Synlubes Posted January 4, 2004 Share Posted January 4, 2004 After many hours thinking how, I got bizzy and fabbed / installed (what turns out to be) a decent cable to unlatch my hatch. So I no longer have a button/lock on the hatch. Used the hood release cable from my car. (I have a hood pin) Mounted it to the side panel behind drivers seat. Just open the drivers door, reach in and pop the hatch. SWEET I`ll give some more details on the mod in a bit. Going to take some pics tomarrow and see how they come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 4, 2004 Share Posted January 4, 2004 Please! This is something I'm considering from my hatch so I can remove the last two Dzus fasterners on the hatch, so some photos would be nice to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted January 4, 2004 Share Posted January 4, 2004 sounds like a very cool mod, i would assume you had to move the mechanism to the bottom to make this work? maybe its already like that on later models but i would assume not if you have a button on the hatch. i will definately keep this idea in mind for my next project. thanks a ton for sharing! -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 5, 2004 Author Share Posted January 5, 2004 I have pics that I took, but they need to be developed. I will post them as soon as I get them back. Cable Pull Hatch Latch Here are some details on my cable operated hatch release. It is the first prototype, so things may change. (although, it works very well) Please note that this is open source information. Anyone with other ideas on making this mod, please update this information. Parts used - A stock 260Z hood release cable. (other cables am sure will work, I just had the hood release cable laying around so I used it) - Remove the interior hatch cover panel. - Remove the clip holding the hatch lock button and remove the lock button. - (With the lock button gone, you can now see down in to the hatch and view the lock mechanism). - (looking at the lock mechanism, thru the hole in the hatch) * Note the flat pad on the topside of the latch mechanism. - Remove the 2 bolts holding the latch mechanism in place. - (on the top side of the “flat padâ€) I made a center mark and used a drill bit to make an indent for the cable ball to rest in. (did not drill thru) - I cut a slot thru the center of the pad to the center point I had marked. - I then drilled a whole for the cable to come thru the hatch. - (with the latch mechanism in place) I just sighted a hole under the center of the “flat pad†on the latch mechanism and drilled a whole just large enough to allow the cable housing to pass thru. *** Very Important *** make sure you drill this whole in the hatch behind the seal surface, so the cable does not come in contact with hatch seal when the hatch is closed. (you can easily see the seal area marks) - Bring the cable up thru the hole drilled and back out the latch whole. (having about 3 inches of cable out of the latch whole) - Put the cable into the slot cut in the “flat pad†and crimp it. (I used vise grips to crimp the outer end on the “flat pad†to keep the cable from coming out) *** Important *** (DO NOT crimp until everything is working and you are ready for the final install) - Push cable back down thru its whole as you put the latch mechanism back in place. - Mount and adjust the latch mechanism. - Reinstall the rear hatch interior trim. - I used 2 small clamps to align and mount the cable in the interior. - I mounted the “cable pull handle†on the side panel just behind the driver’s seat. *** Important *** (the hatch needs to be open to determine the mounting location of the cable pull handle) That should give an idea of where to start if you care to do this mod. Doug Any ?`s, e-mail me valubes@yahoo.com . Click the Z Pics link in my sig for pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 Doug, this sounds just like something I'd like to do in the near future. I'd really like to go to barrel locks on the doors and shave the lock completely on the hatch--that'd look super! I have been thinking about where to locate the lever, but you just solved that for me! Many thanks for all the details too. I am going to an aluminum gas door from an Eclipse and if it requires a cable, I might just use the lever for the choke, heh. Please follow up with a few pics if you can and add them into the thread/link them to the host site/album etc. Thanks again! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 Your conversion sounds great. But doesn't VB sell a rear hatch release cable kit. I know it is always better to do it yourself, so kudoos to you. Can't wait to see the pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 I was thinking the same thing as Zackb55. If the actual lock mechanism is inside the hatch, how can you run a cable from the floor to work the mechanism? You'd pull the whole cable out when you open the hatch! We better wait for the pictures on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 Yah... Im confused on that one too.. gota see those pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 I think the cable is run up into the hatch, and then down the side of the car next to the seat area. This way you leave everything in it's stock place and you are just Modding the latch device to work via cable, not button. Right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted January 5, 2004 Share Posted January 5, 2004 i think it might be possible to use the cable if you had a belcrank with a hook (like a hood safety latch) that catches the lock mechanism's pad when you close the hatch. When you pull the cable, it pulls down on the hook. All this stuff would be exposed, with the hatch open. I'm sure there would be a way to enclose it, after development. BUT, here is one thing where I would probably use an electric solenoid. Sometimes "breaking the rules" gets something new & useful to happen... To thing is, You just gotta know when to break the rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 5, 2004 Author Share Posted January 5, 2004 Hopefully this will clear things up some. The hatch lock button (on the top of hatch) is gone. The cable goes thru a hole I drilled in the hatch (not the body). The hatch latch mechanism nor the striker plate has not been moved from there original location. The only modification was to the latch mechanism. I should have the pics up tomarrow, hope they come out well enough to see things clearly. Maybe reread the info I posted ealier along with this info, hopefully it will make it a little more clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 7, 2004 Author Share Posted January 7, 2004 Here are some pics. I had 2 rolls that I turned in for processing, but only got 1 of my rolls back and 1 of someone elses pics. I called the photo center and the other person had already called about having the wrong pics, so I will get my pics tomarrow and post them up. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/valubes/my_photos or Click the Z Pics link in my sig for pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe17 Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 it all makes sence now.... beautiful work.. and some good thinking... i have a thought though. maybe to make it look a little bit cleaner how about runing the wire up the inside of the hatch (up the side of the glass.) untill you hit the top. then drill a little hole up there so the wire can exit the hatch and place the leaver accordingly. im just brainstorming thats all. very cool mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 Good work, Doug. Much more convenient and cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 7, 2004 Author Share Posted January 7, 2004 Everyone keep in mind that this is just the first prototype. I`m sure with all the minds at work here, this could turn out to alot better and more pleasing to the eye. The cable has to have some slack so the hatch can be opened. Now, running it thru the hatch itself is not something I had thought of. . . yet. Thanks for the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zachb55 Posted January 7, 2004 Share Posted January 7, 2004 well that looks like it probably works quite well, i have been doing some work on my rear hatch's opening mechanism recently too. mine was just missing the thing that went from the lock to the pad that released the hatch... hopefully you understand what i mean?!? anyways, what i originally thought you meant was that you had reversed the locations of the bar and the mechanism somehow, maybe with one of a different year or make/model. That is what i want to do, have something that will open from the bottom and just have the bar on the actual hatch which would close into the mechanism. i guess my idea is just a much more difficult way of reaching the same end result. the only advantage of mine i would think is just to make it cleaner and less running cables through tight places. but i would rather have your setup then have to fab up all the parts it would take to make what i was thinking. has anyone else done something like this before? any pics of the mechanism itself? great work by the way! cant wait to see the end product, do you think that cable will be long enough to run through the side of the hatch if you decide to go that route? great work! -Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 8, 2004 Author Share Posted January 8, 2004 I added a couple more pics. Most of the second roll pics were not very good. New Z car pics up also. Click the Z Pics link in my sig for pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 Instead of fooling with the lock mechanism, why not just hook up the cable to the striker bracket? Having the cable stick through the body &hatch could get bent up, so You'll need to protect it- looks unsightly. If you just take out one bolt to let the bracket swivel (essentially) and cut one side off so you have a bracket with a pin pointing to the side, you would just have to hook up the cable to the bracket to pull the pin away from the hook. Maybe even build a new bracket with a tapered hook to pull out easier. Or beef up the bracket/pin that's there (how much load is on that hook?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 What about using an electronic trunk cable puller motor? Could you bury it inside the hatch? Then you could just run wires out of the hatch up top like the defroster mechanism... and put the relay and switch wherever you want it. (also letting you tie it into a car alarm) I've been looking at an electronic solution for mine... I'll see what I can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdmz Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 The hatch lock button (on the top of hatch) is gone. What did you use to cover the hole in the hatch??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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