search function being down really sucking... info on JWT ECU

[Guest bastaad525]

And yet another option shows up for me to mull over....

 

 

just wondering, what all is involved with installing one of these? I'm assuming this would be the 'easiest' swap out of doing an SDS, Megasquirt, Z31 swap, or JWT ECU.... what all needs to be changed along with the ECU itself to install the JWT? I'm guessing just the AFM or can/do you keep that? How well does the JWT work? What exactly does it do, just run different fuel and timing curves? What's the going price?

[Guest bastaad525]

called JWT... the guy was kinda rude so didn't get a whole lot of info from him... well I got the price... $595 for just an upgrade ECU. Supposedly it is a direct plug in... nothing at all needs to be changed... I thought the wiring had to be swapped around to run one of these? Or is that for the one that runs the Mustang MAF?

 

He couldn't give me any numbers as far as what kind of power increases or whatever that customers have seen from this upgrade.... any of you guys switched over to one of these and dynoed? I guess he's saying all it does is modify the timing and fuel curves "to the optimum curves that can be used with 91 octane fuel, allowing you to run more boost" Funny... i'm already running more boost on stock EFI and 91 octane he claimed this would allow me to run up to 14psi with an intercooler... again... thought I could already have done that... well.. I am not deterred still want to learn more about this upgrade. Can anyone give me more info?

[SleeperZ]

Lockjaw and JeffP know more about the JWT than I, but it is a Z31 ECU that has been reprogrammed and rewired internally so external rewiring is unneccesary. I imagine it can still be quite the job to install and make work (De Schmadee had some trouble), but in theory should be easier than swapping a factory Z31.

[yo2001]

it's as same as swapping Z31 ECU. the wiring to the MAF is little different that's about it I think.

[Guest bastaad525]

The JWT rep SWORE that it was just 'plug in and go' that NO wiring needed to be changed on the stock wiring harness. I believe this is just a reprogrammed 280zxt ECU. The one from the Z31 is the "450 hp" setup, which also needs the larger injectors and the Mustang AFM, if what I'm reading on their website is correct. I think that was the one De Schmadee was having trouble with.

[SleeperZ]

The JWT rep SWORE that it was just 'plug in and go' that NO wiring needed to be changed on the stock wiring harness. I believe this is just a reprogrammed 280zxt ECU. The one from the Z31 is the "450 hp" setup, which also needs the larger injectors and the Mustang AFM, if what I'm reading on their website is correct. I think that was the one De Schmadee was having trouble with.

 

If it still used the AFM flapper, I wouldn't go there. For just a little bit more $, you can get a good EFI.

[Lockjaw]

Don't use the stock one, you need to get rid of the AFM.

 

In a nutshell, the JWT set-up I am running, (Jeff's is more advanced) is an 89 300 ZX ecu (NA model). You have to swap the number 1 and 5 injector wiring at the ecu, I believe, add dropping resistors inline on the injector wires, and get at the fuel pump relay under the dash and cut and ground one wire. This is the hardest part.

 

You buy a brand new cobra MAF and plug from ford, its very easy to wire in, you install the chopper wheel from any V6 Nissan 3.0 liter in the ZXT dizzy, plug in and go. Oh you have to unplug the detonation sensor.

 

You can get way more advanced, for instance, the set-up uses a 420cc injector, you can run the standard 3 bar fuel map, or a 4 like I do. They can also add programs to it, like one for race gas, dry NOS control ( am going to get that one), and adjust your reve limit, mine is at 7k right now.

 

The maf should be at least 16 inches away from the inlet to the turbo.

 

Personally I like the JWT stuff. It is not as good as a stand alone, but drivability is way better then stock. I will also say until I see someone run some really good numbers from a Mega squirt to avoid that one.

 

You can see what I run. The old time was on a 3 bar fuel map, the new turbo time is a 4 bar map, and I did not get to play with it much before the headgasket gave up the ghost.

 

I think I have way more left in the car, I have fuel to 26 psi with the turbo I have, so who knows. I probably don't have enough clutch to get up there, but the car flat gets down on the interstate when the boost is up.

 

Once it is back together I will run dyno it, but it made 307 corrected hp to the wheels here, it was about 299 uncorrected on the old turbo, and the exhaust, while 3 inch, left alot to be desired, I corrected all the issues from it this time around. I expect to get mid 300's or better.

 

 

Look don't take this the wrong way. Going fast costs money, and there are plenty of ways to do it. Sounds to me like you want something better then just stock, and if you do, pony up the money and do it right the first time, it costs way more to do it and then redo it.

 

Get the full on JWT set-up, or a standalone and be done with it. Either way, you got to spend some money, get larger injectors etc. Installation of the JWT set-up is very straightforward, I was up and running in a couple hours.

[Lockjaw]

(De Schmadee had some trouble), .

 

Hey I don't want to flame him, but he did not do the installation as he should have. You really need to have some good technical expertise and familiarity with wiring, soldering, and all that to make it work, if not you need to pay someone to do it.

 

If you choose to install one, just PM and I can help you with the issue's. Its not that hard, you just have to be patient, and if something doesn't work properly, take some simple readings with a volt meter before calling them.

 

I was one of the first people in the US running the set-up, actually I was the first 5 speed car, the development car was an Auto. So I have spent alot of time on the phone with them working on it. Its really a nice system, but if you install it, and have problems and cannot communicate with them on their level, well you are going to have a tough time. They don't have time to educate you.

[yo2001]

Don't use the stock one' date=' you need to get rid of the AFM.

 

 

 

Once it is back together I will run dyno it, but it made 307 corrected hp to the wheels here, it was about 299 uncorrected on the old turbo, and the exhaust, while 3 inch, left alot to be desired, I corrected all the issues from it this time around. I expect to get mid 300's or better. [/quote']

 

So when are you going to get it running

[Lockjaw]

I don't know, I am not motivated.

 

Hey what are you doing here, this isn't hybrid DSM?

[yo2001]

 

I can work on yours

 

email me fishing season starts soon 8)

[fl327]

In my case, the harness itself was an issue for me, I fixed it three times in two months, the last time I pulled it out of the car and found my short from a loose pin inside a molex connector. Got car running ok, and yanked every last piece of ECCS out of the car. I got sick of the drama and threw my afm far far away. I am a cheap ass, but the 1k+ I spend now means that the road I can run any injector, make my own fuel maps, and a world other possibilities in my quest for that REAL S#17. JWT was out of the question for me, I do like the system, but I got so sick of re soldering and repinning my harness that I packed it for shipping before it sold! Basically, liquidating my ECCS component storage paid for a good portion of my Standalone, as I am turning my back on the ECCS stuff out of pure spite. Good management is a good investment I think, and in the long run, youre bound to spend more money on your car elsewhere. It is the most money Ive spent on the car yet, and Ive decided to take my time on the install of the turbo and efi setup-and then Imma come back out and WRECK...

[Guest bastaad525]

there's a good chance my harness has problems... some bugs that I've chased and chased that really can't be anything else. Man I agree with a lot of your sentiment I have ALWAYS disliked the stock nissan EFI, this is my third Z running it and it never runs 'perfect' for me. That's why I so happily switched over to SU's. But at the same time, creating an all new harness to run some all new programmable unit... that's a lot of variables, and given all the bad luck I've had so far, it just seems like a recipe for blowing something up... too much stuff I can and probably will f**k up. Can't help that I'm a bit afraid to try it, and still just running the stock EFI because... hey... it's buggy, but at least it starts every day and isn't making stuff blow up. That's why something like the JWT or Z31 swap appeals to me... not much needs to be changed and I still get some performance increase. Not a whole of of options out there that fit that bill. I certainly can't afford to pay some shop thousands of dollars (I think the going rate is about $1500) to make a new wiring harness from scratch and install an SDS or Tec or anything like that.

[Lockjaw]

The SDS comes with one, as do most standalones, you just have to add some connectors to them.

 

I was looking at the SDS, interesting stuff. Maybe worth exploring.

 

You would like Z31, it is light years better, and so is the JWT. The difference in just plain old drivability alone makes it worth the swap. That is what I noticed right off the bat.

 

Anytime you get rid of that stinking door in the AFM, its a good thing. Imagine your exhaust having to go out that. Same concept.

[Guest bastaad525]

Here's a really goofy idea (of which I have plenty) why not tap some holes, maybe four or five holes, 1/2 to 1", in the flap of the AFM, but still leaving some good amount of surface area there to catch air, and then loosen the hell out of the spring to let the flap move much easier and compensate for all the air that is bypassing it? Always been tempted to pick up a JY AFM and try this.....

 

 

 

damn I'm a cheap bastard

[jeffp]

I am running most of what lockjaw has on his car. He bought my turbo from me my last upgrade.

I was able to pull 413 hp and 473 foot pounds of torque on the dyno my last run with the system. The car moves, no question about it. I get very good gas mileage @ 30-32 mpg and the drivability is very good in town and racing.

I like the system because it is still the Nissan unit and it produces power.

 

You use the stock harness (turbo) and make the changes to the fuel pump relay wiring(the stock 280 ECUfed 12 volts to the relay, the 300 feeds GROUND) you will need 7 ohm resistors in line (series) with the injector wires from the ECU and switch #2 and #5 injector wires for better performance (clark said most guys dont notice the difference but that is the correct thing to do) The ford MAF is 4 wires, 12 volts, 2 grounds and one sensor output wire. (They have the MAF connector for about 10.00)

You need the 300 chopper wheel installed to tell the ECU where #1 TDC happens, the 280 chopper doesnot have the ability to do that.

So they really have a complete package for 350 hp and 450 hp(I was able to get 500Hp at the crank)

New developments here the last week:

I have been working with Clark on a 72Lb program for the system, yes that is correct 720cc injectors. I got the flow data on the MAF and Clark is working on the program. THAT FOLKS, will push my car to 600hp at the flywheel easy, no problems. The ford MAF will scale to 1500CFM, plenty to run that kind of hp. So that is what is going on with the upgraded system.

I have instralled a turbo that can push about 35psi of boost, that is aboput 10 psi more then my old turbo, so if I can run 35psi of boost, we are looking at more then 600Hp. So that is what is happening.

[Lockjaw]

Geez Jeff. I hope the head stays on.

[Guest De Schmaydee]

yep...i dont think youre talking about the ecu that most people on here are referring to. i dont think "that" ecu will do for you what you might be expecting...prbly not $595 worth. much better to get something else that will really make a big difference (i dont think this one will).

...havent worked on mine in a while but i pretty much have most of the bugs out of it.....

........from the people i've talked to (and posts i have read) about 3-4 out of the 10 people i've seen posts from get their jwt ecus to work well enough to be pleased w/them.... lockjaw,jeffp and i think codyzxt have all had real good luck w/them seems like there was one other guy....the other 6-7 guys didnt have much luck......but this is "other" ecu.

the best jwt ecu's are not plug & play. (i have doubts that the one youre talking about is too).....i was also told that and a bunch of other stuff that just wasnt true.

they are made from 15+ year old ecus out of junked cars (nothing necessarily wrong w/that) as long as there's nothing wrong w/the one you get. they test them but clark will be the first to tell you they can have bad ones pass their tests.

most of the probs i had was because the core mine was made from was defective. they replaced it w/ an upgraded 4bar ecu at no charge....(once i was able to get some help from clark).

youre prbly talking to ben....dont do it... he gave me a lot wrong info and advice ....cost me a lot of time,money and frustration..

i wouldnt talk to anyone but clark and the guys here who have gotten theirs to work.

when i got the new ecu 99% of my probs went away....i still have some surging probs at times, but the car runs like a bat out of hell. all things considered i dont think i'd get one if i had it to do all over again. they are a lot cheaper and easier to put in if they work.....but there's not much you can do w/them if they dont....

if you live close to jwt and can take your vehicle to them, they can certainly get it tuned for you.... but the main reason to get one of these is so you dont have to do something like that...

imo fl327 has the right idea ......s

[SleeperZ]

New developments here the last week:

I have been working with Clark on a 72Lb program for the system' date=' yes that is correct 720cc injectors. I got the flow data on the MAF and Clark is working on the program. THAT FOLKS, will push my car to 600hp at the flywheel easy, no problems. The ford MAF will scale to 1500CFM, plenty to run that kind of hp. So that is what is going on with the upgraded system.

I have instralled a turbo that can push about 35psi of boost, that is aboput 10 psi more then my old turbo, so if I can run 35psi of boost, we are looking at more then 600Hp. So that is what is happening. [/quote']

 

Damn! That sounds excellent. BTW, if you have to push that much boost, monitor your intake temperature. 35psi, efficient or not, will be HOT HOT HOT.

 

And "600hp at the flywheel easy, no problems" is a figure of speech, isn't it, Jeff? How can 600hp from a 3 liter engine be no problems???

[Lockjaw]

He didn't say how long it would make it, HAHA.

 

 

Schymedee, glad you got yours situated.