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Still overheating :(


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guess I am just stupid. I know all of you are smater, younger and pretter than I, but why do you make it so complicated.
:confused: Where did this come from? :confused:

 

Yeah, he may need more cooling capacity, BUT since his set up is not that far off from quite a few others who are not having problems, than that means he must have some other problem.

 

I haven't heard much talk about the 1 speed Tarus fan, so I would do like quite a few others and get a 2 speed unit that is properly shrouded. Running a can or two of radiator flush through the system could not hurt either and get a new radiator cap if you haven't done so already.

 

If this doesn't fix it, I would look into adding an oil cooler and a larger radiator.

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I'm running the taurus two speed fan on my V8Z and really never have a use for the high speed setting. My car (240Z) has a griffith radiator and aluminum high volume water pump.

 

All this did not keep the car cool two years ago as I didn't get a real good seal around radiator support on car and the radiator itself. I put foam packing around the radiator and support to maintain a tight seal.

 

Also I have drilled out holes around the Thermostat. Three small holes to allow some coolant to pass thru regardless of operating temps.

 

Make sure the fan is pushing or pulling in the right direction! Check wiring as someone had earlier mentioned I believe.

 

Good luck!!! Mike

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Guest Anonymous

Try running the car with the back of the hood slightly open to exit air. After reading multiple posts what works for some does not for others with no absolute solution in sight It is amazing that with all the cooling combinations... some work and some do not .Why can some people run a stock Datsun radiator with a SBC and have no problems? I still maintain a theroy that air needs to exit the engine compartment by way of vents or a cowl since the hot air cannot get out fast enuff. Those plastic louvers on the 280's are not cosmetic but functional and Datsun placed them there for a reason...... and that SBC is one wide blockage for exiting hot air. Seems this subject will be re-visted many times until the V8s run out.

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I dont think anyone said this but I had the same prob. My pulleys were wrong. My pully on the crank was way to big and made the water pump turn way to fast causing the flow to circulate to fast etc...once I changed the pulley to under drive it works fine...just a thought!

 

CorZette

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Steve,

As mentioned above, check to see if the output of your thermostat housing has a ridge, or flange for the rad. hose to bite against. The cheaper ones sometimes don't and with the smoothness of the chrome, the clamp may not be able to hold it on tight enough.

Maybe just pick one up from a JY to try the theory. it won't cost you much at all.

Tim

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Just thought I'd add something. Your engine? You said it was rebuilt recently? Have you gave thought to the possiblity that an old freeze plug could be partily blocking your water passage? I have seen this happen before. Where someone pounded the old freeze plug into the engine and couldn't get it out/or forgot about it. Then built the engine and wondered why it was overheating. twak.gif Just my 2 cents...ok ok, I'll go back to the Ford forum. Anyway, good luck! cheers.gif

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Well I discovered that one thing several of you guys pointed out was correct... My lower radiator hose was collapsing. I couldn't get a spring for it so I put a length of PVC pipe inside the hose after triple-checking that it wouldn't melt. I also boiled my thermostat to be sure it's working properly and opening at the right temp (it is). So that problem's solved... it is kinda funny... my temperature goes up and down. Sometimes I will be driving and it will stick at an indicated 180 for the longest time, and then it will go up to 210 and stick there. Like today I drove up a long hill and it stayed at 180 and on the way back down with the car basically idling it was at 210? It stayed at 210 until i brought it home and never moved even when I let it sit and idle for 5 minutes. I dunno, I just wish it would pick a temperature to sit at and sit there without ever fluctuating, it makes me nervous :(

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Guest Anonymous

I paid over 15 bucks for a lower radiator that I had to cut 30 % off and no spring came with it. I had to supply the spring from an old hose. No spring---- PVC pipe will work since it is now a danger to transport compressed air in according to OSHA

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PVC won't melt, but the hot water will disolve it into a thick slurry that will gum up your engine.

 

The problems with PVC pipe and hot water is well known. They use to refer to PVC plumbing as "class action" plumbing because after several years it disolved resulting in hundreds of class action lawsuits. Believe me, I know. My water heater had a PVC dip tube that dissolved, plugging the WH relief valve and eventually causing several water leaks throughout my house.

 

Modern houses use CPVC. It is something different made specifically for hot water.

 

Get a proper radiator hose before you trade one problem for a much worse one!!

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Are you sure that gauge isn't shot? Me and my friends use those lazer type temp readers, just point and click like a gun.

 

Pretty darn accurate readings, my gauge says 200 and the three readings I got were between 200 and 204. Took temp readings from thermostat housing radiator and water pump inlet.

 

Just a thought, might help you find out if gauge sucks!

 

Mike

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Tell me where I can find a hose that will fit my car that has a spring already installed.. because I searched for a LONG time to find a hose that fit my car and I am not looking forward to narrowing down my search to a hose that has a spring and also fits my car.

 

Also, I am sure my gauge works.

 

Guys, I'm really sorry I can't answer each and every of your ideas...one of these days I will get around to it, I promise. I don't want anybody to feel that they made a helpful contribution that went unadressed and ignored.

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