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Haltec E6x


fl327

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Finally bit the bullet and purchased Haltec E6x for my turbo car. I would have bought the system from a vendor here but the spot I got it from is local and will be hooking me up with some dyno time, plus support is five minutes from the house-will be looking for other things in the future though I havent forgotten you.

 

Will be using z31cas in s130t distributor to fire ignition and set initial timing, going to 370cc inj and a t04e 60-1/.58.

 

Looking to make 300rwhp and be able to wreck hard in the 1/8 mile, a cv axle and modified phantom grip 3.90 is in the works soon as well. I know of one other person locally with the setup, but wanted to see how many people here are running the haltec and could give me feedback on how they like it?

Also had some questions:

Does anyone know what the wires from the distributor go to, I believe its four wires, green, white, black, and red?

 

Once I get the system I should have it running in a day or two ideally, and have it tuned in a week or so, initially I will be running the 370s and the t3, later on I will using the t04e and a tial wastegate.

I finally decided I dont want a z for a daily driver, I want a reliable 3day a week race car with ungodly STANKONIA.

 

I tried to do a search for haltec, but the search function is down.

Sorry if I sound like I drank too much coffee, Im pretty amped about this setup and wanted to know what others have experience with the haltec systems. Ive been fighting with eccs and z31 eccs and have got them running reasonably well as a daily driver, but like the ability in customizing fuel and ignition curves, plus I want the knowledge of setups like this for future projects.

I really cant wait to be able to dial in a car with a laptop...

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The wires from the distributor go into the wiring harness- Sorry I couldn't resist! actually they go all the way to the 300ZXs brain which controls the ignition also.

My 1986 Nissan 300ZX service manuel shows the following

BW (black with white stripe) is shared system voltage(switched battery) and goes to the brain on pin 35. It also powers AAC valve,EGR solenoid,idle up solenoid, and air mass sensor

B (black) does not go to brain- it is just a ground connection

GB (green with black stripe) signal out to brain pin 17

GY (green with yellow stripe) signal out to brain pin 8

A shield system exists inside wiring harness(basically a conductive sleave around all 4 wires which is connected to a seperate ground- reduces interferance from other EMI sources IE secondary ignition wires)

The two signal wires will have different rates of change on them. One will make 6 "signals" for 1 complete distributor rotation(2 complete engine rotations) and 1 of the signals will be longer then the others (marks cylinder #1)

The other wire will have 360 signals per complete distributor rotation. I don't know which one is which.

The Nissan manuels diagnostic procedures check for power at BW, ground at B with ignition switch in on position and at connector disconnected from dist, continuity when you cross GB and GY at connector and infinite resistance between the wires when the dist is pluged in (readings take from ECCS pins for these two wires). If this doesn't fix the problem Nissan suggest replacing the dist (let's throw parts at the car, maybe it will fix it!).

Both signal wires can be tested with a wave pattern DVOM or a scope.

Many stand alone systems expect a signal at each cylinders TDC and a single seperate signal to mark cyl 1. Most probably won't work with 2 degree signal that the 300zx dist puts out. It might be possible to change the outer rings signal (the 360 slit ring set) by blocking off 359 or cutting out the ring and spokes but leaving 1 'spoke" intact to provide the #1 signal. Try blocking holes first. Maybe you system can detect the longer 1 of the 6 and all this is not applicable.

Look at the wires beyond the first connector- harness side to apply this info for your dist.

Often Nissan (and others) do not continue the correct color code in short harnesses connected to componets.

The factory manuel does show where these wires fit into the oval shaped connector-page EF&EC 50-51.

Guess I'm not with it- what does STANKONIA mean-just leave out any unpostabe words.

Hope this helps

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try a 81 zxt dampener with a zxt crank pick up.from what i have read the haltech will read the 81 crank angle sensor.i am looking at efi systems but what i dont like about haltech is that it has no onboard driver transistors for ign coils.the 81 zxt dampener has 90 teeth.that = 4 degrees per tooth.if you knocked out 2 teeth at 56 btdc it should work .other things i have heard is changing the wheel in the 82/83 zxt distributor to z31 300zx wheel.i have a spare crank 81 crank angle sensor with mount.would like to come over to sf when you get it done and check it out.if you dont want to build a fuel rail try bosch # 0 280 150 036 or 0 280 150 042 injectors.the 036 injectors a the mercedes 4.5l injectors .the 042 were on a 6.9.a buddy runs the 036 injectors on his 510/turbo l28.the 036 injectors are oem on my mercury outboard.can give you a link for those at $60 each new.going to get 1 of theses for sure-goto http://www.innovatemotorsports.com a 5 wire o2 sensor/data logger cheap.

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Aux- Currently im running the late 5 speed with a 3.54, too wide for me, probably good for autox, I want car to go fast in 1/8 mile, right now car doesnt get into power fast enough for me. I will give up the lower ets so that victory can be mine once again. Im also expecting the bigger turbo to lag a bunch, might not get full boost until 32-500, I need to get there faster as well.

 

Randy, my buddy who used the distributor mounted cas system with the 300zx crank wheel did have troubles on the first go around, he had to have the ecu sent back in to fix it, and after that it was fine, so Im hoping I dont have that issue. I did specify to the haltec people what I would be using for crank sensor though. I want to keep it looking close to stock, and try to keep it simple at the same time. Just got fed up with the efi setup im running now, just doesnt work good enough for me I guess. I hope to be able to get the car to fire up in one day, from what ive seen there isnt a whole lot to it besides mounting the gm sensors, the initial cas installation and distributor wiring modifications, and of course making the plate for the tps, I am going to use their generic looking tps to simplify things. Thanx for the injector advice, I got lucky over the past two weeks and liberated five svo mustangs and thunderbirds of their injectors, which I have to send out soon to have cleaned and checked out. I cant wait to see what a full bar of t3, and a cleaner map is like. Of course, when its done Ill hit you up to come check it out, Im doing my reading and what not getting ready for the package.

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fl327-i have a 60-1/stage 5 t3 turbo in my car hooked up to a scotty down pipe with factory 81zxt injection.some times it pulls hard and sometimes it doesnt.car does not run consistant like a new car at work.1 of the injecor hoses is leaking a little so its time for a major rehab.i run a 3.7 lsd -i like the gearing but i drive on the freeway at 80 a lot.i have tons of stuff scrounged from work.like a 6 cylinder coil pack from a explorer and a complete engine harness with coil-on-plug coils from a 2001 4.6 liter truck.never can have enough connectors/injector plugs.most modern cars havent run distributors in years.watch out on your injectors.83 to 86 turbo coupe ran 30/lb .87-88 and svo ran 36/lb.some guy on ebay has new 2003 cobra injectors for $230 a set.supposed to be 39/lb.if the cleaning cost too much i would go new.less what ifs to chase on start up.

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Guest Chris240turbo

I'm running a Haltech E6K, with a Z31 trigger wheel in a 280ZXT distributor, with 550cc injectors and a small t-3 turbo (plan to upgrade soon) I have no experience with the E6X, but the K was easy to install and tune, so if the X is similar, I could prolly help you out, I did keep some notes on which distributor wire goes where and such, I'll have to go out to the garage and dig them up, I'm also using an MSD 6A ignition box and blaster coil, this setup has proven to be very reliable over the last couple of years.

Let me know if I can help you out, I also have an 81 damper / CAS setup if you're interested, I was going to use it for a 3 coil / wasted spark set up, but as well as the distributed set up works, I doubt I ever will.

 

 

Chris

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Getting ready to install weeknights this week.

distributor is ready to go. I have relays for fans and fuel ready to get integrated into the x harness. Battery is charged im ready to get dirty.

wondering what you guys did for ignitor? My buddy runs his off a msd box?

 

Randy-I know what you mean about the sometimes it goes sometimes it dont. Ive had 40k+ miles driving it, but this past month the harness just wanted to go to sleep or something. Pulled the harness out three times and reinstalled it, I finally fixed it, but in the process ECCS lost its job...

 

Definitely appreciate the help and ill post pics later this week or next week whent the car should be running. Ive got a map from my buddy who is running same setup, 370cc inj on a 2.8 motor, so I should be in the ballpark shortly and try to fine tune on the dyno next week.

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the haltech software can be downloaded for a person to play with from thier website.its dos and i am not a big computor geek but it can be figured out.haltech has igniters for 1 to 3 coils on its website.3 coils=waste spark system.if you run a distributor you could probably run a 81 to 83 zxt ignitor and coil.since i work at a dealership as a tech i see toothed crank wheels on a lot of cars.i have wanted to use the toothed 81zxt crank wheel to see if i could make it work with a coil-on plug ignition system-no spark plug wires needed.since those zxt ignitors are just a power transistor i am thinking about just trying some stuff from radio shack and building a 3 channel ignitor box.

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personaly i run a msd 6a

it was quick and easy to set up

connects directly to the haltech so there is not need for the tach adapter...

or you can use the haltech ignitor

if you down load the programs off the net you will only see a few of the features because most of them are used on line only.

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