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Header Kits... Anyone Build their own Headers???


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Guys, in doing research, I've come across several kits out on the market for building your own setup... Since I weld... I'm just wondering how difficult these kits are to kit and weld up???

 

Any info or personal experiences would be great...

 

Mike :D

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dozens of times, simply because its mandatory if your doing engine swaps like installing a 392 hemi in a pontiac GTO, if nothing else youll learn to weld and fabricate

heres what I do,(keep in mind the exhaust system after the headers effects performance to a large extent too, so Id advise a MINIMUM of an (X) of collector dia. mounted close to the collectors to ballance flow and reduce back pressure if its possiable to install one

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm

 

http://www.majer-tech.com.pl/Exaust_Theory.htm

 

http://www.btinternet.com/~mezporting/exhaust_length.html

 

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/flomstr1e.htm

 

http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=8&s=127&p=608&searchtype=ecat&l=FLO

 

flo-c158218234.jpg

http://www.headersbyed.com/chevsbv8.htm

 

http://www.stainlessworks.net/Header%20Flanges.htm

 

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20Flanges.htm

 

http://www.headersbyed.com/hdrkits.htm

 

http://www.cachassisworks.com/header.htm

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/fabricators.htm

 

Ive tried to stay out of this but I might as well jump in and get involvedIve done this many times its not that hard. heres what I do, get some of that plastic smurf tubeing in the 2" dia size and some ceiling hanger wire and some of that hard set constuction insulation foam. now weld 1" stubs of the exhaust tube to the header flange exhaust ports and bolt it to the cylinder heads. clamp the collectors to a 6 foot section of 2x6" wood and jack it up solid under the car (collectors not touching the car anywhere)to position them where you want them under the car, now cut (8) sections of smurf tubeing too about 36"-42" long(theres a formula to figure the exact length)slide 4-6 pieces of ceiling suspension wire in each tube with the ends looped over inside the tube. now startin with the upper inside collector position and the rear exhaust port, bend and fit the smurf tubeing to fit, the next forward exhaust port goes to the lower inside collector port the next exhaust to the upper outside collector port and the furthest forward to the lower outside collector port , once they are all bent to fit shoot the tubes full of hardening construction foam, let it harden and then pull each individual tube off one at a time and duplicate it in steel tubeing,(or have your local muffler shop duplicate it) this method REALLY makes the fit and try time minimal. and assures equal length tube headers.SMURF TUBE is flexable plastic electrical conduit thats normally BLUE or ORANGE and COMMONLY called smurf tubeing by contractors its a plastic version of that metal GREENFIELD tubeing that electrical contractors use but its cheaper and easier to work with, it resembles a canister type vacuum cleaner pickup hose but stiffer, its available at big hardware stores,and electrical supply houses dirt cheap in 10' lengths about $6 each or les you will need (3)BTW the 4-6 wires act like rebar in concrete, the loops keep the wires from moveing in the foam while their incased in the construction foam, the hard plastic foam is what keeps it stiff and no it will not be exact you will still need to tweak it to get it to fit but it will speed up the process of making the tube pattern shapes. just keep in mind that you can buy headers fairly cheaply (under $300 in many cases) for most cars its when you go and get an odd ball combo this comes in handy, like putting a 502bbc in a 57 vette or a 392 hemi in a 63 falcon, or you need headers for a LS1 in you 67 camaroHERES INFO YOU CAN USE

MergeCollectors.jpg

 

MergeCollectors.jpg

bbflanges.htm

,...USE THE CALCULATOR PROGRAMS THATS WHAT THEY ARE THERE FORand keep in mind the displacement and rpm levels effect the dia. and length of both the primaries and collectors, these MUST VARY IN DIA. and LENGTH TO MATCH THE ENGINES EXHAUST PULSE TIMEING so that a NEGATIVE PRESSURE WAVE WILL BE CORRECTLY TIMED to SCAVAGE THE CYLINDERS EFFICIENTLY at the desired rpm range

if you want other temps look here http://www.convertalot.com/downloads.html heres a quick cross check http://www.btinternet.com/~mezporting/exhaust_length.html http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#Header (

(btw its not((Degrees ATDC)they mean subtract the BBDC from 180 degs. then use the answer and the rpm level should be picked for the expected torque peak http://www.prestage.com/carmath/calc_headerlength.asp [

or if your really lazy http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm

and the answers in meters (about 39"=1 meter

example , my 383 vette has a cam with exhaust cam timing that opens at 83degs bbdc, thats 97 degs atdc, http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=119661&B1=Display+Card

Bore: (Inches) 4.03"<BR>Exhaust Valve Opening Point: (Degrees ATDC) 97 degs

Peak Power RPM: 5500rpm Calculated information appears below

Header Pipe Diameter: (Inches) 1.84"<

Header Pipe Length: (Inches) 37.65

Collector Diameter: (Inches) 3.5

Collector Length: (Inches) 18.82

 

http://store.yahoo.com/exhaustpros/hustxpi.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

btw

 

 

these should be considered MINIMUMS

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I have bought products from a local company in Rancho Cordova Ca. Specialty Design Products. They have anything you need in either stainless or mild steel. I'm not sure if they have a website but their address is:

SPD

11252 Sunco Drive

Rancho Cordova, CA. 95742

916-635-8108

e-mail specpro@msn.com

They have a free catalog that lists all of their items.

Mike D

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Since we seem to have constant problems with the steering linkage interferance' date=' has anyone modified the linkage to get aroung the header issue???

 

Mike[/quote']

 

I'm pretty sure the SBF guys have to mod their steering by adding a bearing and another universal joint...

 

Tim

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Since we seem to have constant problems with the steering linkage interferance' date=' has anyone modified the linkage to get aroung the header issue???

 

Mike[/quote']

 

i used a spare steering shaft and moved my steering towards the block i made a plate that held a heim joint and the steering shaft that i welded to the tc rod mount. one thing to remember though MAKE SURE THE SHAFTS ARE PERFECTLY STRAIGHT!!!!! after all that work i hop in the car and turn the wheel only to find it binding... one of the shafts i used was from my car before the accident but i never even thought to check to see if it was true. id take pics but you can barely see it because of my header

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