240hoke Posted December 30, 2003 Share Posted December 30, 2003 Well i took my vavle cover and intake manifold over to have them powder coated wrinkle black. i was planning on doing the i/c piping the same color, but the guys there wanted to do them in ceramic insead not just becasue they can see high temps but it would also help keep them from soaking in heat. Would you? a.) powder coat them wrinkle black to match b.) ceramic coat them silver c.) ceramic coat them black -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted December 30, 2003 Share Posted December 30, 2003 Ceramic Black if you want to match Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 30, 2003 Author Share Posted December 30, 2003 am i making a mistake doing everything black, whats you guys opinions? its not too late for me too change it now. Sorry for the rambling but i just cant make up my mind, i havent seen to many others z's to put just whats its going to look like in my head, I was going to try and go for a black out look on this engine but im not too sure. Here's what it looked like before, butr the polishing was crude and i hate having to keep up with it anyway..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 It's just a matter of preference. Do what you think is best. I have seen red crinkle finish that I thought was cool; black is fine too. I am partial to Cermakrome because I like shiny objects Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest szlash280z Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 hey 240hoke, that's interesting, you had almost the same color setup that I have! thanks for posting that picture, that really helps me out. I was dying trying to think of how I was going to do my intercooler piping. I have the volvo IC with the in and outs on oposite ends and knew I wanted the cool air with the shortest route, but I didn't know how I was going to run the pipe from the turbo to the right front! Now I know! thanks so much! what dual efan setup do you have? it looks very thin (bonus!) is that the Ford Taurus fan? this is mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted January 10, 2004 Author Share Posted January 10, 2004 They are just two generic electric fans, I bought them at BSR i believe they are 10" fans maybe 12"'s. Anyway, pretty simple to hook up, i just used a auto relay from radioshack (30 amps i think) and a cheap thermostat switch from napa to run the grounds to the relay. The fans seem to draw alot of power though when they kick in. I can hear a noticable change in the fuel pump sound lol. -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 This may be a bit odd of a suggestion, but why don't you have them Cermacote them on the INSIDE, and after it's cured and baked on, have them cap the ends with some silicone plugs and wrinkle-coat the outside. The ceramic coating need only be on one surface to perform it's heat barrier function, so do it on the inside, and then you can wrinkle the outside so it all looks stealthy... You of course have the shortest run fof piping from the intercooler to the T/B on the T/B side of the car, so it minimizes heat soak. I can't tell you how many cars I've seen run the hot turbo outlet into the closest I/C connection, and then run the COOLED piping all the way across the front of the radiator back to the throttle body! Uh, when the turbo outlet is 230+ degrees, running it another 18 or 20" before it enters the I/C will not make any difference in heat getting into the airstream--if anything, it lets it cool slightly beofer it hits the I/C. Of course leaving the I/C, the best thing you can do is go with the shortest run straight to that T/B! Come to think of it, I'd only cermacote the piping to the T/B, as I don't see heat soaking into the hotside pipe as anythign worth worrying aobut. That would be cheaper, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 I suppose it can make a small difference running the IC outlet as short as possible to the throttle body. But with the large volume of air moving, and the marginal amount of surface area of the short pipe, there is not much heat lost or gained in the piping relative to the heat lost in the IC. But I agree it's the best way to run it, and that is a very nice "set of pipes"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted January 12, 2004 Author Share Posted January 12, 2004 Hey TonyD good suggestions. Wish I would have thought about that. I went ahead an had them do the vavle cover and intake wrinkle black and the I/C pipes in flat black ceramic. Should be finshed somtime this week. Man o man Im getting stoked, about to have the car back together, hopefully this week... anyway ill post pics in a few days -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean73 Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Since I am in the process IC pipe plumbing, I'd like to explore Tony D's ideas about IC pipe routing a bit further. I wonder what the effects of routing the cool side of the IC pipe in front of the radiator would be. I can see why you would not want the cool air to be re-heated, that's obvious. But how much re-heating could actually take place? An argument to the contrary is that the charge air is moving at several hundred feet per second (roughly ~250 ft/sec for a 300 HP engine and 2.25" pipe). Therefore, a column of air inside 2.5 feet of IC pipe is only exposed to the IC pipe for .01 seconds. Additionally, only a small fraction of the charge air would come in contact with the walls of the plumbing. Add to that a ceramic coating on the IC pipe, and I wonder what the effects would be. Of course, whatever the effects may be, it would seems to be amplified in slow speed driving, where the air velocity is slower, and underhood heat can build up. I don't know what the right answer is, and I would error on the side of caution. However, in my situtation I can see that it's logistically easier to route the cool side of the IC plumbing in front of the radiator. It's not too late for me to re-route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 I agree that the speed of the charge air and the small surface area of the pipe insides will have a minimal effect on the air temperature. I had my pipes chromate coated (black), just because that's what was available, and it prevents the corrosion of steel. But I do not have a nice looking engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 I agree that the speed of the charge air and the small surface area of the pipe insides will have a minimal effect on the air temperature. I'm with SleeperZ and Sean73 on this - I don't think it's going to make any measurable difference. But if you want to be anal, you should remember that the coloring changes how much the pipe will conduct heat, not necessarily how much it will dissipate heat from the pipe. For instance, coating the pipe black makes it conduct heat more easily. So, if the surrounding environment is hotter than the inside of the pipe, then the black coating will make it absorb heat from the outside, wihich is the opposite from what you want. This will almost certainly be the case where the pipes are near the exhaust manifold. Even if the air in the pipe is 300degF, the manifold will be at least 800degF. Out in front of the radiator, the black pipe will probably radiate it's heat away from the pipe, but again, this depends on what is near it. Remember that we are talking about radiant heat, which is not necessarily the air temp. So, if the pipe is close to the radiator, there is still a very good chance that the I/C pipe could actually be cooler than the temp of the radiator, in which case you would still be absorbing heat into the I/C pipe. So, I would think that if you are really worried about this, it would be better to coat everything in a light color, since the engine bay has so many items in it that are likely to be hotter than the I/C pipe. For what it's worth, I have both the I/C pipes and the exhaust manifold coated a light color in my car, just to keep radiant heat transfer to a minimum, because I'm anal, too. Again, though - I seriously doubt it will make a measurable difference no matter what color you make it, so you might as well pick a color that you like. One more thing - looking at the routing that you used, there is most likely no need to use ceramic coatings on the I/C pipes - regular powder coating is usually good to something like 450degF, and I doubt that you'll get the pipes hotter than that - especially if you use a light color. Have you looked at any other colors? Most powder coating shops have a really wide selection of really interesting colors to choose from these days - there is really no need to limit yourself to just wrinkle black or silver (unless that's what you like, which is fine). Have you seen the "Black Chrome" color, for instance? That would still fit in with your original idea, but is a bit more unsual... My pipes are powder coated in "Almost Chrome", and I've not had any temp problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z Turbo Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 I'm with SleeperZ and Sean73 on this - I don't think it's going to make any measurable difference. But if you want to be anal' date=' [/quote'] Tim, did you say ANAL? [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roggaman Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 am i making a mistake doing everything black' date=' whats you guys opinions?[/quote'] I would keep some balance with, say, 2 or 3 colors and stick to that over the whole car (excluding the exterior color) For example silver,black and red, like I did (I know, the blue hoses has to go). A shame to not highlight such a beutiful engine as a turboed L28 is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted January 15, 2004 Author Share Posted January 15, 2004 Thanks for the replies guys Should be getting the parts back tomarrow. I post some pics as to how they turned out. Also have the engine in and getting the exhaust DP modded to fit the new turbo as we speak. So should be well on my way tomarrow. I really like how the black block looks doesnt make the little things stand out as much. I prolly should have checked out the other colors, but i figured I couldnt really go wrong with black. Well see soon. Not to bigg of a deal to have it changed anyway. Just takes a long time. Anybody used the do-it-yourself powdercoaters, like waht eastwood sells. Ive always wanted to try one but didnt know if they really worked. -Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest szlash280z Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 I bought one of those, from harbor freight. I never ended up using it because I didn't have any HEAT sources. so I returned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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