BillZ260 Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 350 Chevrolet Steel Crank, Hi Dome TRW Pistons, 461 casting heads w 202/160 manley swirl flow valves, roller cam and lifters, dial quad tunnell ram w/ holly carbs, mallory dist & accel coil. $1500 I am going to see if they will sell it minus the tunnell ram, if it is clean, should be a decent buy. Otherwilse, will have to resell the ram and carbs, no biggie, but would be easier to do without. What do you guy's think. It's been awhile since i have delt in SBC stuff. Any questions or comments I should make to see if they know what they are talkig about, and make sure I don't look a fool? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 Hi dome pistons are going to give you a high CR. With cast heads you want to be around 9.5 CR 350s did not come with steel cranks, find out what brand crank. 461 heads are 327 fuelie heads. Make sure that engine is a 350 and not a 327. Early 327s have stock steel cranks, and 461 heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 Ok, I taked to the guy Friday, said he didn't build it but the guy that did said it was a 350. He didn't know the make of the crank either. I asked about the comp, he sais 12:1! BOOST? Anyway, said he would probably take $1K for the motor w/ out the tunnell ram set up, motor comes COMPLETE! Starter and alt, and other bits mentioned. This is huge plus for me as I don't have any of that stuff and I am sure it would add up. SO, is it worth it to buy, pull the pistons and put some flat tops or something like htat? Or do I try to run 100 octane fuel for a while and see what I can live with. I really need an engine and I think this is my op to get all the parts in one shot. OPINIONS? Bonus, it is local and he will help me move it and stuff like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 12:1 CR is very high for a street engine! You won't be happy using 100+ octane every time you want to go somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 So is it worth pulling the bottom end apart and putting in some flat tops or should I keep searching? I think this is what I want, just not the 12:1 comp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 If the engine is in good shape it might be a pretty good deal. But like you said above you would have to pull the pistons and go with something to bring you down to the 9.5:1 mark. Also, you NEED to find out what kind of cam the engine has. The cam is the heart of the engine and you may want to change it out. Also, keep in mind you really dont know what kind of shape the heads are in. A lot of people just put in new valves call them rebuilt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 From talking to the guy that owns it now, it is a full race motor that is just too much for his project. He has build another engine already. If I have to change the roller cam to a lesser perf spec, do you have to change out the lifters too? or can they stay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 From talking to the guy that owns it now, it is a full race motor that is just too much for his project. He has build another engine already. If I have to change the roller cam to a lesser perf spec, do you have to change out the lifters too? or can they stay? They can stay as long as the cam is the same type ( solid or hydraulic ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 Sounds like this is doable with a litte work on my end. I will look at this week, maybe tonight and check it out. If pistons and a cam is all i need to tone this dude down, then I am not too worried. I am just not wanting to buy the motor and spend another grand making it streetable. Is there anything I should look for, this thing will be totally assembled. I will ask about the heads, but won't expect much, as this guy didn't build the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 They can stay as long as the cam is the same type ( solid or hydraulic ) I am not contradicting you, I just want to make sure I have my facts strait. I have always understood that you should always replace the lifters when changing a cam because of their wear patterns. Is this old thoughts, bad information? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 you should always replace the lifters when changing a cam because of their wear patterns I think that pertains mainly to regular lifters, these are roller, no wear pattern. RIGHT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Right, With a regular hydraulic, solid cam you HAVE to change the lifters when swapping cams. But with a roller cam you don't have to change the roller lifters as long as it's the same type of cam, solid or hydraulic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 I'd check Grumpyvette's posts about matchin cam to compression... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 9, 2004 Author Share Posted March 9, 2004 OK, looked at the motor last night right after work. Guy bought a ford 5 window coupe done in the 80's most likely (based on pics), so the motor has got to have some miles racked up. Things just didn't really add up so I am not getting it, just some observations that turned me off. Paint peeling on block w/ some surface rust. Paint prep not important?? Coil Wire on dist pulled off, left the connector in the cap! Carelessness Secondaries on BOTH carbs wired shut!!! Um, he said he wanted better gas milage. Rememer this is a full roller w/ twin 650's on a tunnell ram and had 12:1 comp, who's worried about gas milage w/ that set up!?!?! And he said he could run pump gas, which leaves me to beleive that is was either not 12:1 comp, or he was just lying to me.... So I guess I will keep on looking, I might be looking for the deal of the century but, hey, i am what i am. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeech Posted March 14, 2004 Share Posted March 14, 2004 Jeez, what do you want for a kilobuck???? A little paint coming off the block is no big deal, wired secondaries? People do dumb things all the time. Someone didn't notice the bit off the coil wire got left in the distributor cap . . . carelessness? What's that got to do with anything? I think you should get someone who can find their ass with either hand to look the motor over for you as perhaps you don't have enough experience to recognize a deal (not saying it really is one mind you) when it's in your face. You did mention it came with accessories (distributor, starter, alternator, brackets, water pump, etc.) didn't you? This all adds to the worth. As for the crank being cast or steel? Look at the part line, if it's sharp the crank is cast and if it's about 1/4" wide it's forged. Look at the end where the flywheel bolts up to I.D. whether it's a 327 or a 350 crank, etc. There are plenty of books and websites with pictures to help you. Common fella, being picky is smart, but what you cited for reasons don't make good sense! I mean you make a sweeping statement about having miles racked up because the thing was built in the 80s? Sheesh, I put about 3-4k miles on my hot rods cars a year (at best) and my use isn't that atypical . . . that motor might only have 20-30k miles on it (if that much) and it's good for 100,000 or more! You might be letting a great deal get past you just through a lack of experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Jeez, what do you want for a kilobuck???? A little paint coming off the block is no big deal, wired secondaries? People do dumb things all the time. Someone didn't notice the bit off the coil wire got left in the distributor cap . . . carelessness? What's that got to do with anything? I think you should get someone who can find their ass with either hand to look the motor over for you as perhaps you don't have enough experience to recognize a deal (not saying it really is one mind you) when it's in your face. You did mention it came with accessories (distributor, starter, alternator, brackets, water pump, etc.) didn't you? This all adds to the worth. As for the crank being cast or steel? Look at the part line, if it's sharp the crank is cast and if it's about 1/4" wide it's forged. Look at the end where the flywheel bolts up to I.D. whether it's a 327 or a 350 crank, etc. There are plenty of books and websites with pictures to help you. Common fella, being picky is smart, but what you cited for reasons don't make good sense! I mean you make a sweeping statement about having miles racked up because the thing was built in the 80s? Sheesh, I put about 3-4k miles on my hot rods cars a year (at best) and my use isn't that atypical . . . that motor might only have 20-30k miles on it (if that much) and it's good for 100,000 or more! You might be letting a great deal get past you just through a lack of experience. John, you need to tone it down a bit! Maybe this engine is not what he's looking for. Sounds to me with what he wants, this engine would have to be totaly rebuilt. So why pay 1k just to rebuild it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Hey Bill, How much are you looking to spend? If you shop E-bay for internals source a block, crank and heads, land a few "deals" we could put it together ourselves, I'd be willing to give you a hand we could knock it out in a reasonable time frame. It's just having all the parts avalible at once. I've got an engine stand and all the tools to do it. Let me know. OR go offer that guy $400 for what he's got but don't pay over $500, we can tear it down and see what internals she's got and go from there. Slap a new set of piston and rings, fresh bearings, mild cam in there and go. jbeech, Chillllllll...... ds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Bill, I commend you on your ability to walk away on a 'deal' that might not be all it seems. If you think the owner was lying about one thing, it probably wasn't all he way lying about. God knows what you might find once the engine is opened up. And attention to detail is necessary to perform a good engine build - if the builder wasn't paying attention to plug wires and block prep, there could be MANY things inside that weren't paid the proper attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted March 15, 2004 Author Share Posted March 15, 2004 Ok, so I totally expect this tread to DIE! after what I thought was my last post. First of all, jbeech, I really appretiate your concern, is that what that was? And thanks for having NO confidnece in my observations. I was pointing out that if the guy that built the motor knew what he was doing, the "SEEMINGLY" little things probably shoudn't have been there. Simple as that, K? Also looking at the car the motor came out of, stuff just wasn't right. SleeperZ, thanks! The easy thing to do is drop the dough and take it home right? I just din't want to spend my engine money only to end up with alot of work. Dsommer, I was hoping to spend about 1000 on a complete engine running, but I think my expectations were too high. SO, I will build. UPDATE: I bought my motor this weekend. 73' 4 bolt block with 391 single hump heads. Long block only for 220 and it came with the engine stand! Couple of questions for you all. These heads any good? Casting # is 3917290, will double check that. Dunno if i should rebuild these or try to find some complete/rebuild heads that are better? Any aftermarket complete perf heads for $5-600? the pistons are flattops, with small valve releifs and have an H in the top, these Hyperutectics? Were those stock? The block is a truck block i think, though the guy said they pulled it from a 73 vette. V0718TJA is on the front id plate. Pulled one piston and the rod bearing didn't look too bad, will pull the rest and the crank to see what ALL the bearing surfaces look like. Thinking this will be a good Base for my project. I am trying to get a feel for the parts i have and what I might need to source. I am awaitng so of the books grumpyvette mentioned in another post. Will finish disassembly and read up. As far as budget goes now, dunno. Nothing exotic needed here. Would like between 250-300hp/pumpgas/drivable. If I am still being unreasonable let me know! Thanks brotherZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 For the heads, get the Vortec Head from GM Performance Parts 800-577-6888. These are the best cast heads out there for under $500. You'll need an intake made for Vortec heads, but they will cost the same as a regular intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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