2003 Author Share Posted December 15, 2003 gramercy: well, yeah, I meant that in stock form, apex seals don't really just go out... well, on FDs it's a common issue, but not in other turbo rotaries. (13b-rew motor, mine's a 13b-re). john: technically, it's a midengined car. The block's behind the front crossmember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Would tilting the engine over a few degrees be of any benefit on the turbo installation? It may also give some extra room on the oil pan issue as well IF you're up to custom oil pan fabrication? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 15, 2003 Author Share Posted December 15, 2003 hm, another thing to try later on. We didn't have enough time yesterday, but I'll look into that. The thing is the stock intake manifold's pretty high, so if I tilt it, it may not clear the hood. That introduces the requirement for a cowl hood (Davy, you got a spare one! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Sounds like the perfect opportunity for some kind of custom off-set vent, hood scoop, bulge, or what-not, that would say "this powerplant is different." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 15, 2003 Author Share Posted December 15, 2003 I figured the plates FLM TRWR would be a good start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumbo240ez Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 I agree with everything John Coffey said... Notch the frame and make a hole in the mount and make a bash plate for the oil pan. It's looking good Alex! JUST DO IT! jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted December 15, 2003 Author Share Posted December 15, 2003 jon, so, will you be coming by with your mig to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumbo240ez Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 two words... Mike Dennis, the man with 2 first names.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 will you be coming by with your mig to do this? Go buy yourself a MIG welder (Lincoln 135 or Miller 135) and related equipment. You should be able to pickup the welder everything else you'll need for less then $800. Take a class at the local ROP or community college. You should be able to do ALL the work on your car yourself and you'll develop a valuable skill that will stay with you the rest of your life and make your chosen hobby LOTS more enjoyable. That sense of frustration and failure will vanish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.