jtmny1999 Posted March 14, 2004 Share Posted March 14, 2004 I Accidently Switched The the two plugs The one that goest to the distibutor its a black wire the other one is blue and it goes to this little cylinder looking think is that the ignitor?when I hooked the BW to positive and YW To - Battery teminals it sparked shorted something, so I switched it back the other way no more short but I Still Dont Have any Spark Could this have damage my computer? I then hooked it up the right way but i still have no spark Did I damage the coil or The Ignitor ? Any help Guys Thanks Alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted March 14, 2004 Share Posted March 14, 2004 You should have a black w/white and a yellow w/white running to a "T" connector that plugs into your ignitor. The Black/white should be ignition and the Yell/white is the signal wire that comes from the ECM, 20 pin molex, pin #5. Coming OUT of the ignitor is a blue and a black/white - blue goes to the negetive side of the coil and black/white goes to the positive side. Maybe it's something simple as, when you hooked them incorrectly to the battery, you blew a fuse that supplied power to the black/white going to the ignitor. I'd start checking for 12v+ there if you're wired the way i descibed. Hope this helps. Re-post if you need more help. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 My buddy is having the same issue as we speak. No spark can be a hard one I think. Swapped transistors, coils, and tested pins from ecu, all are giving power where they should be yet no spark??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Ok, i've just thought of another idea - is there 12v on the black/white WHILE cranking? If not, she'll never fire. There should be 12v in RUN and START (or crank) position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 While cranking with voltmeter on B/W it goes from 12v to 0v like its reversed or something, but the wiring wasnt touched prior to testing?? Weird one I know. Everything else checks out fine except for that, we even did the resistance checks and the start signal test in the fsm, ask me again why I went Haltec? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayAreaZT Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Is that the black/white going into the ignitor or out to the coil. I know the coil is not seeing 12V while cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Guess i'm helping FL327 on this thread since jtmny1999 hasn't responded on to whats going on. O'well. Anyway, not sure what year your working with FL but, if it's an older Z, it had two black/whites. One supplied 12v while cranking and the other supplied 12v while in the RUN position. The one Blk/Wht which supplied 12v while cranking went directly to the coil. The other Blk/Wht that supplied 12v in the RUN position went to a ceramic ballast resistor which dropped voltage down to 8-9v which supplied the coil and protected the points. The coil and ignitor should see 12v during crank and RUN if your not using a points setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 15, 2004 Author Share Posted March 15, 2004 Igot Spark Back BECAuse I took the - Wire from the battery to the YW connector that goes to the ignitor is started for like a second but then it Died I guess my injectors and working because My fuel pump is Am really having A hard time so I thing ama go to the junk yard and get the dash harness and hook everything up together like the stock 280zx turbo Plus now I Cant even crank the motor I It did for a while with a new starter but yesturday it wouldnt grab anymore so I think I left the Spacer from the flex plate because it was auto before but am not sure. It shouln't be that far from the motor right ________ This is About how far it is from the motor housing were the flywheel starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 The Yell/Wht wire going to the ignitor should never go to the neg side of the battery. It's the signal wire coming from the ECM, 20 pin molex, pin #5. Also, not sure how much _____ is because my screen resolution may be different than yours and honestly, i'm really not even sure what you're talking about but, the starter should be tight against the bellhousing. Your battery may be dying which is not allowing the starter to spin up fast enough to engage with the flywheel. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 OK, I am a little embarassed to submit this link but here is how I documented the wiring I did during my swap...It may help you. http://hvmp.com/dc/TurboZ-WiringDiagram-DRAFT-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 16, 2004 Author Share Posted March 16, 2004 Thanks But I found out theres a spacer for Automatic trannys that look like its part of the crankshaft well ama take it of this weekend and plug in the harness if eveything works i should be happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Yes engines that came with a auto trans did have a spacer. You have to pull it off. Well you are there I hope you also realise that you have to install a "pilot bushing" in the crankshaft. The pilot bushing holds the tip on the transmission input shaft steady. Go to any local parts store to get one. It's just a small brass bushing that can me bought for like $1 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble zee Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 I had the same problem with my turbo swap when i first did it. My problem was that the crank sensor was corroded... i put it on, and nothing.. turns out it wasn't reading cuz it wasnt close enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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