Jump to content
HybridZ

What do you think is the best?


zeeboost

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at buying an a/f monitor to help me tune my carb, but I'm not sure which would be the best one to buy. I searched through the archives, but all I found were people saying that they used their a/f monitor, but not which one they had. I wanted to go the fuel injection route, but due to financial limitiations, I just bought a Holley Street Avenger 670, and am in the process of tuning it. All I know right now is that it's running very rich, and the secondaries aren't opening up...?

 

But anyways, in your opinion, what do you think is the most accurate a/f monitor? The only ones Summit offers is from K&N and MSD, but I'm sure there's more out there than just those two. Thanks for the help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really don't know much about tuning a carb with a a/f ratio meter.

 

But concerning a/f ratio meters:

 

I realy like the ones by Defi

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2471316919&category=46100

 

They are the only ones that I know of that have an analog display ( needle and scale). The rest are just flashing leds.

 

I am not using one myself but I dont think that one can be better than the other. Just buy the one that looks the best to you. They are all simple voltage meters. And none of them are very accurate in displaying you real a/f ratio. They are however very good at indicating if you are runing rich or lean. How rich or lean is can not be told with these meters.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, even though I’ve never used one, I always figured an a/f meter would be the best way to go to tune the carb. I remember reading that they tell you if the car is running rich or lean, but I didn’t know that they couldn’t give an accurate reading of it. I thought about getting an a/f gauge, but I figured the aftermarket monitor would be more efficient. I remember searching through these archives and I found somebody who bought a Holley Street Avenger 770 brand new, and said that it ran like crap and that he had to use his G-Tek to find the most efficient jets for primaries and secondaries that would get him the best a/f ratio. Maybe I will just buy a gauge and mount it in the car. Thanks for the post – does anybody else have a suggestion, or for that matter any other information on a “G-Tek”? I know of the Gtech, but not the G-Tek…? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I used a narrow band for two years. Better than nothing.

 

If you are on a tight budget, get a narrowband sensor and gauge. It will help.

 

If you have the money, I also reccomend the PLX wideband. Don't forget that you don't need a gauge with this one because it's built into the controller. Plus, if you don't like it, they have good resale value. Or, if you ever go programmable EFI, you already have a good sensor to use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a narrow band for two years. Better than nothing.

 

If you are on a tight budget' date=' get a narrowband sensor and gauge. It will help.

 

If you have the money, I also reccomend the PLX wideband. Don't forget that you don't need a gauge with this one because it's built into the controller. Plus, if you don't like it, they have good resale value. Or, if you ever go programmable EFI, you already have a good sensor to use.[/quote']

 

I am not trying to start a fight or anything, but tuning with a narrow band sensor and the AUto Meter AFR Meter, or equivalent, is worthless. It makes some nice light show, but you are net getting the correct #s that you need, other than Lean/Rich.

 

If you go with the M-300, you do not need a Meter/Gauge face, it has an LED readout on the unit itself. The unit is about 1/4 DIN and can be put just about anywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree Taffy.

 

When programming Megasquirt for the first few times, I sometimes had trouble telling the difference when the AFR was way too lean or way too rich. The narrow band measurement did help in this case. For any other measurement, it is pretty much useless like you said.

 

After I installed the PLX M-300, I found out how wrong my butt dyno and narrow band tuning was. 16:1 AFR at 500RPM, ouch. One of the members here sells the M-300 for approximately $310 including shipping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...