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Which set of Wilwoods to go with?


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Hopefully, in the next two weeks I'll be getting a set of Wilwood calipers. These are going with my JSK brake upgrade that's been sitting in the bedroom floor for the last 3 months. I've pretty much narrowed it down to either the Forged Superlite Caliper or the Billet Forged Superlite Caliper. I was hopeing one of you guys with some real experince might help me make a decsion about which is the better caliper for my application. The car is used as my daily driver that I've drag raced a few times and thought some autocrossing or a track day might be nice in the future.

 

http://www.behrents.com/Merchant2/4.19/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BPW&Product_Code=WIL120-74xx-xx

 

http://www.behrents.com/Merchant2/4.19/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BPW&Product_Code=WIL120-5xxx-xx

 

I couldn't get the tags to work on the screen so you'll have to copy and paste the links. Sorry.

 

Also any suggestions for a good set of street pads?

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I did some more research and found this info about the Dynalite version of the Wilwood calipers. I'm sure the same merits that make the forged caliper btter for the Dynalite would apply for the Superlite aswell. Not only that they are 40 bucks cheaper.

 

What is the difference between the Wilwood Billet Dynalite Calipers and the new Forged Dynalites?

Many of the calipers on the site shown are the Billet Dynalite Calipers. The calipers that we are now providing in many of our kits are the upgraded Forged Dynalite Calipers. These calipers are new from Wilwood (well, they have been out for a few months), and since their release, we have been using them in place of the Billet Dynalites in our kits, and when sold separately. The great thing about these calipers is that they are the exact same in dimensions (piston sizes and outer dimensions), but they are much stronger. The forging process makes them a lot more rigid.

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When I was looking into this I found that the cast Dynalites are stronger and less flexy than the billet ones (this coming from Wilwood directly). At that time the cast Dynalite was the most rigid caliper of that size that they had. I'm not sure how it relates to the new forged one.

 

The Superlites are bigger heavier, and carry a larger thicker pad. You probably don't need the huge pad given your intended usage.

 

I'm going to use Superlite II's up front and cast Dynalites in back. The Superlite II's are drilled for bridge bolts to hold the pad vs a cotter pin. I haven't bought pads yet, still mulling over which to get. Regardless of which way you go, I'm sure it will kick the crap outta the stock system, and it doesn't sound like you'll be running them hard enough to have probelms with either.

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Cody - We must be on the same wavelength....as I have had my JSK Wilwood adapters from Juan since the beginning of summer and this week I am going to finally order everything for the install.

 

I forget what calipers Afshin used on his Wilwood set-up, I think he is back from Vacation next week, I will have to bug him.

 

Let's compare notes on this one, if you don't mind?

 

Yasin

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Im getting ready to order every thing for the swap myself Ive had the jsk stuff for awhile also. I am going with the us brake calipers. Just doing the f22i calipers. I really want to do the f88i calipers but they are out of my price range :( definatly overkill for me but they look sweet. Behrents has the best prices on the U.S brake calipers also. I just need to make sure I know what lines and fittings to buy. Ive got everything else down. Thanks guys

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For a daily driver/drag race/autoX car the Dynalites will do all you need. If you're gonna open track the car much, the Superlites are the stuff. I track my car a lot at a track that's very hard on brakes, CMP, and even hammering them enough to get the rotors looking like this:

 

pic%20003S.jpg

 

the cast Superlites are still looking for more.

 

John

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Well, with the JSK kit your locked into the Superlites.

 

I'm looking at the added weight (superlite vs dynalite) and larger pad as being better able to handle the everyday stress of the daily grind. It's not like my brakes get a workout every day but, as my power to weight ratio goes down the stock setup hasn't been able to keep up the way it needs to. It basically brakes (no pun intended) :lol: down to the power ratio of a C5 Corvette with late 70's brake tech. Not that it hasn't served me well but, my needs have gone past it's design requirments.

 

jt1 What kind of heat does it take to turn rotor into the cracked up pieces in that picture?

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i have the NDL Superlite ones. there lighter and still have big stopping power.

i did alot of research when i picked out what calipers i wanted, and i picked the Dynalites 1st but the mounts didnt match up to the JSK caliper mounts.

so i spent more money and got the superlites that everybody told me to get in the 1st place.

 

mike

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Cody, I have no idea what rotor temps I'm seeing on track. I've thought about getting some of the temp sensing paint and putting it on the rotors to see what the temps are. A fellow with an infrared heat gun shot them at 600* after a cooldown lap and pulling in the pits. The cracks are more a function of the number of heat cycles rather than the ultimate temp. That pic was taken when I pulled the rotors off and swapped on new ones, I thought those were shot.

 

John

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Cody,

I've got the forged Superlites with Juan's kit on the front. The forged units are the only ones Willwood is making now. They are replacing the cast ones. FWIW - forged is stronger than cast which means less deflection over time.

Also, evidently the tolerances stacked on my installation because I have a huge shudder on my brakes. I'm going to have the whole stack-up turned to eliminate the run-out. Be advised that this may happen and don't let it ruin your day.

Bill

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i did alot of research when i picked out what calipers i wanted, and i picked the Dynalites 1st but the mounts didnt match up to the JSK caliper mounts.

 

I know Cody is probably ending up with Superlites, but I just want to clear up the confusion. The Dynalites have a 5.25" bolt spacing. The Narrow Mount Dynalites have a 3.5" bolt spacing. JSK's caliper mount has a 3.5" bolt spacing. So either a Superlite with a 3.5" bolt spacing or the NMDL will work. There was a guy who even posted a pic of Dyanalites mounted up when I was trying to figure this out.

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Hi Cody,

Your choices for the 3.5" mount as already mentioned are the discontinued superlite IIa (some places may still have some in stock), the new forged superlite and the NMDL. The forged units replaced the IIA and are stiffer and better, so no reason to get the IIA. The NDL is smaller as the name implies (narrow mount), so good for small wheels, otherwise it uses smaller pads than the forged superlite, so I would not get the NMDL as my first choice.

I also spoke with a multitude of technicians at wilwood and other sites and got a very uniform recommendation for the forged units. Off course, any of these calipers will work great, so you really can't go wrong. I smile everytime I bring the car down from high speeds.

Lastly, like Phantom, I had excessive shudder when I first installed the set up, I had to check twice to make sure that nothing was loose.

Bedding in the rotors properly will be very important for this set up, much much more so than in stock pads/rotors.

 

There are several nice articles on brakes on this link: http://www.stoptech.com/technical/

 

Also read the article in there called

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System.

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Also' date=' evidently the tolerances stacked on my installation because I have a huge shudder on my brakes. I'm going to have the whole stack-up turned to eliminate the run-out. Be advised that this may happen and don't let it ruin your day.

Bill[/quote']

 

Bill,

First thanks for the F.Y.I.

 

Second. Are you saying that your going to have the whole hub assembly turned? Please let me know how this turns out. Maybe we can get the all the bugs worked out and turn this into a sticky for future info. All of this is bound to come up again.

 

 

jmort. Thanks for the info on the Dynalites I'll look into these aswell.

 

 

Afsin,

 

Thanks for the link. I've had it or one like it saved on the computer for some time now. (been looking forward to this for awhile) One question I have directly for you is what sizes are needed for the adapters for the brake hoses? Do you install them dry? ie.. no teflon paste or anything. Right?

 

 

As always thanks for the info. everyone.

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I put my adapters on dry (without teflon ..). no leaks

I needed two M10 X 1.0 female to male adaptors and two 5-3 steel brake line union fittings. I got them from portefield with my pads (they knew which fitting to get), the porterfield part numbers are 410103 and 481503.

 

I also got the R4S pads, which are great on the street and have been holding up quite well on the track, at least with the large brake kit (I believe they might just be so so for aggressive track use with the stock set up). I will get the same pads again.

Also another significant benefit of the porterfield pads for the wilwoods is that they have them for the rear stock 280zx calipers, the same is not true for the other popular pads that I looked into (hawks, wilwood..), so you can get matching front and rear pads.

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