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Cross drilled rotors can't be turned?


Guest jjohart

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Hi, I'm in the Boston area and two shops said I need new pads/rotors, that my existing ones are near design limits in terms of measurements (18.5?), and that the rotors are warped. They've only gotten 10K miles since I put them on last October, have been off car lathed once, and the vibration felt through the pedal and chassis, the steering wheel shimmy and rubbing sound GETS WORSE THE MORE I DRIVE/BRAKE, e.g on highway, longer trips, etc.

I've been told almost universally that cross drilled rotors CANNOT BE TURNED...is this so? Others suggested cleaning the surface of the rotors, but I haven't found a shop that will bother even taking the hubs off etc, as they usually don't have the equipment, or don't want to bother sending it to AAMCO. I don't know what to do...it's a moderate but annoying thing, and I've absolutely NO mechanical ability to tackle this. If there was a convenient spray I could put on the rotors/Metalmaster pads, that's about it, but so far as I know, no one is putting much emphasis on saving my bucks, they just take one look at the rotors and tell me they're warped, but then, why does it take HEAT BUILD UP to worsen the condition.

Seems to my novice mind that it could just be the pads, being that wouldn't the heat build up on them cause this condition to be worsened?!!?

Thanks

John

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The chamfers also prevent the edges of the holes from being left sharp. Sharp holes apparently act like a cheese grater on the pads.

 

Not a big deal, the guy who turns them has to go REALLY slow otherwise the cutting bit will get stuck in the holes, then after they've been cut you need to chamfer again, which you can do in about 10 minutes with a chamber bit and a drill.

 

I've only seen cross drilled rotors turned once. It wasn't that big a deal once the guy doing it figured out he had to take of just a few thou at a time (which you're supposed to do anyway but no one does).

 

Personally I don't turn anything anymore. Just throw them away and get new rotors would be my advice. And definitely change the pads. Sounds like those pads are causing the problem.

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When I drilled my (new) rotors, I chamfered the holes to the minimum thickness of the rotors (spliting the difference on each side).

This way I will know when the rotors are at the end of their life cycle.

 

Of course they will only be cut once before I replace them with new.

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I would say it's posible, no doubt about it.. but as for cost, it'd probly be cheaper to buy new x-drilled rotors. Turning regular rotors is quick. x-drilled rotors would have to be turned a bit slower (I think..) and because of the holes, the turning would be VERY hard on a cutter.. I dont think it would get 'stuck' but if the guy tried to take too much of a cut, it'd break the tip off. Those carbide tips arn't cheep (ask me how I know.. :oops: ) Then afterwards you'd have to re-chamfer all the holes.. AND now it's a thiner rotor which will warp faster.. sure you can turn them AGAIN.. but it's just another round of time/matirials/money..

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