Brad-ManQ45 Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 I agree w/Tim240Z. I would also like to throw out for everyone's consideration, that aside from a rollbar, subchassis connectors and strut bars, what else can be done to stiffen the unibody in torsion and bending (both horizontally and longitudinally. I was thinking/hoping of something not as intrusive as a cage in the drivers' area - geared for street - not track. Is it possible that some shallow c-channel could be applied to good effect as long as the interior is gutted? Perhaps KatMan might chime in here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 I am using the 8 point kit from S&W (I can see Katman's eyes rolling now ). My car is definitely not a daily driver, and it IS a PITA to climb in and out of. With the steering wheel on, it's almost impossible. Now with the detachable steering hub, it's bearable...pics on my site. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 The S&W 8 pt cage, if you are any taller than me you'll want the center bar set to the back like Tim's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 The more I think about the cage and what I will be using it for..Mainly weekend drag racing plus the usual cruising around town, I am thinking to just go 6 point and have a good quality set up installed but no over kill Thanks for the insite, idea's and imput in general!! I am looking at getting into the high 10's for the 1/4 at best! But maybe easier to stay in the 11's Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Agree with TimZ and the dreaded trauma bar syndrome. BTW is it really 2 degrees celsius where you are, right now its around 35 celsius and over 80% humidity here, at 9am I was sweatin like a pig. Think I'll move to somewhere cooler. Anyway, after some considerable research my all behind the driver half cage has been designed and is nearly finished. It has been specifically designed to minimumise rear end twist, as indicated by the Z squeaking rear plastic condition. So if it works I'll do some pics in due course, if it doesn't, well....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 BTW is it really 2 degrees celsius where you are, right now its around 35 celsius and over 80% humidity here, at 9am I was sweatin like a pig. Think I'll move to somewhere cooler. Yes that's probably right. Actually it has warmed up considerably - it had been more like -18 to -7 degC here since mid January. Actually, I've been in Phoenix, AZ this week on business, and the temps have been more like +25 degC - I'm thinking that I'm just not going back home (maybe just long enough to ship the Z out...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 The photos above are not of a cage. That's a roll bar with forward braces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 right, I only posted the pics because there was some discussion of S&W kits. I was not looking for an SCCA or NHRA approved setup. Just something to maybe stiffen the frame a little. This is more a daily driver car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 Thought the following might be of interest, an extract from some comments by a Marc Sayer. Who is/was some sort of US Z guru? Anyway, here it is - "...yes it (a rear strut bar) is a good idea, as is a roll bar which is also tied into the rear strut brace. Cary mentioned the interior creaking, most every Z owner has seen the crack in the roof between the rear quarter windows and the hatch, up near the top of the hatch. This is where a factory seam is and the body flexes so much at this point that it cracks the lead filler the factory uses. You can hear the body flex at this point from inside the car, the plastic interior panels creak and squeak every time it happens. The reason for this is the car while stiff from the seat forward, and in the area of the rear strut towers, has a weak zone in between these two areas, and the seam that cracks is right in this weak zone (my emphasis). By tying the stiffer front zone to the stiffer (rear) strut tower area with your roll bar you will significantly stiffen the chassis in this area....." One man's opinion but makes sense to me. There is a bit more but two finger typing....................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 I decided to have Smiley's here in Dallas Do the semi cage. After reading some of the posts I realized 10 points was probably not the way to go for me. I opted to go the more conservative route and safer for the head route and am doing the 6 point type kinda of like Scottie's set up but with out the door swing bar just the door bar. Car is supposed to be ready by wednesday, friday at the latest. So see you at SE4 meet Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 I decided to have Smiley's here in Dallas Do the semi cage. After reading some of the posts I realized 10 points was probably not the way to go for me. I opted to go the more conservative route and safer for the head route and am doing the 6 point type kinda of like Scottie's set up but with out the door swing bar just the door bar. Car is supposed to be ready by wednesday, friday at the latest. So see you at SE4 meet Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 Well picked up the 240 from Smiley's out in Dallas. The 6 point felt a little tight but ok for fit. After I got her home I proceeded to take the seat/drivers side out and found the front nuts tight but the rear barely on and the seat was barely in the floor bracket. The seat when put all the way down in hits the harness bar and makes it near impossible to sit in for me. I am 6' 1" so I am screwed where the seat fits now. I am going back on monday and have them take the harness cross bar out and put one in with a bend on both ends so the seat can sit back properly. Hopefully it will go smooth as so far they have been great. I put it on the Visa card so if they balk then I can dispute charges. What a day and SE4 is just a few days away. I got to get going fast!!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 Here are some pictures of my cage/chassis (maybe its a roll bar with a lot of forward supports). http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=lastup&cat=0&pos=2 http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=1&pos=4 http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=3&cat=0&pos=4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 I wonder what it would cost me to get a tube front end like the above one. I really like how thats set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 The entire chassis (cage sub-frame and front end) cost the following: Tubing (4130N) from ChassisShop 552 inches of 0.120 wall x 1.625 270.00 240 inches of 0.083 wall x 1.625 72.00 60 inches of 0.083 wall x 1.625 22.20 432 inches of 0.065 wall x 1.625 120.96 6 bends (4 in main hoop 2 in front legs) 140.00 24 ft of 2.5 x 2.5 x0.085 wall mild steel square tubing from Coleman racing ~80.00 ~100 hrs of autocad time trying to design the whole thing (Free) ~350.00 of TIG welding (welding done by a friend so I got off cheep) ~100- 200 hours cutting and fitting tubes using a tube notcher and mitre saw. Removing undercoating, soundproofing, building a wooden fixture (yes wooden 2 x 12 and 3/4" MDF), painting the interior and firewall, etc... many hours The looks you get when people check out the finished product.....PRICELESS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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