2126 Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Hey guys, does anyone know the source or who the fabricator is for the half cage, shown in our gallery on page 3. The cage looks like a well thought out design and it doesn't attach to the wheel well sheetmetal. I would be very interested in purchasing a unit like this for my 1970 240Z. Can you help me out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 If you are talking about my cage, then maybe I can help you out. I am currently making a bolt-in / weld in version of my cage for one of the other members on HybridZ. Depending on how well it goes, I may try to make it available to others. Specs: 1 5/8" x 0.120 wall chromoly tubing (TIG welded) Connections at outboard seatbelt mounts (will allow use of stock belts or race harness) and top of strut tower. Diagonal in main hoop Bars from top of hoop to top of strut tower. Bars from side of hoop to top of strut tower Bar between strut towers. Swing out/removable door bars. The best part is that it will be almost fully assembled (no or little welding required). NHRA and SCCA approved. I'll have Branden's done soon, then I'll have a better idea what to charge. Here is a picture of my cage installed in my car. Branden's cage will be based on mine except it will be removable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 SCCA approved Check to be sure. I know the SCCA does not approve door bars with just a roll bar in the GCR and I don't think they allow them in the Solo 1 rule book. The door bars would be fine with a full cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Door bar will be removable. I consulted 2004 National Solo rules: For Solo II Paragraph 3.3.2 states that rollbars or cages must satisfy the criteria of Appendix C or section 18 of the GCR. Here is my interpretation without quoting the rules (copyright), For our cars, 1.5 x 0.120 or 1.625 x 0.095 DOM steel. At least 2 braces to control fore and aft motion of the roll bar. I interpreted this to mean 2 minimum. Correct me if I'm wrong. Suggested transverse brace (diagonal) For SoloI, I consulted Appendix J Said essentially the same thing but allowed provisions for Alloy Steel 1.750 x 0.120 for mild steel 1.625 x 0.095 for Alloy steel I am in the process of making this roll bar, and I want it to be as light, as tight fitting, and as functional as possible. Any critique will be graciously accepted. The intended function of this bar is to provide safety and additional chassis support for the SoloI, SoloII and track day competitor. This is a bar not a cage, and does not satisfy the requirements of SCCA club racing or NHRA cars running quicker than 10.99. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted July 26, 2004 Author Share Posted July 26, 2004 74-5.0L-Z, First off, thanks for your prompt reply. The rollbar design, in the photo you provided in your post, looks very good and I would be interested in it as well. However, the rollbar on page 3 of our gallery includes supports that rum from each side of the hoop down to the center tunnel, just in front of where the rear interior deck begins. Is this in fact one of yours 74-5.0L-Z? Anyway, nice work. My application for the rollbar is for a street car Z, with multiple suspension modifications and only a small amount of engine mods. I would just feel much better with a nice rollbar...if you know what I mean..............and I think you do! 2126 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 I guess you could argue that the door bars are forward braces in Solo 2. As tech inspector I would try to discourage folks from doing this because of safety issues on a side impact. What's to keep the forward mounting of the door bar from pushing inward on a side impact? The floor pans are not strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 The door bars are going to be tied into the floor pan and also vertically onto the rocker panel. I plan to make the joints where the bars are removable such that buckling will tend to be outward. The joints will satisfy Figure 3 or Figure 4 on page GCR-156 or Figure 9 of page GCR-169. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 2126, I believe that the cage you are referring to belongs to 260DET. He did some very nice work, and my only concern with his design is that is has too many bends (scca only allows 4 for a total of 180 +/- 10 degrees), and that his driveshaft tunnel diagonals don't allow either seat to recline. With my design, I can fully recline the driver's seat, but not the passenger seat. I am not speaking badly about his work (It's beautiful, and I like the mounting tabs), but I just chose differently. If I had mine to do again, I would make some improvements. In fact Branden's cage will see some of those improvements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted July 27, 2004 Author Share Posted July 27, 2004 Thanks for the insight on your rollbar and also on Branden's. I'm running a set of Sparco seats that do not recline, so that's not an issue for me. I think either of the two designs would suit my purpose just fine. If you have information regarding a price and availability, it would be sincerely appreciated. I will search for Branden's info too! Thanks again, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I am very interested in your cage, just one question, how much does the diagonal bar restrict the recline of the passenger seat. I have some fairly tall friends, around 6'5'' do you think that they will be comfortable in the passenger seat. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Share Posted July 28, 2004 ZERO, Sorry but this is not my rollbar. I'm just inquiring about the one in the photo on this post. I've been looking for some time now for a unit that does not bolt to the rear fenderwell, you know, the ones made by the outfit in San Diego and sold through MSA and other such Z parts outlets. I want one that ties the main hoop to the strut towers and to the floor board area. I knowt the fenderwell mounted units are approved by a number of racing organizations, but I've also heard that over time, with relatively stiff suspension, that the attach points tend to fail.....sheetmetal begins to crack. NG!!! Of course the safety issue is a prime concern but I also would like to have the benfit of chassis stiffening with out a full cage. Hope this clearafies things for you..............I think we're in the same boat, so to speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Zero, With my rollbar installed, the passenger seat can go all the way back, but not recline in that position. The passenger side of these cars has tons of leg room. I am 6'1" tall and with the seat all the way back on the passenger side, I cannot touch the curved portion of the floor where it meets the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 5.0l_z, If that is the case, then I would very much like one of your cages. I plan to replace my floors and frame rails in the next few weeks and would like to do the cage at the same time. Now, I know you are still in the early phases of this project so I understand if you can't make one quickly or at all; but if at all possible, do you think you could bend me a main hoop like that one with some measurements for the rest of the cage, because i dont have access to a mandrel bender. It would save me alot of time, and I would be very appreciative. Thanks, Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 I found a picture showing the passenger side of the rear half-cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 IMHO the half cage by 74_5.0L_L is nearly as good as mine No seriously, his door and side bars add extra strength and protection, good thinking, a nice piece of design and execution. As for having two diagonals meeting at the back of the transmission tunnel like mine, it seems to work very well but was a real bitch to make. I had to weld in a raised pad on the tunnel for the cage to mount on. To do that commercially would add a lot of cost plus make it a lot more expensive and time consuming to instal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 13, 2004 Share Posted August 13, 2004 5.0l_z, Any progress? I am dying to get a cage like yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted August 15, 2004 Share Posted August 15, 2004 Zero, I received the tubing for BrandenZ's half-cage last week, and have bent his main hoop and made the plates for the top of the struts. This coming week I'll borrow a friend's 240Z and do the final tube fitting before I take it to the welder. I'll probably be working on this cage for another 2 or 3 weeks, then I'd be happy to build others. If all you're interested in is the main hoop, then let me know and we can work up a deal. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted August 15, 2004 Share Posted August 15, 2004 74 5.0L Z How much would you be charging for the built cage? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 15, 2004 Share Posted August 15, 2004 well as i have recently found it exceedingly hard to find cromoly tubing in my area, I would be willing to buy a complete, unwelded set of tubes and plates maybe, just to save you trouble and shipping costs. I can weld everything together myself, but it would be nice to have everything be the right length and all first. just give me a quote for the tubes and such whenever you get a chance. No rush, as I probably won't be doing my floors until the winter anyway. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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